A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

All photos and text © Bill Hess, unless otherwise noted 
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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Entries in hitchhiker (2)

Wednesday
Sep012010

One image from breakfast, three from coffee break: the resolute couple; Metro portrait; Mahoney Ranch; hitch-hiking to the State Fair

This morning, I was wise. I cooked oatmeal and ate it. But these images are from yesterday and yesterday I was foolish and did what I wanted - I got up, dressed, said good-bye to the cats and headed over to Mat-Su Valley Family Restaurant for breakfast.

As I sipped coffee and waited for my ham and eggs, this couple left the restaurant and then walked by my window, resolute to the face the day.

Somehow, the day is a little easier to face after a breakfast at Family.

Sure, today I had oatmeal and that was the right thing to do, both in terms of my economy and health.

But how am I ever going to face this day?

At the usual time, 4:00 PM, as All Things Considered came on the radio, I headed to Metro Cafe for my afternoon coffee break. It had been awhile since I had shot a Through the Metro Window study, so I shot this one:

Through the Metro Window Study, #444: Carmen, Lily, Willow and Nola.

Again, I took the long way home, the route that goes by Grotto Iona and the Mahoney Ranch. Tim Mahoney was out pitching hay. I was going to shoot the picture in the usual way, from the car as I drove on by without stopping, but I suddenly decided to stop, get out of the car, shoot a couple of frames and chat a bit.

So that's what I did. Among the stories Tim told me about was how he had once been out near Council, when he looked up the embankment that rose over him and saw a big musk-ox standing above him and above the musk ox, a red falcon observing.

As I doubled back down Church towards home, I saw this young couple hitch-hiking. I used to pick up hitch-hikers all the time, but quit because too many bad things happened to others who did. But, somehow, I knew this couple would do me no harm, so I picked them up.

They had badly overslept but were up now, headed to the State Fair in Palmer. So I drove past the turn to my house, took them two-and-a-half more miles to the Parks Highway and dropped them off there, where there would much more traffic coming by than on Church Road.

I do have my Era Aviation ticket now and I fly north early tomorrow morning.

It could be awhile before I blog again, but I can't say for sure, so please check back, anyway.

 

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Saturday
Feb202010

As I wander through the oppressive heat of what cannot possibly yet be spring, I come upon an old friend; I pick up a hitchhiker by the Little Su

As can easily be seen, our horrifically warm weather continues. It feels like genuine spring. For the past three, maybe even four days, daytime temperatures have risen into the 40's and snow has been melting into slush.

The Iron Dog snowmachine race from here to Nome starts tomorrow. Two years ago, maybe three, I went to Big Lake for start of that race to photograph two competitors who were the nephews of my good friend, Rose Albert.

When I arrived at about 11:00 AM, the temperture was -36.

And now we are having weather in the 40's. Snow is melting. And down in the south, people who don't usually see much snow are getting dumped on and are freezing.

It is not that mid-winter 40's is strikingly unusal. It happens every winter, every now and then, its just that this winter relatively warm air has dominated the entire season. There has been very little cold.

It is El Niño, of course, pulling all that warm air up from the South Pacific, magnified by the Arctic Oscillation which has caused the normal polar low pressure to slip south and thus the Far North, even the Arctic itself, to be much warmer than normal - even than the normal of the past decade, which in itself has been significantly warmer than historical norms.

So - to you folks who jump up and down with glee and point to the snow and cold in Washington, DC and elsewhere as proof that global warming is a made up phenomena and that there is no reason for us to clean up our atmosphere but argue that we should just go on happily polluting so certain people can make big bucks until the Chinese master green technology and become the rulers of the world, I say, broaden your vision.

Look north!

This, by the way, is Ron Mancil.

A couple of weeks ago, I got a Facebook invitation from Ron to become one of his friends. We have been friends for decades, so of course I accepted. He then surprised me by telling me that he was working at the Mahoney Ranch, the place where I sometimes photograph horses on my coffee break, across the street from the tiny Mahoney Graveyard in Grotto Iona.

So, as I drove past on my coffee break, I saw the familiar figure of a man who I had probably not seen for at least a few years walking out of the horse pasture toward a barn. I pulled off the road, into the driveway, got out of the car, we shook hands and he introduced to the dog, whose name I have forgotten.

Ron and I first met nearly 30 years ago, when he came to work as an artist and cartoonist for the Tundra Times, where I got my start in Alaska. Ron is an Arctic Slope Iñupiaq and a greatly talented artist and scupltor. The remnants of many dinosaurs have been found on the Arctic Slope, including in the lands where his grandparents used to hunt and roam, and at times as a student of the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, Ron has worked with scientists to help uncover and identify those bones.

From time to time, though, the bottle has over-powered him and knocked him off course.

This is what brought him to Mahoney Ranch, where, about six months ago, Pat Mahoney, gave him work and a place to stay.

And all that time, I was regularly passing by, sometimes shooting pictures of the horses from my car, or photographing Grotto Iona and I did not even know he was there.

He has been living sober and dry, and takes courage from the fact that in this valley there are many alcoholics who are living sober, who are encouraging each other to do so.

More than once, things have gone wrong, but that doesn't matter now.

There is but one thing that matters and that is today... today... today...

After Ron and I visited, I got back into the car and headed towards home. Just before I got to the bridge that crosses the Little Su, I saw this man hitchhiking.

I don't normally pick up hitchhikers. I did when I was young. I picked them up all the time. Rarely did I ever pass one. Often times, if their destination lay beyond mine, I would just keep going and take them there. But over time, I heard too many reports of bad things happening to people who picked up hitchhikers, including murder.

I knew a fellow, a Vietnam Veteran, dead now, who was himself hitchhiking on the Parks Highway between here and Fairbanks when someone picked him up but then robbed and beat him, stripped him of his clothing and dumped him in temperatures far below zero and left him to freeze to death.

He did not want to freeze and so he ran and ran and ran until someone came along. He lived but lost much of his feet to frostbite.

So I decided it wasn't worth the risk and stopped picking them up.

Once in awhile, I will still pick up a hitchhiker, when something just tells me that it is absolutely okay and that it would be unnecessarily mean of me just to pass by.

Such was the case here. I figured he could only be a local, living in a cabin or hut without a car and that he just needed to get to the store or something.

Sure enough, that was the case. His name was Clay and he had me drop him off at the new gas station and store at the corner of Church and Seldon.

"I'm sure glad they built this place," he told me. "And I don't mind this weather, either. I just don't want it to rain, that's all. I'd rather it stayed just cold enough to snow, but no colder."

I wanted to give him my blog address so that he could see this, but he has no computer, no internet, and is not tech savvy, save for playing a video game that he told me about.

 

Baby Jobe is doing well. In the morning, before Kalib goes off to daycare, he reportedly gives his baby brother a mooch and a hug. Considering that he wanted nothing to do with him the last time we saw them together, that is a huge improvement.