A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

All photos and text © Bill Hess, unless otherwise noted 
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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Entries in Hunters (36)

Tuesday
Jul142009

Midnight: one image from today's (and yesterday's) caribou hunt

We headed out onto the tundra about noon yesterday and arrived back in Barrow at close to 6:00 AM this morning with eight caribou - better known as tuttut around here. I type these words at 7:48 AM and at noon I must be at the airport to catch a plane to Point Hope.

I took many pictures and I think I got some good ones, but it will not surprise you to learn that not only have I not had time to examine my take, but it is still downloading with the majority of it left to go.

So this too falls into the queue of backlogged material yet to be posted.

Who knows if I will ever post it? We will see.

The hunters above are Ernest Nageak, closest to the camera, and Kuunniaq. They are studying a large herd of caribou to see how many big bulls they can spot.

Ernest is the son of Roy Nageak, who headed up this hunt. Pamiuq, another of Roy's boys, also came, as did Frank, his 10 year-old grandson. I was most impressed with Frank and if I ever do blog this, I think you will be, too.

He dropped the first caribou of the day with a single bullet from a .223.

It was a long day, and tough in some ways, because, as you can see, the mosquitoes were thick and relentless, but Frank hung it without complaint.

The picture was taken shortly after midnight.

My face and head are sunburned even worse than they go in India, because even though India is hot, the sun comes up and then goes down again pretty quick - even in late spring, nearing the solstice, not much more than 12 hours.

Whereas this time of year, the Arctic sun does not set.

And there is shade in India. There is no shade on the Arctic Slope.

 

Saturday
Jul112009

One image from today's ugruk (bearded seal) hunt

It was the second ugruk hunt that I have been on this trip and both were successful. That's Bennie Hopson of Barrow ready to shoot the rifle and throw the harpoon. His dad, Roy Ahmaogak, is behind me, driving the boat. I have not had a chance to even begin to look at my take, other than to grab this one.

But I will.

And I will share more and will tell the story.

Might be a few days. 

Wednesday
Jul012009

Point Lay Nalukatak: Motion dances and finale (part 10b of 10)

Willard Neakok motion dances.

Lloyd and Bertha Tazruk motion dancing, # 1.

Lloyd and Bertha Tazruk motion dancing, # 2.

Lloyd and Bertha Tazruk motion dancing, # 3.

Lloyd and Bertha Tazruk motion dancing, # 4.

At three years of age, little Elmo is already one of the most popular dancers on the Slope.

 

The young women perform.

Chester Upicksoun,

John Stalker, Willard Neakok and Elmo.

Drums are raised to signal the final dance. In just a few more beats, Point Lay's historic Nalukatak will be over.

 

Tuesday
Jun302009

Point Lay Nalukatak: Fun and lively dance brings the celebration to an end (part 10a of 10)

Not long before midnight, the blanket was brought into the high school gym for the dance. They had thought about doing it outside, but the wind was very cold and the dancers wanted the Elders to be comfortable and enjoy themselves.

Julius Rexford was the first to step onto the blanket and then the Atkaan crew followed. The dance had begun.

The Atkaan crew.

Then came Thomas and the Nukapigak crew.

The Nukapigak crew. The fun dancing would continue for awhile, and then there would be motion dancing - which will be the subject of my next post, which ought to be up within half-an-hour after this one.

The drummers.

During the dance, I was called up and given a high award - because it came from the heart of my good friends in Point Lay. Julius presented and as he did, Thomas grabbed my camera with the wide angle lens and photographed me.

I was not going to toot my own horn here, but Mary Sage of Barrow put a message on Facebook last night and told me I had better post this picture. So here it is. Mary received such an award herself, as did several others who had contributed to the success of Point Lay's first Nalukatak in 72 years.

Saturday
Jun272009

Need to try to get a few hours sleep - hope to find time to post some Point Lay Nalukatak photos Sunday (part 4 of 10)

I just grabbed this photo without even trying to take a look at my take - a take that is, in fact, still downloading and has quite a ways to go. It is Nita, Uavauq, Kuoiqsik, who have just been served "mikigaq" from the Atkaan whale. Mikigaq is fermented whale meat and maktak. Maktak is skin with blubber still attached.

When I got today's first taste, I thought that I had gone to heaven. It was exquisite - so good. Perhaps because I haven't had any for awhile, but I have always loved mikigaq since I first tried it nearly three decades ago  but I don't ever remember it tasting better than it did today.

Remember when, just before noon, I headed toward the Nalukatak grounds and estimated that I would be working out there for the next 12 to 14 hours? Right now, it has been 13 hours and 53 minutes - and I just got back from the shoot.

I must catch a morning Frontier Flying Service flight which will take me almost directly over Wainwright and into Barrow. Once I get to Barrow, I must almost immediately get back on another Frontier flight so that I can fly back to Wainwright. When there was competition among air carriers here, it wasn't like that. You could get on a plane in Point Lay and get off in Wainwright - and that is the fare that you would pay, Wainwright to Point Lay.

Now they make you pay Point Lay to Barrow, then pay the full Barrow to Wainwright fare.

And those fares are much more than they used to be.

It is very aggravating.

I need to get my own airplane again.

That was the best yet.

My hope is that Sunday I can find some time to do pull out some representative images from the Nalukatak that I just covered and post them.

So please come back.