A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

All photos and text © Bill Hess, unless otherwise noted 
All support is appreciated
Bill Hess's other sites
Search
Navigation
Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

Blog archive
Blog arhive - page view

Entries in Barrow (89)

Tuesday
Nov152011

Congratulations, North Slope Borough Mayor Charlotte Brower; Thank you, North Slope Borough Mayor Edward Itta

Charlotte Brower of Barrow made history today when the final vote was counted and she became the first woman ever to be elected Mayor of the North Slope Borough. Congratulations, Charlotte - may you serve well and lead the great Arctic Slope with strength through these times of temendous challenge into the future.

The challenges are many and great, but I am certain Mayor Brower will have strong support as she faces these issues. This being the Arctic, I also know that she will have the prayers of thousands behind her. In the Arctic, that means a lot.

Charlotte is pictured here at the wedding of Frederick, son to her and Eugene, who stands immediately behind her, to his bride, Dora Faye in June of 2005. On that day, her family and crew also celebrated the spring whale they had landed by feeding the community at Nalukatak.

I photographed the wedding and in return, Charlotte presented me with a beautiful blue parka that is my single-most cherished piece of clothing.

And thank you, Mayor Edward Itta, Saġġan, for the past six years in which you have stood strong in the face of the many challenges facing the north - from a rapidly changing climate to dealing with industry and improving health.

This is Mayor Itta singing gospel at the 2011 Kivgiq singspiration with his wife, Elsie, and family, including his mother Molly.

On the personal level, I thank Mayor Itta for the opportunity he provided me to return back to the work that I love best - documenting through Uiñiq magazine the way of life and beautiful culture that exists on the coldest yet so incredibly wonderful stretch of land and sea in North America.

On this count, I must also express my thanks to former Mayor George Ahmaogak, Sr., who lost to Charlotte at the polls today. George is the man who first took me to whale camp, later backed me up in starting Uiñiq and opened the door to the Far North that I have been so fortunate to step through.

I will be forever grateful.

Quyanaqpak to the three of you.

 

Monday
Oct172011

The eye of the New York Times focuses on Barrow; winter draws nigh to Wasilla

This is New York Times reporter William Yardley, as his byline reads in the paper, although he introduced himself to me as Bill Yardley. As I am Bill, too, and we were in Barrow, that would make him my "atik," which, in a way, kind of makes us like relatives of sorts.

I first met him, along with New York Times photographer Jim Wilson and videographer Erik Olsen, in the North Slope Borough office building, where they had just interviewed Mayor Edward Itta. 

Then, the next day, I saw them at the Barrow Whalers' football playoff game when our boys defeated Monroe Catholic and again immediately afterward at the site where the Aiken whale had been landed and butchered.

I took this picture in the rearview mirror as Yardley drove the car they had rented from the landing site back to Barrow, about five miles. We happened to leave at the same time and they were kind enough to give me a ride.

Judging from what they told me, they must have more coverage coming, in addition to what appeared today in two parts online.

The two parts can be found here:

http://tinyurl.com/3z6rurw

http://nyti.ms/nP8QSC

Yardley has also spent a lot of time in Wasilla, covering... well, you know who... the same person who pulled media from all over the world to Wasilla... while I, a media person who lives right here... just turned around and walked away from it all, just about. Yardley covered her for the New York Times.

I took a walk today. As you can see, winter has not quite reached Wasilla, the way it has reached Barrow and the Arctic Slope, but it is getting close.

This dog came running, barking, growling, snarling, charging in from behind, pretending that it was going to rip me to pieces. When I turned and pointed my camera at it, it stopped cold. It let its tail fall down.

Most "mean" dogs are like this - but in Barrow, I met a genuinely mean dog.

It was scary. Given the level of its gnashing teeth teeth to my body, I was thinking it was good that I had already fathered all the children I ever need to, but, at the same time, the idea of losing the capability to a mean dog did exactly please me.

Later in the afternoon, during my usual 4:00 PM coffee break, I drove down Shrock Road and discovered that it had snowed there - just a couple of miles from our house. It was late in the afternoon and it had been sunny all day, so the snow must have completely covered the ground in the morning.

Winter is drawing nigh to Wasilla - I hope. The leaves are long gone now. Once the leaves go, I am ready for the snow.

Plus, I got used to it in Barrow and Atqasuk.

 

View images as slides


Wednesday
Oct122011

Barrow novelist Debby Dahl Edwardson is named as a finalist for the National Book Award - her husband George

I am proud to join in the praise for my friend of nearly 30 years, Barrow novelist Debby Dahl Edwardson, who has just been named as a finalist for the National Book Award for Young People's Literature.

"Wait a minute!" the indignant reader suddenly shouts in protest. "If Debby is the finalist, then she should be the center of attention! Why is she looking at her husband? Why is he the one doing the talking, not her? This is all wrong!"

No, it is not wrong. It is right. Debby is the first to tell you - she is the writer in the family, but husband George Edwardson is a master story-teller and a continual source of inspiration and raw material for the words that she writes.

When their children were small, Debby would read stories to them. George would tell them stories - wonderful stories, Debby says, stories that never repeated themselves but always went somewhere new - stories based on the life that George knew as an Iñupiaq hunter and scholar in the traditional sense.

She always knew that if told they could hear one but not the other, her children would choose the stories George told from his mind and soul over the ones she read.

Over the years, she heard him tell many stories about his days as a student at the Copper Valley School, the now-closed Native boarding school in Glennallen run by the Catholic Church.

Some of the stories were funny. Some of the stories were inspirational. Some sad - many were downright hard and even tragic. Most were a combination of all these things and more.

Then, about a decade ago, Debby accompanied George to a reunion of the Copper Valley alumni. There, she was deeply moved by the familial connections and shared experiences that bound the students together.

She saw it as a story that needed to be told. George agreed. Debby then crafted a screen play and submitted it to the Sundance Institute. She received a hand-written rejection informing her that it had ranked high, but not quite high enough. In 2003, she began reworking it into her Master's Thesis.

And now it is her third book, My Name is Not Easy, behind Whale Snow and Blessings Bead, and a finalist for the National Book Award. Debby stresses that it is not a book about Copper Valley School per se - it is a work of fiction, inspired by the stories of her husband but relevant to the boarding school experience experienced by so many Alaska Native students.

She also stresses that it is not a book about victimization. Like the real-life graduates of boarding schools, her students did experience many hardships and wrongs, but they also formed bonds, learned about the western world and many went on to work together to advance Native rights.

The book was published by Marshall Cavendish and edited by Melanie Kroupa, who long ago saw talent in Debby and, like an editor of old times, stuck with her and nourished her through five years of rewriting and reworking until the book was just right.

When she was about three, Debby would often stand in her father's den and gaze at the many books that filled his shelves. She could not yet read or write, but she understood that there was power and stories between the covers of these inanimate objects. She knew she wanted to be part of those books - as both reader and creator.

When she was in the third grade, her teacher gave her an assignment to make a diary about a family camping trip. She wrote about what it felt like to sit in the front of the boat as it made its own waves while pushing its way through the lake.

After she handed in her paper, she noticed her teacher show her story to another teacher. She could see that her teacher was boasting about her. She knew then that she had the ability to make the power of words her own and with that power could move other people.

Conversely, in high school, she asked her English teacher if she believed she could be a writer. "No," the teacher responded.

"That's the one you want to invite to the awards," George interjects sardonically.

In college, an instructor convinced her that she could write articles for publications.

By the mid-70's, she found herself living in Barrow, where she attended a public hearing on a an environmental impact statement dealing with offshore oil development.

There, a young man stood up and took apart the environmental impact statement piece-by-piece. "When he was done, he had totally destroyed that environmental impact statement," Debby remembers. She wrote the event up and it became her first article published in the mainstream press: We Alaskans, the then Sunday magazine of the Anchorage Daily News.

That young man was George Edwardson, who continues that fight to this day. The two had no idea that they would one day wed and make a family together.

Next, she went to work for KBRW, the Barrow public radio station, reporting, writing, and reading news articles.

One day, Jean Craighead George, the famed Children's author and mother of Craig George, renowned bowhead biologist, came to Barrow and agreed to an interview. Afterward, Debby told George that she had always wanted to write stories for young people.

"She looked at me and said, 'well, do it."

Struck by the simplicity of the answer, Debby did, indeed, do it.

As for George, he says that "of course" he is proud of his wife. "I have always been." He adds that he was not surprised when she was named a finalist, because he has known for decades that such honors would come to his wife. Even Debby's mother, who did the painting on the wall behind him, had always known, George, who puts great stock in the knowledge of mothers, added.

Debby is retired from Ilisagvik College, but still serves as an adjunct professor. She was also just reelected to the board of the North Slope Borough School District. As part of her campaign, she ran an ad on the Eskimo channel that stated that education is the passing of the soul of a culture from one generation to the next.

"That's what your writing is, too," George told her.

The announcemnt of the winner of the National Book Award will be made at a fancy dinner next month in New York City. Naturally, George has been invited to attend alongside his wife. He has consented to go to New York, but not to the dinner. "It's black tie," he explains. "They're not going to put a tie on me!"

Last night, when I visited them, George was busy making ulu knives - some very large, some very small. He will convert a pair of tiny ulus into a set of ear rings for his wife to wear to the dinner where the announcement will be made.

Believe me, I stand by George on the whole black tie thing. I understand perfectly. Even so, I hope that when Debby enters the fancy place that George walks in alongside her, dressed in his classiest Iñupiaq clothing. If so, no man there will be more elegantly dressed than will be George Edwardson of Barrow, Alaska.

Well, there's lots more I could write about my friends, Debby and George Edwardson, but I've got to get up early to catch a plane to Atqasuk. And anyway, in no time at all, there's going to be lots of writers, even from outfits like the New York Times, writing about Debby and George and they will surely cover all the gound that I have skipped over or just didn't think to write about.

 

View images as slides


Sunday
Oct092011

I set out to walk, with no destination in mind, and wind up at a gas-filled meteor crater; afterward we eat caribou 

Today I stepped out onto the street and started to walk, no destination in mind, curious to see where I might wind up or who I might see.

I had not gone more than 100 feet before Richard and Arlene Glenn pulled up in their truck and invited me to tag along. We went to a few spots, including the landing site where yesterday's whales had been butchered and the boat launching site out towards Point Barrow.

Then we wound up on the Gas Well Road, where we saw this truck coming in the opposite direction. We passed over what looks to the eye to be ordinary, flat Arctic Slope tundra but which is actually the site of a crater where a meteor once blew out a crater about six miles wide. The rubble in the "disturbed" ground left behind in the crater trapped the concentrations of natural gas that now make up a portion of the Barrow Gas Fields, owned by the North Slope Borough, tapped to supply affordable energy to Barrow.

This is Richard, whose Iñupiaq name is Savik, and he is the nephew of Savik, the same Savik whose kitchen table I sit at as I write these words, Savik who opens his house to me as he does to his own blood family. Savik, the nephew, is a geologist and serves as the Vice-President of Lands and Natural Resources for the Arctic Slope Regional Corporation - although right now, his heart is out here, where a new gas development is being produced.

Behind Savik stands the rig drilling the new gas well named Savik #1 and there will also be Savik #2. The well goes down 1000 vertical feet, then turns and is being drilled another 4000 feet horizontally beneath a layer of sandstone that sits atop the field of natural gas it will tap. 

Sandstone crumbles easily and its fragile nature would make it problematic to drill the well straight through to the gas reserves.

Afterwards, Richard and Arlene took me to their house, where we ate rice smothered in caribou gravy, rich with big chunks of meat.

I just now asked Savik the uncle why they named this new well after him.

"I never asked," he answered.

The drilling rig pictured here is owned by Kuukpik, the ANCSA village coporation of Nuiqsut.

 

Saturday
Oct082011

Before the game and the landing of two whales, a fox appeared, followed by a snowy owl

This is the fox, as photographed through a multi-paned, dirty window in the hallway of Barrow High School, where I had gone to meet the Barrow Whaler's football team, which on this day would face Monroe Catholic from Fairbanks - the only team that had beaten them during regular season play.

As the Barrow Whalers football team worked to pysche themselves toward the goal of "redemption" and a victory that if achieved would send them to the state championship game in Chugiak next week, Barrow whalers in boats had set out in motor boats to ply the temporarily ice-free waters of the Chukchi on the first day of the fall whaling season.

This is the owl. Some Barrow Whalers ball players standing nearby speculated that it might swoop down upon the fox, lift it high into the air and then drop it so that it might kill it and eat it, but it didn't.

I am happy to report that the Barrow Whalers football players got their redemption - they defeated Monroe Catholic, 28-14, and will be in Chugiak in one week, where I hope they make history and become the first Barrow football team to win the state championship.

The Barrow whalers plying the sea landed two bowheads - the first by the Aiken crew, who I followed in my book, Gift of the Whale, and the second by the crew of Louis Brower.

I did photograph the game and I did get some whale butchering photos, but I haven't looked at any of them yet and am saving them for the printed page.