A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

All photos and text © Bill Hess, unless otherwise noted 
All support is appreciated
Bill Hess's other sites
Search
Navigation
Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

Blog archive
Blog arhive - page view
Saturday
Nov202010

The Elders and Youth Conference Eskimo Dance: At 89, Edith had not danced for 15 years, but last night she did

The elders and youth conference ended last night with an Eskimo dance held at Ipalook Elementary School in Barrow. Among the drummers was Vernon Elavgak, who was featured on this blog in September on Cross Island when he helped to apply the skin from the liver of a bowhead whale to a drum frame.

The first to step onto the floor and begin to dance was Billy Kenton.

Eighty-nine year-old Edith Rowry had not danced in 15 years, but last night she did. She was born and raised in Barrow in the Panegeo family but long ago moved to Santa Cruz, California, with her husband. After she danced, she told me that she had come back to Barrow for a variety of reasons, but mostly because she wanted to dance Iñupiat style again.

"I enjoyed it," she said. "It made me feel so good."

Edith Rowry, feeling good, enjoying the dance.

Afterwards, she accepted a "welcome home" hug from Savik Ahmaogak.

Edith smiles for the crowd - which, thanks to a basketball tournament being held at Hopson Middle School was a little smaller than it otherwise would have been. It was an enthusiastic crowd.

Kennedy Elavgak follows the motions his older brother, David, at right. Freddy Okakok.

Charlie Elavgak motion dances.

Molly Kignak carries a young dancer who has worked up a sweat.

Molly exhanges smiles with Elaine Solomon.

Jane Brower leads a women's kneeling dance.

Molly Hopson during kneeling dance.

Isabelle Elavgak, mother of Kennedy. Isabelle is a founder of Tagiugmiut, a dance group that with the help of doctors Aaron Fox and Chie Sakakibara, has brought life back to a set of songs and dances originally recorded by Laura Bolton in 1946.

Young people enjoy an invitational fun dance.

Christina Aiken and her son, Marchie.

 

I hope to publish a summary of the Uqapiaqta!! Lets Speak in Iñupiaq Elders and Youth Conference on Monday, but I am having horrendous problems with my laptop computer. Due to flashing lines, images that hop rapidly up and down and colors that reverse themselves, I can hardly see my pictures when I edit and process them, I am finding it very difficult to blog.

It took four times as long to put this up as it should have and the number of images that I had to sort through was small compared to those from the conference itself. Still, I will try. I will come up with something.

View images as slide show

they will appear larger and look better

Friday
Nov192010

Barrow's final sunrise/sunset of 2010: five views

This is the view from Browerville during yesterday's lunch hour, looking directly south across the middle lagoon at the rising/setting sun. While the sun did rise above what would be the horizon on a perfectly clear day, it did not manage to make it above the low band of clouds to the south. During the half hour or so that it was up, I took a slow walk along and near the lagoon.

Now the sun will be gone from Barrow until January 22.

View # Two.

View # 3.

View # 4: that is the Piuraagvik Rec Center to left and the Yupiqpak ice-skating arena to the right.

I am in Barrow for the Uqapiaqta! Let's Speak in Iñupiaq! Elders and Youth Conference. Very near to the end of today's final session, Helen Peetook of Wainwright said this:

"I don't think we have much time to live in this earth. Like the song says, this is not my home, I'm just passing through."

We pass hard through such beauty, and so briefly.

 

View images as slide show

Thursday
Nov182010

Transitions: Wasilla to Barrow

Not so long ago, I was in Wasilla. And on the last Sunday that I spent there, Margie and I took an afternoon drive. We past by this church on Shrock Road, which apparently was having its grand opening. It has been under construction for a long time.

Not long after that, I was sitting in a middle seat in a jet airplane between two big guys, flying north, Denali to the west.

And now I am in Barrow, where the temperatures are very mild for this time of year, but it has been windy, blizzardy. This morning, the effort to keep the roads clear was constant.

Even so, I heard several reports on the VHF radio about cars being stuck in drifts here and there. All flights in and out of Barrow had been canceled.

For people driving snowmachines, the drifting snow didn't matter much.

Tuesday
Nov162010

I get an invitation to the set for "Everybody Loves Whales" and find that I have been there since the beginning - I wonder, what if?

Anyone whose memory reaches back to October, 1988, will remember The Great Gray Whale Rescue that took place on the sea ice near Point Barrow. For those whose memories do not reach back that far and who may not have heard of the event, freezeup came early that year and my friend, Roy Ahmaogak, found three young gray whales trapped in three small holes in slush ice that would soon harden.

What unfolded thereafter was the strangest, most bizarre, wonderful, nightmarish, magnificent, dreamy, spectacle of human good will, pettiness, compassion, selfishness, ingenuity, brutally competitive, cooperative display of kindness and love that I have witnessed - and it was driven by the fact that Everybody Loves Whales.

A most unlikely coalition of Iñupiat whale hunters, the oil industry, Greenpeace, the National Guard, the Reagan White House and the Soviet Union, plus a myriad of ordinary people from all over, came together to try and rescue those three whales.

For two weeks, all the other big stories of the world, including the heated political battle between George H.W. Bush and Michael Dukakis to become the next President of the United States, receded into background noise.

Media from around the world poured into Barrow as the concern and attention of an entire planet of people became focused on those three whales and the efforts to save them.

And I had a front row seat to the drama. I guess I was part of the drama, as I may have been the first person to photograph those whales and I was absolutely the first media person to do so. I alone photographed the first human contact with the whales and the resultant images got onto AP and became the first images of the rescue to be seen in the world's newspapers.

Now, just over 22 years later, Universal Pictures is making a movie based on the rescue, directed by Ken Kwapis, starring Drew Barrymore, John Krasinski, Dermot Mulroney, Ted Danson with a supporting cast of Iñupiat and Yup'ik actors and extras, led by John Pingayak who plays a character loosely based upon the legendary Malik.

Among these actors is my good friend, Art Oommittuk, who has developed a firm relationship with Kwapis. 

A couple of weeks ago, Art suggested to Kwapis that he invite me onto the set for Everybody Loves Whales. Kwapis had spent time with my book, Gift of the Whale: The Iñupiat Bowhead Hunt, A Sacred Tradtion, and told Art that he definitely wanted that to happen.

So the invitation came. On Saturday, I was able to accept it.

When I stepped onto the set, I experienced Deja Vu to the extreme. There, in a small area in front of me, was a whale hole on a flat pan of ice rimmed by pressure ridges. When I turned and looked in the other direction, there was a section of downtown Barrow, painted in the very colors that I remember from 22 years ago. It looked so real that I kept wanting to climb the stairs up to Pepe's, go inside, and order some tacos.

I had not been on the scene for more than one minute when Art spotted me and waved. He couldn't come right over, because they were shooting a scene simulating the reaction of the whalers and other rescuers as the Soviet ice breakers rammed the ice nearby. Of course, I wanted to photograph this, but Universal Pictures does not allow any but their own official still photographers to photograph such scenes, so I had to stand with my camera hanging useless at my side and just observe.

After several takes, they took a short break and Art introduced me to Kwapis.

This is them - Art Oomittuk, Iñupiat hunter, artist extraordinaire and now actor, with Ken Kwapis, renowned movie director. He came across to me as a very down to earth individual. He looked like he could have been comfortable on the real ice off Barrow. I could see that he had genuine respect for Art and that he was truly interested in anything I might have to say.

Kwapis said he had been through my book many times, and that it had played a significant role in guiding them as they created the stage for the movie.

This is Hope Parrish, set designer, holding her copy of my book, Gift of the Whale, which she asked me to autograph. As you can see, it is well marked with yellow stickies and it is the most dog-eared copy of the book that I have signed.

She told me that it had been invaluable to her, to many people working on the film, that it was the primary reference for recreating the visuals of the rescue.

The reason that I have lightened, blurred, and distorted the background is because it shows a portion of that part of the set that shows Pepe's renamed, along with a portion of the Top of the World Hotel. Universal Pictures does not want anyone to show pictures of their set to the world just yet. They want the set to be seen for the first time in the trailers that will precede the expected release in early January, 2012.

I got mixed signals about how Universal might react to seeing this small portion of the set off in the background. Some thought it would not be a problem. Some thought it would.

So I decided just to blur and distort it, for now. 

Once the movie is released and I do the big series of Gray Whale Rescue blog posts that I plan to publish then, I will post the undoctored version.

We were soon joined by Sarah Regan, who also had a copy for me to sign.

An airplane flew overhead.

Ossie Kairaiuak, a well-known singer and performer in these parts, and David sing a few bars in Iñupiaq of a piece that several of the Native actors on the set spontaneously came up with one day. They were filmed performing and the song is expected to be included in the movie.

Of all the stories that anybody has ever told me regarding their experience with Gift of the Whale, none have moved me more than David's. David has roots in Point Hope, but grew up in Palmer. After he read Gift of the Whale, he decided that he had to go back to Point Hope and go whaling. He did. 

He loved the way the experience connected him to his people. He plans to keep doing it.

This is Sarah Conliffe, who I met in the warmup room, where there is much good food to eat, from fresh raspberries and blueberries to peta wraps, delicately braised slivers of beef, rolls, coffee and tea.

Sarah is the costume designer and she, too, wanted me to sign her book.

She, too, described it as an invaluable resource to her - her costume Bible - I believe she said.

Unless I am getting her words mixed up with Parrish's.

I feel like maybe I am coming across as arrogant and boastful, here, and letting all this go to my head.

But it's how it happened.

I was also told that Universal did not want anyone to publish photos of the star actors taken on the set, but that it would be okay if I got personal pictures of my friends in a way that did not really show the set or the big stars.

I was in the process of taking just such a picture when one of the big name actors saw what was going on and jumped right into the middle of the picture.

Again, I got some conflicting advise - some thought it would be okay for me to publish the picture straight, some thought maybe not - so I did it like this. I could make it look better, but I have to catch a plane to Barrow, where, as usual, I will be staying with my friend, Roy Ahmaogak, the man whose discovery launched the episode that led to this movie.

Please come back after the movie is released and then I will show you who the actor in this picture is.

This is Reynolds Anderson, assistant to Ken Kwapis. It was she who met me after I reached the set and who served as my guide for the first hour or two that I was there.

I felt very badly for her at times, as she spent a lot of time just standing patiently by while I talked to other people. Plus, although the day was very warm for this place this time of year, it was not at all warm to a young woman from Southern California.

A young bald eagle flew over head.

This is cinematographer John Bailey. He also came across to me as being a very down to earth, curious, helpful person and he took the time to talk with me over several breaks.

He, too, had kind things to say about my book - and he gave me an idea and said he would help me with it in the future. I have learned never to get my hopes too high about anything until it actually happens, but it sounded good, so I will take him up on that and see if it can be made into anything.

This is Nelson, who also has been doing set work. He showed me a picture from my book that I had taken inside a home where women were sewing skins and told me how he had worked off that picture to create a living room that will appear in the movie. It will not exactly the same, but the element will be there.

I autographed his book, too.

I feel badly, and I thought I entered it into my iPhone, but I cannot remember the name of the woman with him. She also has my book, but did not have it with her. Others told me the same.

To the left is Sandra Murray, who turned the tables on me and interviewed me about my experience during the rescue. Whatever parts of the interview they might find worthy will be incorporated into the DVD and HBO package of the film. Jeff Feller manned the camera and Paul Lawrence handled the sound.

After the interview I hoped in a white van that took me to place where a cajun lunch was being served. I met Heidi there. She had papers for me to sign, stating that it was ok for them to use the interview in their package.

And now, the what if:

Everyone that I met on the set treated me wonderfully. It was flattering and it was good to see that they had been impacted by my work as a team and as individuals and had found inspiration and guidance in it to help them carry their own work forward.

This felt good to me - and it was fun. Yet, I cannot help but wonder, what if?

After my book was released, my publisher, Sasquatch Books, attempted to sell the movie rights to it in Hollywood, but the effort didn't pan out. Later, my niece, Shaela Cook, who is making a career in Hollywood, decided that she wanted to make a movie based on Gift of the Whale.

She worked hard at it, and presented it to various people in Hollywood and got some responses that were, at first, encouraging, but that ultimately led to nothing.

So what if?

What if either of these efforts had succeeded?

The story Hollywood settled upon is a love story, based loosely on one that actually happened during the rescue, one that was written up in another book.

I am not certain about this, but I understand that a photographer also plays a significant role in the film - a photographer who documented the rescue effort from beginning to end. I am not certain if this is a still photographer or a video photographer - or even if there truly is such a character - but there was only one photographer of any kind who was there at the beginning and at the end of the gray whale drama, and that was me.

Many others, from all over the world, joined in between the beginning and end points. But I am the only one who shot the beginning, the middle, and the end. The only one.

So what if it had been my book that had been made the focus of the story?

There is a pretty good chance that I would now have the necessary resources to spend a year or so trying to figure out how to build this blog and its evolution into what I would like it to become.

That's what if.

But it did not happen that way. There is no point in lamenting.

So, when the movie is released, I will go and enjoy. It will not matter to me that the story is a different story than the one that I saw unfold. I will enjoy it.  I have this feeling that the movie is going to be good - perhaps even excellent, a huge hit. I will take Margie and we will eat popcorn, and chocolate covered peanuts.

The movie will give me an excuse to do what I always wanted to do but never did - to tell the gray whale rescue story indepth, as I saw and experienced it. I did not tell it in depth in Gift of the Whale, because I had space enough only to devote one chapter to it.

There will be space enough in this blog - or whatever this blog has evolved into by then. I will spread the telling out over two weeks - the same approximate time as it took for the rescue effort to unfold.

I will tell the story then - in early January, 2012, or whenever the movie is released.

So please come back then.

 

The bridge above, by the way, crosses over the place where the van took me for the Cajun lunch, which was excellent. I saw Art and some of friends in there and was going to join them, but the publicist asked me to join him, as he had many questions for me.

I did my best to answer all of them.

 

View images as slide show

they will appear larger and look better

 

Monday
Nov152010

Lisa Kelly, Ice Road Trucker and driver of India's most dangerous road, pulls up to Metro Cafe on horseback - followed by CNN

In answer to Saturday's quiz, I was hanging out at Metro Cafe on Friday when I heard someone shout, "horses are coming!"

I stepped out the door and this is what I saw - five women on horseback, coming down the bike trail. One of them, the second one from the left, looked like a truck driver. In fact, she looked like a truck driver who I had seen but a few nights before, on TV, facing terror on a narrow, windy, highway twisting through the Himalaya Mountains in India.

I seldom watch much TV, but this show caught my eye, because I have experienced the deadly madness of the Indian highway - although never in the Himalayas - and also because the truck driver was a beautiful, petite, young woman by the name of Lisa Kelly who lives right here in Wasilla, Alaska.

In fact, what I did not know at the time is that she lives right here, in my own neighborhood.

She gained her fame as one of Alaska's Ice Road Truckers, which has evolved to encompass the Deadliest Roads of all the world.

Now here Lisa was, riding her horse down the bike trail that passes by Metro Cafe.

Would she turn in?

Would she pull her horse right up to the drive through window and order hot chocolate for herself and a biscuit for her horse?

Lisa Kelly did pull in! And here she is, waiting in line at the drive-through with her friends and horses while Nola delivers an order to the customer ahead of her.

Sure enough, the horse ordered a biscuit. "Do we have any horse biscuits?" Nola shouted, "There's a horse at my window who has just ordered a biscuit!"*

Nola found a biscuit and served it to Sky, the horse.

"Damn good!" the horse neighed, after devouring the biscuit. "Now give me that one, too!"** Nola did. The horses behind would also all get their biscuits.

Camera and production people working on contract for CNN were following Lisa. I don't know when, but CNN plan to do a little story in which they follow Lisa as she takes them to her favorite places in Wasilla.

One of those favorite places is Metro Cafe. Another is Fat Boy's Pizza, which sits in the opposite direction from my house.

I bought a pizza there on the day Fat Boy's opened. If Fat Boy's is now one of the favorite places of the famous ice road trucker, Lisa Kelly, they must have figured out how to do it.

Sometime after I get back from my next trip to the Arctic Slope, I will go back and give them another try.

"Wasilla is MY city," she tells the camera people here, "and Metro Cafe is one of my favorite places!"

If one is going to sip on hot chocolate at Metro Cafe, it is more pleasant to sit and sip inside, rather than outside, in the saddle, on horse back.

Lisa... I will not tell you to stay safe out on those roads you drive. That is impossible and would defeat the whole purpose of your adventures. But please, always, do come safely home.

Outside, I had chatted briefly with photographer David A. Van Amber of Mankato, Minnesota. When I asked him who he was working for, he answered, "I'm hers," and nodded toward Linda Kelly.

I inquired a little further, and learned that this meant he was her photographer only, and that she is married.

Inside Metro, in what appeared to be an inside joke, he touched her on the shoulder and then they broke laughing.

Lisa autographs a baseball cap for David.

The cameraman depicts hard-working barista and writer in the making, Shoshana, making a smoothie.

When not out on the ice roads or the Himalayan highways, Lisa says she drops into Metro Cafe about three times a week. Hot chocolate and cinnamon rolls are her favorite.

She likes to come to Metro, she says, because, "sometimes you just want to go to a place where everybody knows your name."

When she said that, for some reason, I began to hear the theme song from Cheers in my head.

And it was a fact - every single person in Metro Cafe knew Lisa Kelly by name.

Lisa and Carmen.

Scott's dad is a truck driver and he drives Kenworth - the same kind of rig that Lisa drives. When he learned that she was a regular at Metro, he asked Scott to be sure to get a photo of Lisa with Carmen and him and send to him.

So, Scott's dad, this is for you.

My printer is broken and I am about to leave to the Far North for a couple of weeks or so, so it will be awhile before I can make a print.

Then I went back outside and to create one of my famous "Through the Metro window" studies with Lisa, Carmen, Scott, Nola and the crew that recorded her visit for CNN. I am afraid I did not get everybody's name, but the fellow at right is Russell J. Weston, of Weston Productions out of Anchorage, who contracted with CNN.

It had been decades since I had last seen him, but I first met him nearly 30 years ago when he was working as a photographer for the Anchorage Times and my family and I were living in two small tents, which we pitched here and there, trying to find a way to survive in Alaska.

There were three newspapers in Anchorage then and so whenever we would run out of money to buy gas for the Volkswagen Rabbit that had transported us from Arizona to Alaska, or food, I would stop in at the different papers.

If they had any extra assignments that staff had been unable to fill, I would take them and then they would pay me $25.00 per published shot.

That's how I met Russell, who is now an independent "An Emmy Award Winner" producer.

He gave his card and it says so right on it.

So here you have it:

Through the Metro Window Study, #3,444,899.23: With Lisa Kelly and CNN

And here is Scott.

Regular readers will recall the post when, after learning that he had cancer, Scott told me that in building Metro Cafe, he had created a stage for Carmen, that it was she who worked the magic that brought the stage and the plays that unfold therein to life.

On this day, another such play had unfolded on the stage that Scott had built for his beautiful and vivacious wife, Carmen.

So here is Scott, alongside the stage that he built.

As for Carmen, when I returned to the drive-through window at 4:00 PM for my regular, we talked a bit about the flurry of activity from earlier in the day.

"It will be very good for Metro Cafe," I assured her.

She remembered when Scott and she had opened the cafe, how much fun it had been and that now, what she wants, more than anything, more than publicity and success in business, is for Scott to get well.

That's it. She wants Scott to be well.

 

 

*Sometimes, when a quote cannot be precisely remembered, it must be made up. I am not saying that this is the case here, only that sometimes it happens.

**This is a definite, definite, quote, not made up at all. These are the very words that Sky the horse spoke.

 

View images as slide show

They will appear larger and look better