A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Entries in North Slope Borough (2)

Friday
Sep172010

Preview of Nannie Rae's Cross Island birthday party; Kalib and Jobe return to the blog

In about one hour, I must leave for an overnight trip to Nikiski, where I will spend the day tomorrow, so I am just plain out of time to put together the Cross Island post that I had planned to do today. The fact is, while I had hoped to have done a complete initial edit of my entire Cross Island/Nuiqsut take by now, so far I have gone through less than one percent of that take.

Once I do go through it, there are huge sections of it that I will not post at all, but will save exclusively for Uiñiq magazine. As for Nannie's birthday, I plan to put it in both the blog and Uiñiq, but in Uiñiq I will probably have to limit it to one or two pictures, whereas here I can post a few.

Here, at least, is a preview of what I plan to post Monday, when I will return this blog to Cross Island/Nuiqsut for two or three more posts:

It is Nannie Rae Kaigelak, with a few of those who gathered in the Cross Island cabin of successful whaling captain Billy Oyagak to celebrate her 22nd birthday.

So I will dedicate my Monday post to a spread that will focus not only on Nannie's birthday, but on a particular Eskimo drum that happened to play a role in that birthday.

If you love Cross Island and you love Nannie Rae - and a great many people do - or even if you have never met Nannie Rae and all that you know of Cross Island is the tiny bit that you have so far seen on this blog, be sure to come back Monday.

In the meantime, come Sunday, I will let Barrow Whaler fans know how the team fared in Nikiski.

So I finally got to see my grandsons and their mom again, yesterday afternoon, when I drove into Anchorage to pick Margie up from this week's babysitting stint.

Here they are, in their driveway.

Little Jobe ALWAYS has a big smile for his grandpa, everytime I see him. 

Martigny was there, too. She never smiles, but she does purr.

As I Margie and I prepared to drive away, Lavina brought Kalib to the window to wave goodbye to us. He did not want us to go. He wanted us to stay. He cried to see us go.

And now, once again, I must go.

That's how my life is. I seldom have time to ever settle down, except for when I was hurt, or Margie was hurt. I am always going.

Go... go... go...

Always.

One day I will be dead and then I will go no more.

I wonder how much I can get done between now and then?

 

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Monday
Jul132009

Thirty-seven years ago, they founded and organized the North Slope Borough; now they are honored by the Borough


Many of their peers have since passed on, but here are a few of those who founded and helped to organize the North Slope Borough: the late Walter Nayakik of Wainwright, founder, represented by his son, Jimmy Nayakik; Frank Matumeak, of Nuiqsut, founder; Lloyd Ahvakana of Barrow, first Finance Director; Jon Buchholdt of Anchorage, special assistant to Eben Hopson, first Mayor; Billy Nashoalook of Wainwright, founder; the late Roosevelt Paneak of Anaktuvuk Pass, founder, represented by his son, Bruce; Fenton Rexford of Kaktovik, founder. Mayor Hopson is pictured in the painting that hangs on the wall behind them.

After oil was discovered at Prudhoe Bay in 1968, the oil companies and the State of Alaska began to negotiate between themselves on how to divvy up the wealth and royalties that would soon be pulled from the Iñupiat Arctic Slope homeland and shipped south through the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. They completely left the Iñupiat out of the equation.

The Iñupiat were the original owners of not only Prudhoe Bay but the entire Arctic Slope and all the wealth within it and they had never agreed to surrender or sell any of it. When the Alaska Native Land Claims Settlement Act (ANCSA) was passed in 1971, Joe Upicksoun, the Arctic Slope representative, shouted out a thunderous "No!" when asked for his peoples' vote on whether or not to accept ANCSA as written.

Billy Nashoalook of Wainwright, Founder.

Still, without Iñupiat consent, the act passed. As far as the State, the Feds and the oil companies were concerned, the $1 billion that would be paid to the 13 Alaska Native regional corporations and over 220 village corporations that were to be formed across the state, was compensation enough.

It was also argued that all of Alaska's Natives had also been "given" 44 million of the 375 million acres that had sustained them and been their's under aboriginal title since time immemorial and that this was enough.

The Iñupiat did not see it that way. In a single day's lease sale at Prudhoe Bay, the oil companies had paid $1 billion for the right to explore for oil - because they knew that from that $1 billion, they would reap billions upon billions upon billions. This single day's lease take equalled the entire sum paid to all the Alaska Native nations -  not just the Iñupiat, but the Tlingit and Haida, Athabascan, Aleut, Yup'ik and every Alaska Native - for the 330 million acres of their traditional homelands that they would not be allowed to claim.

Frank Matumeak is congratulated by Mayor Edward Itta and Assembly President Eugene Brower.

The Iñupiat believed that if oil from their traditional lands was going to generate wealth to benefit the entire United States, a substantial portion of that wealth should be directed back to the Slope to benefit the people there.

Also, they felt that if there was going to be development in the Iñupiat homeland, the Iñupiat must have planning and zoning powers in order to protect environmentally sensitive places important to the animals, fish and birds that sustained them.

And so they determined that they would organize the strongest form of Borough government allowed under state law - one that would give them powers of taxation, planning and zoning. While that government would not receive royalties from oil development at Prudhoe Bay and nearby fields, it would be able to tax the property and physical structures of the oil companies - everything from pipelines to wells to housing quarters.

This would provide the funds needed to improve housing, build schools, medical facilties, power plants, water and sewer facilities, police deparments - the kinds of services that most Americans took for granted, but that scantly existed on the North Slope.

Fenton Rexford, Founder.

The Borough did organize and Eben Hopson, one of the men who led the push, was voted in as first Mayor. He is revered across the Slope and his achievements and legacy are highly honored among the Iñupiat. There were many others who played critical roles in that push, from the Reverend Samuel Simmonds to Charlie Edwardsen, Jr.

Many meetings and gatherings were held in all eight Slope village in the process of organizing the North Slope Borough and those individuals who did the organizing and signed the charter document are now known as the founders. Three who still live, along with the sons of two who are deceased, were honored in person for their achievement by Borough Mayor Edward Itta and the NSB Assembly at last week's assembly meeting.

The original founders present included Frank Matumeak of Nuiqsut, Billy Nashoalook of Wainwright and Fenton Rexford of Kaktovik. The late Roosevelt Paneak of Anaktuvuk Pass was represented by his son, Bruce, and the late Walter Nayakik of Wainwright by his son, Jimmy.

Jon Buccholdt. The ivory eagle on the table beside him was given to Buccholdt as a gift from Charlie Hopson, son of Eben Hopson, first mayor of the Borough.

Also honored was Lloyd Ahvakana, the Borough's first finance director and a close confidant and advisor to Hopson and Jon Buchholdt, special assistant to Eben Hopson, an attorney famed for his ability to innovate and to help advance Borough issues in the face of powerful and often hostile opponents.

While the journey has often been a rough one, on the whole the North Slope Borough has been remarkably successful. In every village there are modern, well-equipped schools, fire-stations, power plants, utilities, clinics, police stations, roads and maintenance and other facilities.

Lloyd Ahvakana, the Borough's first finance director.

Even so, subsistence hunting remains the primary source of sustenance for most of the Borough's Native people and even many of its non-Native residents. The Borough has stood up for subsistence rights, including the financial support it has given the Alaska Eskimo Whaling Commission in the fight to protect the bowhead whale hunt from a world that once sought to shut it down.

It has a wildlife department that funds and coordinates wildlife science to provide hard data on the health of Arctic animals.

"The Borough has been a fighting force for us," Matumeak said. He recalled that during the process that led to its founding, there were many worrying moments. Unlike a tribe, the Borough would not be a Native government, per se. Would outside forces work their way in and take the power away from the Iñupiat?

That has not happened, Matumeak says. He points with pride to the schools and other facilities that can be found in every village. He still would like to see more of the jobs that go to newcomers filled by Iñupiat and is positive that the Iñupiat can successfully do those jobs.

The three original founders who were honored in person: Frank Matumeak, Billy Nashoalook and Fenton Rexford. Rexford serves on the Assembly.

Billy Nashoalook recalled a moment of high drama in the organization process. He and others were flying back to Barrow after a village meeting in the red airplane with the flat tires when the landing gear got stuck in the up position. As their fuel neared empty and the time to land became imminent, the pilot finally managed to crank the gear down by hand.