A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Entries in India (80)

Tuesday
Dec272011

Niece Sujitha of India brings a new Thomas the Train into our lives - along with a huge amount of excitement; Jobezilla goes on the rampage

This is Sujitha Ravichandran, who became my niece after the second daughter of my sister Mary Ann married Suji's first cousin, Vivek Iyer. I attended the Bangalore wedding of Vivek and Khena and it was there that I met Suji - and her sister, Soundarya.

As I have written before, Soundarya, or Sandy, as she often liked to be called, and I bonded instantly. Thanks to the wonder of the internet, we kept in near constant communication; I called her Muse and returned to India to be there for her when she married Anil Kumar. After my return back to the US, we again resumed our online communications for another year-and-a-half - until that black day just over 13 months ago when she answered the accidental death of her husband with the intentional death of herself.

Soundarya and Sujtha had been extremely close. Sandy called Suji "Barbie" and Suji called Soundarya, "Soundu." Soundu - such a beautiful, sweet, affectionate nickname!

In times of tragedy, unspeakable heartbreak and bitter grief, one turns to any source of comfort one can find. Without a doubt, we both had others, but Suji and I did turn to each other - and in ways that we could have turned to no others. We made a pact to keep the lines of communication open between us 24 hours a day, seven days a week, all month long, 12 months a year.

I began to sleep with my phone, to ensure that I would not miss her should she call.

We conversed at any hour of the day or night. We shed many tears together, and groped to find answers where answers could not be found. She, a Hindu, and me, a lapsed Mormon Christian, found solace and faith in the spirits of each other.

Had it not been for Suji, I do not know how I would have got through these past 13 months. She has always been there for me, even if weeping, and I for her.

As we communicated, Suji came to better know my family - my family also being her family - and she fell in love with every member. She grew a deep fondness for Margie and the grandsons, Jobe in particular.

Last spring, she left Bangalore for London to be with her fiance, Manoj Biradar, who she plans to marry in a formal Hindu ceremony in March - and I plan to be there.

She was able to get a better paying job in London than any she had ever had in India, and so did Manu. Yet, life is a financial challenge for them, particularly with the wedding coming up.

So I was a bit stunned when she told me that she was wiring a generous cash gift to my bank in Wasilla, as a Christmas present for Margie and me.

It was the first Christmas present that she had ever given, she informed me. She worried that it might not be up to American standards of Christmas, but she wanted to give something that Margie and I could enjoy together - dinner out, perhaps. Something that would bring us joy - and if her gift brought a bit of joy to the family at large, so much the better.

Now I will tell you about Sujitha's gift, and show you how it impacted our Christmas, 2011:

I was a little bit lost as to how to spend that money, but I wanted the gift to encompass more than a dinner or two or three or four for Margie and me. Someday, we will accept the treat of dinner from Sujitha - in person, when we can all sit at the table together, Manoj, too. I wanted this gift to be something that could bring pleasure to the whole Hess family - joy that I could photograph and then share through the photos with her.

Something that my entire family enjoys is... Kalib, Jobe and Lynxton, whether we call them grandsons, sons, or nephews. We all enjoy these boys like crazy.

And Kalib and Jobe enjoy Thomas the Train. I will bet anything that it won't be long before Lynxton does, too. Kalib and Jobe have little wooden Thomas the Train engines and cars, tracks, and other Thomas the Train toys.

Those wooden toys are just right for them. They are rugged and tough. They can be grabbed and thrown, run over, driven off cliffs; they are a perfect fit to be grasped by hands that have yet to develop fine motor skills.

As regular readers know, I am an HO train modeler of sorts. I don't have the kind of elaborate setup that many serious electric train enthusiasts do, but, after I lost my first black cat, Little Guy, I was extremely distraught and since he loved to chase and pounce on electric trains, I built an HO scale electric railroad in his honor at about the seven-foot level on my eight-foot office walls.

I had never seen an HO Thomas train set, but I figured they must exist. To make a long story short, after some searching both online and on the ground, I found a Thomas the Train HO set at the Hobbycraft store in the Dimond Mall. It was priced a little higher than Suji's gift, but not by much. By adding $34.00 of my own, with Margie's full approval, I was able to purchase it.

On Christmas Day, I was the one who handed out the gifts, one by one. I had a plan for Suji's gift. I was going to hold it until near the end. Then I planned to stop, explain how Suji had given a gift of cash and had left it up to me as to what to buy and that I had decided that everyone could get some pleasure out of a Thomas the Train, HO scale.

I would explain my plans to keep it at the house and when the boys came out and wanted to play with it, I would set it up and we would all have fun. I knew that Kalib would want to take it home, but I planned to explain that it was a gift to us all and was too fragile to be played with in the rough style of little boys, especially "Jobezilla," but we would all have a good time with Thomas the HO train here at the house.

Yet, I had barely begun the gift distribution when Jobezilla hurled himself into action, grabbed the paper that I had wrapped Sujitha's gift in and ripped off a large section. Kalib's eyes went wide. "Thomas!" he shouted.

Kalib has not fully grasped the spirit of Christmas giving. His strategy this year was to refuse to open any gift until someone else started to open it and then if he saw something he liked, to claim it for himself. Thus, he had claimed a very cute stuffed dog meant for Lynxton and then when he had to yield it to his baby brother had wept bitterly.

Now, before I could begin my little speech about his Aunt Sujitha, her generous gift and my master plan, Kalib ripped off the remainder of the wrapping paper.

I now tried to give my speech, but it fell on preoccupied ears. In Kalib's mind, the HO Thomas the Train was now his. It was not a gift from the aunt he had never met and could not visualize; it was not a gift from grandpa. It had been bestowed upon him by natural order of the universe. It was his and no one else's.

Thus, he grew very angry when I returned Thomas, still in the unopened box, to my office for safe keeping until after we all shared Christmas dinner together.

After dinner, I set the train up, then invited Kalib over. He was thrilled and squealed mightily. Jobezilla was taking a nap. In fact, Jobezilla had napped right through Christmas dinner.

Jobezilla soon woke from his nap. His mom brought him to us, to see what kind of havoc and destruction he might wreak.

At first, Jobezilla was too tired and groggy to wreak any kind of destruction. Look closely and you will see his milk bottle and his cute little wrecking toes on Jacob's lap as Kalib lovingly watches Thomas pull his load around the track.

Jobezilla knew that he had a mission to accomplish, so he worked himself into position to better study the layout of his next destruction project. His dad tried to keep an eye on him and his big brother at the same time. In his enthusiasm to try and run the train and handle it, too, Kalib was prone to exercise his own moments of Kalibzilla.

Oh, did Kalib love this Thomas train! Before setting up the track, I had tested the Thomas Train on my own office railroad tracks. Lavina had come in to witness. She had wondered if maybe Kalib would lose interest after five minutes or so of watching it do nothing but go round the track.

Perhaps he would have, had Thomas stayed on the track seven feet above the floor.

According to the metadata, I took my first photo of Thomas in action seconds before 5:45 PM and my last seconds before 9:12 PM. Not for one second would Kalib's interest lapse. And, after 3.5 hours, in no way would he be ready to stop and go home.

When Jobezilla finally struck, he struck fast, without warning. I was not quick enough to photograph the moment - just the aftermath.

As his dad tried to restrain a screamining Jobezilla, Charlie came over to help put the train back together. Kalib wanted to do it all himself, but, as earlier noted, his motor skills are not there yet. There was a very real danger that his repair job could do more damage than the crash itself - which, fortunately, appeared to do no damage whatsoever.

Jobezilla quickly broke through his restraints and jerked Thomas off the track once again. I missed the more dramatic shots of the action that followed this capture. I was too busy trying to save Thomas and his cars from total destruction.

Charlie then put the train back together again as Jobezilla fought to find his way back to continue his rampage of destruction.

Peace was restored. Thomas the Train found himself with time to safely round the track, again and again. This should not be interpreted to mean that Jobezilla had been put out of action...

...No... Jobezilla had turned his attention elsewhere. Jobezilla now drove trains across his grandmother's head, who, with great courage, dedication and a strong sense of genetic survival, continued to feed her youngest grandson with his mother's own milk.

Then, as Kalib labored to put the windmill so necessary to keep water supplied to Thomas's steam engine to work, Jobezilla suddenly charged onto the railroad. Thomas the Train was about to experience a head-toe-on collision.

Yet, the derailed train was soon re-railed again. Kalib now began to pick up some train engineer skills.

It was a beautiful thing to see - Thomas the Train, steaming past the windmill that provides the water for his steam.

But where was Jobezilla?

It all seemed just too safe.

Oh, the horror! The horror!

There he is! Jobezilla! Or at least his thumb, toppling the windmill right onto Thomas! I feared this might have inflicted some lasting damage.

But it didn't. These HO Thomases are truly more rugged than I would have imagined. Soon, Thomas the Train was righted and running again. Then Kalib saw Jobezilla's bare feet threatening. Kalib shot his little hands out to grab the train.

"No, Jobe! No, Jobe!" Kalib screamed.

Naturally, his protective hands derailed Thomas, but Thomas survived.

And then, using the toes of his left foot, Jobezilla knocked Thomas askew, but Thomas did not stop. His wheels half on the tracks and half off, Thomas steamed past by Jobezilla's right foot, hoping not to get toe-clobbered again.

Jobezilla's dad pulled him off to a "safe" distance. With Jobezilla out of the way, Kalib gazed upon Thomas with love and adoration.

Jobezilla broke free again. Now, with great finesse, he derailed the trailing cars with a mere touch of the extended big toe.

Kalib again takes over the engineer's spot. Whenever he would goof up and his dad would try to take over, he would shout, "No, Daddy! No!"

"No Daddy, no Daddy, no Daddy, No! No, no Daddy, no!"

Well, look at this! It's Thomas, cruising fast and unbothered.

Oops... Jobezilla returned with a Thomas of his own, not an HO Thomas but a big, floor-running, Thomas. As Kalib shouted, "No, Jobe, No Jobe!" Jobezilla thrust the big Thomas onto the track in front of the speeding HO Thomas, causing a head-on collision.

It was horrible!

Just horrible, I tell you!

Oh, the enginamity!

Somehow, a revived Thomas squeaked through between the toes of a towering Jobezilla.

This time, the Jobezilla toes won. Thomas the Train went down again. This time, it was Melanie who came to help right the Thomas Train.

I told you the whole family would enjoy this gift!

Knowing that Thomas needed to cool off, Kalib improvised and turned the windmill into a fan.

It was a grand evening - the most fun evening of all to take place in this house in a very long time.

But it had to end. Kalib did not want it to. He wanted this evening to last forever.

He refused to leave and go get his coat on. There was nothing to do but for me to disassemble the railroad and put Thomas and his cars back into the box.

I began to do so. I tried to get Kalib to see if he could show me which cars fit in which impressions in the packaging, but he refused to be ameliorated.

"No! No!," he screamed. "I want Thomas! No, no, no!"

I packaged Thomas up, picked up the box and began to carry it back to my office.

"Bye, bye, Thomas..." I heard Kalib weeping and sobbing behind me. "Bye, bye, Thomas!" Oh, it was a sad, sad, sound!

His parents got him bundled up and his dad carried him to the car. He screamed all the way. "No! No! Thomas! I want Thomas!"

Finally, he was buckled up into his car seat. I opened the door and went to give him a hug. "No! No!" he screamed, shaking his head violently. I had never seen him so angry - and he was angry at me. He did not see me as the one who had brought the HO Thomas into his life, with crucial help from his aunt Sujitha from India who had made a big sacrifice that he had no appreciation for or understanding of. 

He did not see me as the one who would keep Thomas safe until he can return to play with him again. He saw me only as the meanie bully who had now taken Thomas away from him.

To be quite honest, even though he was only about two hours short of his fourth birthday, this offended me a bit.

"This Thomas isn't for you alone, it is for the family!" I spoke sharply. "If it wasn't for your Aunt Suji and me, this Thomas would never have been here for you to play with at all! And if this how you are going to act, if you are going to be mean to me when I have been nice to you, then next time you come back, I won't even get Thomas out. You won't be able to play with Thomas at all."

I knew that in my own anger I was speaking over Kalib, I knew he would not grasp my meaning at all.

But suddenly, he quit screaming. He went silent. He looked at me with a surprising expression of having suddenly understood. He lifted up his arms and extended them toward me. I leaned in. He gave me a hug. I gave him a hug.

In short order, I knew, this would all come together. Kalib would soon know that when he came out, we would get Thomas out. When he left, we would put Thomas back.

Even so, he cried all the way home.

And the next afternoon, when I showed up at his house for his birthday party, he was not very happy with me. But he was happy with his wooden Thomas trains - as you will soon see.

Yes, it will all come together. Thomas will bring much joy to Kalib - and to Jobezilla, and to Jobe, once Jobezilla morphs into Jobe once again. 

And joy to Lynxton; joy to Dad Jacob and Mom Lavina. Joy to Margie. Joy o aunts and uncles. To me.

Thank you, Niece Sujitha.

I guarantee you, had you not wired your generous gift that you could so truly have used across the ocean, there would be no Thomas the Train HO in this house. It was your love that made all this happen. Someday, Kalib will understand this. He will love you, as I do, as do we all - we, your family in Alaska.

This goes for you, too, Gane, brother to Sujitha, brother to Soundarya. I know you will be reading this as well. Please pass our love on to your parents.

 

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Tuesday
Apr122011

In remembrance of Soundarya, on her 33rd birthday...

While this post is dated April 12, the day that it now is here in Alaska, in India, it is now April 13 - the birthday of my late Muse and soul friend, who was Soundarya Ravichandran when I first met her and became Soundarya Anil Kumar on the day that I took this picture.

Muse - soul friend - beloved by all who knew her - remembered today, her 33rd birthday, and every day. Seen here with sister Sujitha (Suji), left, and her Aunt Vasanthi - early on the morning of the day that she would marry Anil Kumar, another beloved who we also continue to mourn. In the background is her cousin, Buddy.

 

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Sunday
Mar272011

Branson, Metro Cafe's 38 pound hockey player, knows how to score and celebrate; cat and baby at the door

Not long before I headed off on one of my Arctic Slope trips last fall, I promised Carmen that I would take some pictures of Branson, her five-year old son, doing some hockey stuff. Well, you know what happens to time. His regular season ended and now he is attending a hocky camp at the Mernard Sports Center.

He had sessions schedule for Saturday and Sunday afternoons and then one more on Wednesday. I was pretty sure I would not be able to make the Sunday session, couldn't say about Wednesday and so I decided that I had better go Saturday. I arrived with a little more than one-half hour of the session left.

Here he is: Branson, the 38-pound, five-year old, hockey player.

Branson was, in fact, the smallest person on the ice. And he was competing against some older and bigger boys - six and seven year olds who have been playing for years.

But you can see - Branson was skating hard.

Branson and competitor go after puck.

Who will get it?

They are fighting hard, now.

Now they are in front of the goal, Branson on offense, his competitor on defense determined to stop him.

Branson belts the puck past the defender.

The defender knocks Branson to the ice, but it doesn't matter: the puck he slammed is shooting right between the feet of the goalie and into the net.

Branson skates away from his successful goal shot in celebration.

Pretty soon, he does it again... and then again after that. 

He raises his puck in victory, but now he is also searching the bleachers for a familiar face. Could it be Mom? Is she there? Will he find her? Did she notice?

She is there and he does find her and she did notice.

After the scrimmage ends an adult skates by. "Congratulations on your goal," he tells Branson.

Branson, the hockey player.

Branson with his friends, Colin and Caroline. They do not play hockey. They play soccer ("football" to all my relatives and friends in India and the rest of the world).

Carmen is pretty proud. 

After I returned home, I came here into my office and went to work. I had not been working long before I heard a knock on the door.

Puzzled, I got up and opened it. Who do you think I saw standing on the other side?

It was Jim, my good black cat. "C'mon on in, Jim!" I invited. He entered and soon walked across my keyboard as I was typing.

Then I heard another knock. Again I got up and opened the door.

This time it was Jobe, who had just driven his mother and older brother out from Anchorage.

Jobe came in. Jim decided it was time to leave, jumped off my keyboard and walked to the door.

 

And this from India:

Feral street dog at Ooty tea farm.

 

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Tuesday
Mar152011

Will this be Jobe's last great crawl through the house? Congratulations, John Baker! post Kivgiq scene, Friendly people in a truck

First, before I analyze what may have been Jobe's last great crawling expedition through this house, I must congratulate John Baker for his record-breaking Iditarod win. I was greatly pleased to learn this. Baker is the first Alaska Native to win this great race since 1976, and the first Iñupiat ever to win it.

I only regret that I could not have been there to photograph his finish. Oh, this blog has such a long way to go to ever become what I want and hope it to be! And the event that happened today that I missed will never come again.

In some ways, it doesn't matter, because his finish was well-documented and there is probably not much I could have added to it, but given where he comes from and my history with the Iñupiat, I surely wish that I could have been there.

But there is no point in feeling sorry for myself, what is, is, and I was present for Jobe's great expedition and here it is. Given the fact that he has learned to toddle behind the wagon, given the fact that yesterday he rose up and stood for a time all on his own, it is possible that from now on, his expeditions will be taken all on foot.

He will be spending time with us this weekend, and I think he will probably still do some crawling, but one never knows.

Anyway, this particular crawling expedition began with him chasing after Jim. He did not catch him.

After Jim ditches him, Jobe continues on through the kitchen and enters the hallway.

Jobe ponders which way to go.

He turns around and goes the other way - all the way to our bedroom.

Once in the bedroom, he turns around again. Will he come out?

Yes! He pushes open the door and comes out.

Back up the hall he goes.

Jobe completes his great expedition.

Last night, I finally reached the very last Kivgiq picture that I took, and this is it - right after everything came to an end and people began to disperse.

So, today, I will go back through and make some kind of Kivgiq show tomorrow. I did not think that I was going to be able to, but it now looks like there is a good possibility that I will get to make a special Kivgiq Uiñiq. In this case, I will not go quite so crazy here with hundreds of pictures as I had thought I would, as I will want that Uiñiq to be special when it comes out, with a good number of pictures in it that will have not been seen before.

 

And this from India...

Friendly people in a truck, going who knows where to do who knows what, as our taxicab passes them on the right.

 

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Friday
Mar042011

One study of the young writer, Shoshana, involving chicken soup; three buses and a really tight squeeze

Taking my one break away from the computer from just after I got up to just before I went to bed, at 4:00 PM I headed to Metro cafe to get my Americano. There, Shoshana greeted me with a bowl of chicken soup.

Shoshana's mother, Tobi, had made the soup and knowing that Margie was sick, Shoshana thought a bowl might do her some good.

Hence we have:

Study of the Young Writer, Shoshana, #21,324: Shoshana brings chicken soup for my ill wife.

Shoshana was a little surprised when I raised my camera to photograph her with the soup. I am not certain why, since I photograph just about everything, but I am pleased that she was, as her reaction gave the picture an added touch.

Bus # 1: spotted driving into a sunbeam as I was driving the soup home to Margie.

Margie was surprised and touched when I presented the soup to her.

In the evening, Margie heated up the soup. She took her first spoonful even before she could sit down. She pronounced it excellent. She shared a small bowl with me. It was delicious - seasoned just right, with an elegant touch of broccoli.

Thank you, Shoshana.

Thank you, Tobi.

 

And this from India: the really tight squeeze

 

Buses #2 and #3:

On Monday, I included a picture of two trucks passing by each other while traveling in opposite directions. One reader, Mrs Gunka, commented that it was "a tight squeeze."

So I decided it was time to show this, a really tight squeeze.

Furthermore, notice that there is a surprisingly large gap between our taxi and the bus ahead. No matter how tight, in India, no such gap can be left unfilled for but a fraction of a moment.

Just as nature abhors a vacuum, the Indian highway abhors a gap in traffic.

 A guy on a motor scooter shoots the gap as the buses slip by each other.

 

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