A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

All photos and text © Bill Hess, unless otherwise noted 
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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Sunday
Feb152009

Kivgiq - a random pull 

At the moment, I am pleasantly exhausted and lazy - far too lazy to do any kind of search or edit of my Kivgiq images - not even a superficial one. Plus, my internet connection here is very slow and, couple that with some of the awkward features of Squarespace, my host for this blog, and it makes posting images here a slow, tedious process.

Yet, to have all these consecutive posts with no images troubles me. 

So, I just plug a CF card into my laptop and grabbed the first image that came up and this is it, Robin Jonah Kaleak of the Barrow Dancers.

As for me, I finally got to bed about 6:00 AM. I woke up more often than I wish I had, but still I got some sleep and then finally got up a bit after noon.

Feeling pleasantly exhausted and lazy, I was slow to get moving, but I was also very hungry and I wanted a good breakfast, so finally I got dressed and walked over to Pepe's North of the Border Mexican Restaurant and ordered an Omelet with extra wheat toast.

It was delicious and I took my time, and sipped cup after cup as I finished off the toast, then walked back here.

The temperature was about -13 (-25 C), the wind about 15 knots and at Pepe's, there had been a fair amount of talk about the weather, about how nice it was that it had finally warmed up and was so pleasant outside.

I should do something, now, but I am much too lazy.

Maybe I will take a long walk a little bit later, with my pocket camera, to take advantage of this pleasant weather.

Thursday
Feb122009

Kivgiq begins - one random image

It is 12:18 AM Thursday morning and I just got back from Kivgiq related activities, which began at 10:00 AM Wednesday. I shot hundreds of frames today... hell... over 1000 I am certain, because there is always something happening during Kivgiq.

I do not have time to edit photos, so I just dropped my cursor into a folder on a file number and opened it up, having no idea who or what it would be. This is what it was - the drummers of the Barrow Dancers, concluding their first appearance.

Now I must do a few tasks, go to bed and be back at Kivgiq at 10:00 AM.

I can't take the time to write about it, except that it has been a great day, one of those days that reminds me where my heart is.

Tuesday
Feb102009

I hear about Chuck E. Cheese and the beautiful bracelet as I fly on Alaska Airlines toward Barrow; Barrow at -43, windchill -68

This is Allie, and the person that she is looking at with the big smile is me. She is telling me how she got to go to Chuck E. Cheese and that is where her mother, Monica, bought her the bracelet on her left wrist.

"And Chuck E. was there!" she told me.

She got a big kick out of it when I showed her this picture on my camera. It also got the interest of her mother, Monica, who takes pictures for the Air Guard out of Fairbanks.

Fairbanks is where they were headed, after a short trip to Anchorage. They have been in Alaska but a short time, having come from Maryland. Compared to their Maryland home, they find Fairbanks a bit sparse when it comes to shopping and dining activities and so they enjoyed their trip to Anchorage.

Monica is enchanted with the beauty of Alaska. Before coming here, she had thought that she would ultimately like to settle in Washington state, where she lived for a time, but seeing how beautiful Alaska is, she feels she must reconsider.

As for the miserable posture, this happened after we got half way to Fairbanks and then the pilot announced that the deicing system had malfunctioned and so we had to go back to Anchorage to get it fixed.

 

Once we returned to Anchorage, they told us it would take a few minutes to get the problem diagnosed and fixed, so naturally it took an hour or more. Of course, we had to stay on the plane and I was very hungry, as I had eaten nothing since my breakfast oatmeal.

Once, this would not have been so bad, because Alaska Airlines would have fed me a decent meal on the flight between Fairbanks and Barrow, but those days are gone.

Yet, we finally landed in Fairbanks. Allie and Monica got off the plane and other passengers boarded. One thing about flying by jet in Alaska that is different than Outside is that you always know several of the other passengers that you see. Sometimes, you know most of the other passengers.

That's Rachel to left, and Vera in the middle, from Anaktuvuk Pass, headed to Barrow to dance at Kivgiq. Vera told me the name of her tot, but I forgot. 

 

And this is Georgianna, who actually boarded in Anchorage in this seat. However, when the stewardess helped Allie to her seat and showed her mother where she had to sit, Georgianna felt bad, did not wish to separate mother and daughter, and so traded seats with Monica.

Once we got to Fairbanks, she returned to her assigned seat.

Her son, Steve, is a friend of mine and has taken me murre egg picking on the cliffs of Cape Thompson and he took me on other good adventures as well, from seal and duck and goose hunting to fishing.

Some of our adventures are recounted in my book, Gift of the Whale.

 

Georgianna is hugged by her friend, Sophie, of Kotzebue, who just boarded the plane and is headed toward her seat.

The fellow smiling at the tot is from Greenland. The tot and his dad have origins in Samoa and China, but now live in Barrow. Barrow, the coldest city in North America, has a substantial Polynesian community. 

The kid sees the light and reaches for it.

Inside the Alaska Airlines terminal at the Will Rogers-Wiley Post Memorial Airport in Barrow. Rogers and Post were killed in an airplane crash 12 miles soutwest of here.

The wait for luggage in Barrow always seems interminable. They do not put baggage out until the outgoing flight is fully boarded and roaring down the runway.

So you have to sit and wait for your bags for a full hour, at least.

 

 

 

This is Rex Nashookpuk, who did not come to Barrow by plane, but by snowmachine, from the village of Wainwright, just about 100 miles down the coast. The temperature was in the - 40's, the windchill about -70, but actually a whole lot more from the seat of Nashookpuk's speeding snowmachine.

Rex also came to dance at Kivgiq.

These are the buses and van used to take tourists touring about the local area come summer.

The ukpeagvik Presbyterian Church. Not so long ago, it was dark all day long in Barrow. After the sun went down November 18, it did not rise again until January 22. The days are still very short, but getting longer and soon the sun will be up all day long - from May 10 to August 2.

This is Anna, who lives on the east coast of Greenland. Anna came to dance at Kivgiq.

This bus will carry dancers from the many villages who have come to Barrow to dance at Kivgiq. 

Monday
Feb092009

A dog named Shadrach - the missionaries wanted him to protect them from the fire in the firey furnace, but Hobart wouldn't allow it

I now back up to January 28, when Margie and I were at my sister's house in Salt Lake City, where we had stopped to allow Margie to recover a bit before continuing on to Anchorage. The character with Mary Ann is Shadrach, her blue healer, border-collie friend.

Shadrach is crazy. Mary Ann loves him greatly.

I called him, "Hobart." Mary Ann did not like that, but Hobart did. He came right to me, tail wagging.

Mary Ann and Shadrack fight over a ball. Hobart wanted to get that ball, so that he could give it to me.

In the afternoon, I took Shadrach out for a little walk. We soon happened upon two Mormon missionaires, one named Meshach, the other, Abednego. I am not lying! I could never make such a thing up!

The missionaires were greatly relieved to see Shadrach. A really hot lady had threatened to throw them into a firey furnace if they ever knocked on her door again. They said it would be okay, if Shadrach was with them. With Shadrach, they could just walk around in that firey furnace and they wouldn't even suffer a blister.

So I told them that Shadrach was really Hobart. They got depressed and walked away. What good would it do, to get thrown into a firepit with Hobart? Whoever heard of Hobart, Meshach and Abednego walking around unburnt in a firey furnace?

Monday afternoon, I leave for Barrow. I just checked current weather there: temperature, -39; windchill, -63. The welcome will be warm and I look forward to Kivgiq, but I hate to leave Margie.

And what has happened to all my good Arctic gear, the clothing that used to keep me alive up there? It has all disappeared, or fallen apart.

I think a cat peed on my parka, and that is what caused it to fall apart.

Well, it was old and worn anyway.

But what do I do now?

Sunday
Feb012009

A narrow view of the Inauguration of President Barack Obama - Part 3 of 3: The new president is sworn in; how the people near me reacted

"That we are in the midst of crisis is now well understood.  Our nation is at war against a far-reaching network of violence and hatred.  Our economy is badly weakened, a consequence of greed and irresponsibility on the part of some, but also our collective failure to make hard choices and prepare the nation for a new age."  - Barack Obama, 44th President of the United States


To the sounds of "trumpet and fanfare," President Elect Barack Obama arrived at the Capitol building as his image appeared on the nearby Jumbotron. He looked confident and proud. The applause was loud, the shouts joyous, the people waved American flags with enthusiasm.

 

"Today I say to you that the challenges we face are real.  They are serious and they are many.  They will not be met easily or in a short span of time.  But know this America:  They will be met."


 

And there was pride - a kind of pride that many in the crowd had never felt before, had not believed they would ever feel, but now they did feel it.

Perhaps the "majority" of us cannot fully comprehend the degree of the pride that radiated from the faces of so many of the African Americans who were present, but we can recognize it, celebrate it, rejoice in it.

I, as a white American, also felt a kind of pride that I had never before experienced, pride in the fact that the country that I now lived in had become a better nation then the one that I had grown up in. The notion that such an event could ever happen could not have even been believed in the United States of my childhood.

No, I am wrong to make the above statement. At least one man, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., believed it.

Despite the almost universal acclaim given him today, I recall the attitudes toward Dr. King that prevailed in the community that surrounded me back then and that attitude was mean and derisive - and no, I did not live in the south. I lived in California.

I recall, too, how, in my community, Dr. King was mocked and ridiculed, deemed to be a dangerous man, a Communist, out to destroy America, after he spoke these words:

"When we allow freedom to ring, when we let it ring from every village and every hamlet, from every state and every city, we will be able to speed up that day when all of God's children, black men and white men, Jews and Gentiles, Protestants and Catholics, will be able to join hands and sing in the words of the old Negro spiritual, 'Free at last! free at last! thank God Almighty, we are free at last!'"

Much later, I listened to the those words and was suddenly struck by meaning that had eluded me in my youth. When Dr. King spoke of how "we" would be "free at last," he had included me, a white man who had already believed himself to be free, but who was actually bound and restrained by the limitations that a racist society imposes upon itself.

Now, on the National Mall, I recalled other images from my youth and early adulthood, images of Black Americans turning their back on the flag to raise their clenched fists in the opposite direction.

Here, I saw them clutch the American flag with pride, I saw them wave the American flag as they cheered and smiled big, I saw tears come to their eyes as they embraced that flag. There seemed to be a feeling that, finally, that flag had embraced them.

 

"Our journey has never been one of short-cuts or settling for less.  It has not been the path for the faint-hearted, for those that prefer leisure over work, or seek only the pleasures of riches and fame.  Rather, it has been the risk-takers, the doers, the makers of things -- some celebrated, but more often men and women obscure in their labor -- who have carried us up the long rugged path towards prosperity and freedom."


 

President-Elect Obama had created a controversy among many of his most dedicated followers and volunteers when he chose the Reverend Rick Warren to deliver the Inaugural address. When Warren, known for his anti-gay comments, stepped to the podium, the reception seemed polite but cool.

Yet, when he began to pray, people around me began to cry. They could not stop their tears, particularly when Warren spoke these words:

"Now today we rejoice not only in America's peaceful transfer of power for the 44th time. We celebrate a hinge-point of history with the inauguration of our first African-American president of the United States.

"We are so grateful to live in this land, a land of unequaled possibility, where the son of an African immigrant can rise to the highest level of our leadership.

"And we know today that Dr. King and a great cloud of witnesses are shouting in Heaven... Help us, oh God, to remember that we are Americans, united not by race or religion or blood, but to our commitment to freedom and justice for all."


""For us, they packed up their few worldly possessions and traveled across oceans in search of a new life.  For us, they toiled in sweatshops, and settled the West, endured the lash of the whip, and plowed the hard earth.  For us, they fought and died in places like Concord and Gettysburg, Normandy and Khe Sahn." 


When Itzhak Perlman and Yoyo Ma began to play the violin and chello, I did wonder not only how they were able to manipulate their fingers in the cold, but also how they kept their stringed instruments in tune.

It seemed impossible, yet the thought that they were bow syncing to a recording of themselves did not occur to me.

 

Some were upset about the "fakery" when the news came out that what we actually heard was a recording the team of Perlman, Ma, pianist Gabriela Montero and clarinetist Anthony McGill had made the day before. The news did not bother me. These virtuosos had faced a choice - do what they did or risk a clumsy, out-of-tune performance. How much criticism would that have brought down upon them?

 

"We remain the most prosperous, powerful nation on Earth.  Our workers are no less productive than when this crisis began.  Our minds are no less inventive, our goods and services no less needed than they were last week, or last month, or last year.  Our capacity remains undiminished.  But our time of standing pat, of protecting narrow interests and putting off unpleasant decisions -- that time has surely passed.  Starting today, we must pick ourselves up, dust ourselves off, and begin again the work of remaking America."



As an enthusiastic crowd cheers, waves the American flag and throws confetti, Barack and Michelle Obama walk together toward the swearing-in. Blogger's note, 2/4/09: This replaces a similar photo taken a short time later that went up with the original post Please note that a "click" on any photo will bring up a larger copy.

 

"For everywhere we look, there is work to be done.  The state of our economy calls for action, bold and swift.  And we will act, not only to create new jobs, but to lay a new foundation for growth.  We will build the roads and bridges, the electric grids and digital lines that feed our commerce and bind us together." 

 

 


I will let her expression describe her feelings as she watches Barack Obama prepare to be sworn in as President of the United States.

 

Joy. 

All around me, I could detect only happiness, joy and a true feeling of hope, unity, sisterhood and brotherhood between groups of people so divergent in bloodline, origin, culture and nurture.

 

"We'll restore science to its rightful place, and wield technology's wonders to raise health care's quality and lower its cost.  We will harness the sun and the winds and the soil to fuel our cars and run our factories.  And we will transform our schools and colleges and universities to meet the demands of a new age.  All this we can do.  All this we will do." 

 

After placing his hand upon the Bible of Abraham Lincoln, Barack Obama is sworn in as the 44th President of the United States. Please note the men perched on the building behind, including the ones with the scopes.

And note the trails from the jets that continually circled above.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More pride.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 "As for our common defense, we reject as false the choice between our safety and our ideals.  Our Founding Fathers, faced with perils that we can scarcely imagine, drafted a charter to assure the rule of law and the rights of man -- a charter expanded by the blood of generations.  Those ideals still light the world, and we will not give them up for expedience sake." 

 


President Obama speaks. "These are the indicators of crisis, subject to data and statistics.  Less measurable, but no less profound, is a sapping of confidence across our land; a nagging fear that America's decline is inevitable, that the next generation must lower its sights."

 

 

In whatever direction I looked, I saw happy faces...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...enraptured faces...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...and the transformed smiles of those who had suddenly forgotten how cold they had felt through the long, short, hours that they had endured after arising at 3:00 AM to come down and stand immobile in the frigid air.

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

"Recall that earlier generations faced down fascism and communism not just with missiles and tanks, but with the sturdy alliances and enduring convictions.  They understood that our power alone cannot protect us, nor does it entitle us to do as we please.  Instead they knew that our power grows through its prudent use; our security emanates from the justness of our cause, the force of our example, the tempering qualities of humility and restraint." 

 


And then there was my own daughter, Lisa, who, as an Obama volunteer, had worked so hard to get this man elected. She had done so even though she knew that no matter what she and the other Alaska volunteers did, there was no chance that Barack Obama would receive our state's three electoral votes.

Still, she could make a statement that there is much diversity in the minds of Alaskans, that we do not all think the same nor fall inline with one way of thinking, that even on Main Street, Wasilla, Alaska, there is room for divergent thought and viewpoint among genuine, real, patriotic Americans.

Now, as she listened to the man whom she had worked so hard to elect speak, she got her payoff. And when she heard him say these words, "For we know that our patchwork heritage is a strength, not a weakness.  We are a nation of Christians and Muslims, Jews and Hindus, and non-believers.  We are shaped by every language and culture, drawn from every end of this Earth," she felt the reward of her hard work. It was the first time that she had heard a President make a statement about who just who the American people really are that did not exclude, but rather did include her.

President Barack Obama speaks from a position directly in front of us, yet we can identify him only on the Jumbotron.

 

"We will not apologize for our way of life, nor will we waver in its defense.  And for those who seek to advance their aims by inducing terror and slaughtering innocents, we say to you now that our spirit is stronger and cannot be broken -- you cannot outlast us, and we will defeat you." 

 

The speech concludes. The new President takes his seat. Lisa joins in the applause. She is the whole reason that we came. She was so thrilled when Barack Obama won the election that she immediately bought herself a round-trip ticket to New York City (Washington, DC, was too expensive) so that she could attend the inaugural. She did not have funds for a hotel, so she thought she would just camp out.

Margie and I had planned to take a vacation at this time, to go to Utah and Arizona, so that we could see family, and Margie could warm herself in the southwest sun and enjoy the winter daylight that Alaska lacks. 

Instead, we decided to change our itinerary a bit, and so accompanied Lisa to the Inauguration.

 

"Let it be said by our children's children that when we were tested we refused to let this journey end, that we did not turn back nor did we falter; and with eyes fixed on the horizon and God's grace upon us, we carried forth that great gift of freedom and delivered it safely to future generations." 


The ceremony ended, but the warm, euphoric feelings continued. Soon, of course, those feelings will be tempered by the enormity of the task that our new president faces. He will come under fire, and much of it will be directed towards him from those most responsible for creating the perilous situation that our country now faces. In fact, that fire has already begun.

I made a phone call from the Lincoln Memorial to a hard-right conservative who is most beloved to me. He brought up the fact that even as Obama was in the process of taking over the Presidency, jobs were being lost daily, by the tens of thousands. "They're calling it the Obama effect," he told me. He was quite serious, and, despite the last eight years, believed his own words.

I saw the true Obama effect, and I hope that you can see it in the pictures above, in the faces of those who attended the Inaugural.

Later, he told me that Obama had signed an executive order that meant the United States was now going to be paying for abortions. He said this in such a way as to imply that the government would be paying for abortions across the board, throughout the Country. In fact, what Obama had signed was an order that lifted the Bush ban on US aid to international family planning organizations with services that include advice or help to women who seek abortions - a very different matter.

So these are the kinds of distortions and obstacles that will be thrown at our new President as he works to lead us out of the mess that we are in.

True, as the situation grows worse, I suspect that even many who now cheer him will grow impatient and will issue their own harsh criticisms of the man they helped elect. Perhaps I will, myself.

Obviously, none of us can yet know how well our new President will handle the many crisis that he inherited and he will undoubtedly make some bad mistakes. For this, he will be loudly condemned.

Yet, it is my personal belief that, right now, the United States of America is in need of a leader the likes of which we have not seen at least since World War II. A great leader. As Colin Powell said, a transformational leader. One who can not only inspire us but convince us to make the kinds of sacrifice that we modern day Americans do not like to make.

Considering the challenges, without such a leader, it seems unlikely that United States will continue as the great power that it has been since World War II. Looking at all of our national leaders, in all parties, I do not see the potential of such a leader except in one individual: our new President, Barack Obama. I do believe he has that potential. Whether the potential will be fulfilled, I do not know. 

I wonder what I can do to help him succeed?

I suppose I could begin by finding a way to rapidly pay off the new credit card debt that I added to the old, just to travel to Washington, DC and back. This would mean I would have to put off some immediate gratification in order to help bring about a more prosperous future. I like that immediate gratification. I would like to think that I can now indulge in it, and let the future take care of itself.

Hmmmm.....

  

 

A click here will take you to the full text and video of President Obama's speech.