A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Entries from January 1, 2009 - January 31, 2009

Sunday
Jan112009

Taxed! The Liberty Man tells me that it is going to happen again

 

Damn! It's that time of year again - tax time. I know, because I spotted the Liberty Tax Man freezing at the side of the Parks Highway yesterday, just before I went to the Statehood Celebration. I took a picture quick, without looking through the viewfinder, then drove on. I don't know what he's got on under the Uncle Sam costume, but he has no protection for his ears. It's true, the temperature had warmed up dramatically from what it had been, to about zero degrees F (-18 c), but even at that temperature, one's ears will get cold sooner or later.

Especially when a big semi-truck roars by, and blows its wake upon a poor tax mascot who stands by the road with bare ears exposed.

The tax mascots will be out doing a lot of dancing between now and April 15. 

Sometime between now and then, I will stop and talk to one or two of them. 

But not soon. In less than a week, I leave for DC. I have much to do between now and then.

I do not have time to keep this blog, but I am going to keep it anyway.

One photo a day, maybe two; possibly three. I will try to keep it to one.

I won't say much. Just a little bit.

Until I get to Washington, DC. 

Saturday
Jan102009

Wasilla's Mayor Rupright and a few others celebrate 50 years of Alaska Statehood; the fateful drive of the drunken good humor lady recalled

Elsewhere in the state, the 50th Anniversary of Alaska Statehood was celebrated last weekend. Wasilla's event was originally scheduled for last Saturday as well, which would have marked 50 years to the day since President Dwight D. Eisenhower signed the Alaska Statehood Act, but with daytime temperatures ranging from -20 to -30 F, the city decided to postpone one week until today - and then only if the temperature got above -10.

Anchorage went ahead on schedule with its celebration as did Eagle River, midway between here and there, where the temperature would have been about -30. Eagle River even staged a contest to see what dog could drag the heaviest loaded sled across the snow.

When I left my house just before 1:00 PM to meet Margie for lunch today, the temperature here was -27 (-33 C), but I had heard that it was much warmer "downtown." Sure enough, as I drove towards town, I watched the exterior temperature gauge in the new Escape rise and dip as I passed through different pockets of air, but overall it rose and when I reached Wasilla's Main Street it read "0" degrees.

A bit before 3:00 PM, I ventured over to the Celebration site, where the temperature was -3 and found a tiny group of people gathered around a large bonfire. Among them was little girl Olivia, pictured above, who came because her dad works with Parks and Recreation.

It was warm by the fire, and she seemed quite happy to be there.

The man putting his cell phone back into his pocket while talking to a constituent is attorney Verne Rupright, the new Mayor of Wasilla and the first man to hold the job in 12 years. Given that one of his female predecessors was Sarah Palin, many obvious questions arose in my mind, but I figure the poor man must field these questions 80 or 90 times a day, so I decided to give him a break and not ask them.

Another time, perhaps.

What we talked about in casual conversation was the location where we live. Our address is a Wasilla address. We say we live in Wasilla. We pay the same sales taxes to the City of Wasilla as does any Wasillan, but we get no services from the city because, technically, we are outside the city limits.

Many years back, on a hot summer day, I learned just how valuable those services could be. We were in the house when we heard the happy tune of a good humor truck coming down the road. "Daddy!" Lisa, who was still small, piped up excitedly, "can I have some money to buy ice cream?"

So I gave her a dollar or two. She ran out the door and pretty soon came back in again, carrying a large box of chocolate-covered ice cream bars, which were beginning to melt. Lisa said the ice cream lady had given them all to her, but was acting strangely. "I'm scared," she said.

The ice cream lady was still parked in the middle of the road, so I went out to investigate. As I drew near to her, I could see from the slump in her posture and the stupor in her red eyes that the ice cream lady was drunk. I tried to take her keys, but she drove off and crashed on the corner - the same corner where the chicken crossed the road and a pet dog mauled its owners pet rabbit nearly to death.

She was not hurt, but I could not let her drive away. I yanked the keys from the ignition of her good humor truck, which was high-centered on some rocks. Margie called the Wasilla police, but they refused to come. So we called the State Troopers, who had jurisdiction, but it took over an hour for them to arrive. I had to hold the drunken ice-cream lady as my prisoner for all that time.

Mayor Rupright assured me that he is working to improve the situation. Wasilla plans to annex my neighborhood, he said, as well as some other regions of Wasilla that lie beyond the official city limits.

"Your property taxes will go down by two mils and you will receive city services, including police protection," he told me.

See the bearded man standing at the far left in the background? That's Bert Hall, who used to be the director of the North Slope Borough Health Department, headquartered in Barrow. Back when I first knew him, he organized the first golf tournament in Barrow, as part of the city's annual spring festival, held in April.

That tournament commenced in temperatures that were in the mid -30's, so I know there are people here in Wasilla who know how to celebrate in true cold.

Plus, I can remember some pretty cold Iditarod Days, just as cold as last weekend, back when the real race used to start here. Nobody cared about the cold. People were out frolicking, spinning brodies on Wasilla lake in their trucks and cars, eating hotdogs and drinking soda pop.

Of course, by Iditarod time, there is real sun in the sky.

With the sun comes renewed energy. In fact, it comes in a great burst.

I counted 19 people standing in the vicinity of the fire and saw a few more through the open flap of a nearby tent. A handful of children played on the ice rink. It seemed like everyone that I spoke with had come in an official capacity, or was the companion of someone who had.

"It's cold," Mayor Rupright explained.

But it was warm standing by the bonfire. At least on one side. In fact, on one side, it was hot, while on the other side, a bit chilly. Not too bad. Just a bit chilly. And a celebrant could always turn around to warm up the chilled side.

And this is how 50 years of Alaska statehood was celebrated, one week late, right here in Wasilla, Alaska.

Friday
Jan092009

Kalib causes us to go into town late

We had planned to go into town (Anchorage) today and we agreed that we would leave at 11:30, so that we could meet Melanie for lunch at 12:30. In the morning, I did a few things and then when the time neared, I took a shower. 

By the time I was dressed and ready to go, it was 11:30. I went out into the living room, expecting to see Margie and Kalib ready to go, too. But Margie was sitting there, her hair still in curlers, holding a sleeping Kalib against her body. She had not expected him to fall asleep there, as he never had before, but when he did, he felt so good to her that she did not move.

At my urging and with my help - I had to fetch jacket, mittens, booties - Margie finally got Kalib dressed and ready to go. She also freed her hair from the curlers. She did all of this without waking Kalib or getting up from where she sat.

Even now, she was reluctant to go.

But we did go, and along the way there and back, we came upon several scenes like this. The road was covered with the thinnest, nearly invisible, layer of ice. The temperature as we passed through this area was -22, F.

But we traversed them all safely.

Melanie did not mind that we were very late for lunch. 

 

Thursday
Jan082009

Suurimmaanitchuat of Barrow: Another group of Alaskans headed to DC to march in the Inaugural Parade for Barack Obama

I have many pictures of Suurimmaanitchuat dancing, mostly in Barrow at the Kivgiqs that have taken place over the past two decades. Kivgiq, also known as the Messenger Feast, is a great Iñupiat Eskimo celebration of dance, gift-giving and feasting on the real food of the north. Kivgiq was revived in 1988, but its roots are in antiquity.

So I intended to find some of my Kivgiq photos of Suurimmaanitchuat and post them here with this little note about their upcoming trip to Washington, DC where they will march in the Inaugural Parade for Barack Obama. So I typed "Suuri" into my computer's search engine to see what might come up.

None of the Kivgiq pictures appeared - I must have them all stored on disk and out of the computer now - but these five of Suurimmaanitchuat performing at the dedication of the National Museum of the American Indian in September of 2004 did.

This seemed even more appropriate. 

The dancer above is Lia Sakeagak. The temperature at the time was in the 90's - somewhat warmer than it would have been in Barrow.

And this is Alunauq Hepa. 

Darlene Kagak.

This feminine Elvis wearing mukluks is Mae Ahgeak, who spotted the face of the King of Rock 'n' Roll in the mask section of a big store in Anchorage. Now she is the most famous Iñupiat Elvis impersonator in the universe. Dancing to her right is Darlene Kagak and to her left, Molly Pederson and Marie Neakok.

Iñupiat dance always involves invitationals, when all are invited to come and dance with the performers. I am not quite certain how everything will come together in DC, but if they get a chance at any time while they are there, be it immediately after the parade or at some other time, I am certain Suurimmaanitchuat will call up everyone who wants to come up and dance.

So, if any readers happen to be in DC for the Inaugural, keep your eyes and ears open. You will be welcome to join Suurimmaanitchuat in dance. The young man at the forefront is Robert Akpik, Jr.

I'm planning to follow the dancers to shoot some pictures. I will use the images in a Uiñiq magazine that I am working on, but I will also post a few here as well.

 

 

 

Wednesday
Jan072009

Colony Knights Marching Band feeds us spaghetti as part of its quest to march in the Inaugural Parade for Barack Obama

Two of my children, Rex and Lisa, graduated from Colony High, so I was very pleased when I heard that the school's marching band had been invited to march in the inaugural parade for Barack Obama. The fact that Margie, Lisa and I plan to be in DC at that time made me doubly pleased.

Then I learned that this had all happened so fast that the band was still far short of the funds needed to go. They had asked for $15,000 from the Mat-Su school board to help them reach their goal of $50,000, but the board, on a split 3-3 vote, denied the request. Those who opposed it expressed a fear that if they granted the money to the band, then other groups would come along and want special traveling money from them, too.

They made no distinction between an invitation to a Presidential Inauguration and a field trip somewhere.

So, when I learned that the band was holding fundraiser, I decided to go go buy a plate of spaghetti and do at least that little bit to help them get there.

Once I got there, I grabbed a bowl of salad and took a seat at the table right in front of the band. 

As I waited for my spaghetti to arrive, I pointed my camera at the above band members. Not knowing how the evening would turn out, they took a breath and prepared to make music.

They played jazz numbers with with energy and vigor. As they did, more people continued to stream in, to lay down their $10 for a plate of spaghetti to help send the band to DC. It was encouraging, but it would take a lot of spaghetti to make up for the shortfall this band faced.

When they finished the number, they relaxed a bit. Maybe, if there were some really generous people or organizations out there that might go overboard for a plate of spaghetti, they could relax even more.

Among those who had come bearing $10.00 bills was Joy Gifford and her daughter, Dani. Even though her daughter is not a member of the band, Joy wanted to support them because they were her peers and she knew that they would be in for an exceptional, once-in-a-lifetime experience. Dani had participated in another youth program that had taken her into Mediterranean Europe and Joy had saw how it had benefitted her daughter.

Dani came back to Alaska with a broader perspective on life and could better understand world and national affairs. Dani agreed, and noted that she good friends in the band and she wanted to help them get to DC.

Joy also noted that she had not voted for Obama, but that didn't matter. His Inauguration will be a very special moment in American history, she explained, adding that she is happy that the United States has reached a point in its development where a majority of the people could elect an African American.

"These students will witness this first hand. They will remember it for the rest of the their lives," she said.

The fundraiser was held at the Palmer Elk's club, which happens to be located in Wasilla at Barry's Resort on the edge of Finger Lake.

Colony High itself is like that. Some of the students live in Palmer, some in Wasilla.

The room where the fundraiser was held was lined with artwork and various items, part of a "silent auction" to reach beyond the fund-raising limits of spaghetti.

Once their instruments were put away, the Colony Knights Marching Band got an exceptionally pleasant surprise. See the lady holding the check on the left? That is Cheryl Riggs of the Mat-Su Health Foundation. The check is for $10,000 and comes from various pools of discretionary funds within the board's budget.

What could be more healthy for a young person than to march in a Presidential Inauguration parade? Other contributing board members include: Jack Williams, Larry Tallman, Terry Namtvedt, Linda Menard, Paul DuClos, Jr, Stacie Stigar and Deborah Prator.

The second check was presented by the gentleman standing at left, Bill Allen, Palmer City Manager. It is for $1000, from the City of Palmer.

The Rasmuson Foundation donated $2000.

All totaled, adding in spaghetti and silent auction funds, the night brought in about $17,000.

First, I apologize for not naming these girls, members of the band who can also sing. I should have written their names down last night, but I thought that today I would just email the photos to a source who would know and get all the students named.

It didn't work.

But they sang beautifully, and here the song is "Moon River."

To me, one of the most poignant and saddest - perhaps the very saddest - movie moments was in "Breakfast at Tiffany's" when Audrey Hepburn picked up a guitar and sang "Moon River."

But I side-track myself.  

The same scene from a little further back.

 

 

 

 

The lady in red is the person who headed up the fundraising effort: Lynn Gattis, Secretary of the Knights Music Boosters.

It appears to me that she did a pretty good job.

You can find the Knights Music Boosters website here.

 

 

 

 

 

And there is another group of Alaskans who will march in the Inaugural Parade:

Suurimmaanitchuat of Barrow

I will post some pictures of Suurimmaanitchuat tomorrow.