A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Monday
Oct262009

Wandering about AFN, part 4:* Pilot, artists, activists, war hero and more

This is Hugh Patkotak, Iñupiat, North Slope Borough Search and Rescue pilot. I have been fortunate to tag along with him a few times. Once, we were out during an overcast day on a search for some ladies who got lost on the tundra. It was white above, white below, white straight ahead, white all around.

Hugh and his spotter found the women. They were out of gas and were cold and a bit shook up, but were fine. Back at the airport, when their families came to pick them up, there were hugs and tears.

The lady in front is Desa Jacobson, who has conducted long-term fasts in which she has limited herself to coffee and water. She has fasted for subsistence rights and in an effort to try to bring justice to a man who, in the days that she lay dead and undiscovered, had brought friends by to view the body of a Native woman whom he boasted that he had raped and killed.

He was acquitted. This past year, he was charged with the murder of a female neighbor.

Here, Jacobson holds the petition for which she is gathering signatures in a bid to become Alaska's next governor. She was very pleased with the success of her efforts so far - especially that Ethan Berkowitz, who she expects to run against, had signed her petition.

"I"m going to win, too!" she assured me.

The boy walking past in the background is Josiah Patkotak, Iñupiat of Barrow, who I had earlier interviewed for the project that I am working on. He has jumped into politics, too, and was voted in to be the Arctic Slope youth representative to the First Alaskans Elders and Youth Conference, held on Monday and Tuesday of last week.

My friend, Rose Albert, the first Native woman to run the Iditarod and, as I have stated before, in my opinion, Alaska's best Iditarod artist. 

Jim Barker, one of Alaska's truly great photographers. His book, Always Getting Ready, is the classic work on the life of the Yup'ik of Southwest Alaska. He was the official AFN photographer.

Mark Hoover of the Native Village of Eyak, who has one of the largest collections of blues, rock and roll, folk and other kinds of music that I have ever seen.

He likes to hang out with eagles and ravens. He has rescued a number of injured ravens, restored them to health and then turned them free again.

One time I was riding in his truck with him and a one-eyed raven that he had rescued and was nursing back to health when the raven flapped around a bit and then landed on my head. 

And who is this? Why, it's my own beloved daughter-in-law, Lavina, Navajo, with her friend, Steffers, Iñupiat. Lavina bought the little mukluks for our second grandchild, who still floats in her/his mother's womb. 

Jody Potts, Athabascan, and her son, whose name I forget. Sorry. I first met Jody in 1998 in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, where she was competing for the title of Miss National Congress of American Indians. She won. Now she lives in the ruggedly beautiful Copper River Valley Community of Kenny Lake.

John Waghiyi had come from Savoonga on St. Lawrence Island to sell ivory and other art work produced both by himself and many other artists in his village. He told me about a great celebration that his village recently hosted with their relatives and friends who came over from Russia.

The gentleman on the left is Walter Sampson, Iñupiat of NANA. The man with him is John Walsh, who grew up in Nome, but now lives in Juneau and is a lobbiest for many rural organizations. 

As for Walter, I once walked the length of the Vietnam Memorial in Washington, DC, with him and he did shed a few quiet tears.

During his own days as a soldier in Vietnam, Sampson saw his best friend get killed. He once set out to climb a hill with 105 men when they got caught in a u-shaped ambush. At the end of the battle, only 24 still stood - the rest having been killed or injured. 

Once, Sampson was sent to help rescue soldiers whose helicopter had been shot down, but he and his men got pinned down in the fire of two machine guns. Sampson worked his way through the fire and took out the machine guns with a grenade.

In another event, Sampson was carrying a radio when his platoon fell into an ambush. Two men manning the platoon machine gun were quickly killed. “So I handed my radio over to my platoon leader and took the machine gun position and stayed on the machine gun all night.  And life was tough, but I managed to get through.”

Sampson was awarded two bronze stars.

After the war, he turned to alcohol and fell into a miserable way of life, but, with the help of his wife and his God, turned it all around.

I once followed George Woods on a caribou hunting trip outside of Nuiqsut - he driving a snowmachine, me riding in the sled behind. On that same trip, I photographed his wedding. Unfortunately, the marriage didn't last. His wife later relocated to Anchorage, along with his children.

George wanted to be with them, so he recently moved to Anchorage. He doesn't really care for city life, but it is worth it, to be with his children.

I found him and his son, Jonathan (right) and his nephew, Daniel, as they were coming out of Penney's Mall and I going in.

Jonathan recently enlisted in the Army and will soon be inducted.

Rex and Meda Snyder. Meda is the daughter of former North Slope Borough Mayor George Ahmaogak and his wife, Maggie. George was also the first whaling captain to let me follow him out onto the ice and it is he who is on the cover of my book, Gift of the Whale.

Meda was still a girl then, but she quickly grew into an exceptionally beautiful young woman. I wondered who would be the lucky young man to wed her and it was Rex. Again - I stress - I AM NOT A WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHER - but I did photograph their wedding. They have two children, a boy and a girl.

This is the Barrow Dancers, led by Joe Sage. They are doing a whaling dance. The men behind Joe have been paddling the umiak to a whale. Joe now throws the harpoon. 

The whale is killed. They say a prayer.

One of their dances was dedicated to all the women who sewed the skins that cover the umiak skin boats used for the spring hunt. All women who had done so were invited to come up and dance.

 

*While I gave the post just before this the number 1, I should have numbered it three, as the two previous dance-related posts are actually a part of this series. I will put up at least one more, possibly two.

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Reader Comments (4)

I have admired Jim Barker's photos and books for years. I had no idea what he looked like. I should have inquired, but gee, so much going on, so many friends, so little time! Thanks for another fine post.

October 27, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterSylvia

Nice! I've never read your website before, but I've checked it several times in the last few days. What a great AFN series.

October 27, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterGlo Chythlook

The man with Walter Sampson is John Walsh. He grew up in Nome, now lives in Juneau and is a lobbiest for many rural organizations.

October 29, 2009 | Unregistered CommenterHaven Harris

thanks, everybody and Haven, I will put the info into the post for the benefit of anyone who may find this in the future.

October 29, 2009 | Registered CommenterWasilla, Alaska, by 300

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