A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

All photos and text © Bill Hess, unless otherwise noted 
All support is appreciated
Bill Hess's other sites
Search
Navigation
Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

Blog archive
Blog arhive - page view
« Joe the Water Man pours coffee at Pepe's; Emily plays Little Dribblers as she prepares for surgery; Little Alan - his grandfather watches old Barrow movies | Main | I land in Barrow, sit down to make this post only to experience technical difficulties »
Wednesday
Jan202010

Smoked salmon, Trevor Study # 5 and the flight to Barrow; Aarigaa Java (Good Coffee) with the temperature closing in on 40 below

The lady at the baggage counter informed me that the current temperature in Barrow was -33, and then I went through security where a huge man with gigantic hands patted me down. Frankly, I would have been less uncomfortable if it had been a petite woman with small hands.

I then continued on through the concourse toward Gate C-4, when I saw Janey coming in the opposite direction. We stopped to give each other hugs and then she pulled a packed of king salmon, smoked Yup'ik style, out of her bag and gave it to me.

Janey had been in Bethel, where someone had given her a bunch of salmon. When she learned that I was going to Barrow, she wanted to come, too, but she was going south.

The kid sitting by the window is Trevor, who graduated from Wasilla High with Caleb. Over the past few years, I have happened upon him a number of times at airports and in villages where he has gone to work on construction projects.

Even before I started this blog, I kept a photo journal, so I always photographed him and put him in it.

I have enough photos of Trevor to start calling him a study. So I will call this, "Trevor Study, #5" - five being a number I just picked out of the air, because I really don't know how many times I have photographed him so far.

He was on his way to Wainwright, via Barrow, to work on the ongoing water and sewer project there.

I wonder where "Trevor Study, #6" will be photographed?

These two board in Anchorage. They will debark in Fairbanks.

The flight from Anchorage to Fairbanks is only 40 minutes, so they offer you a choice of only two beverages, water or orange juice. I went for the water. I was parched, so I was glad to get that water.

We dropped the Fairbanks people off, picked up a few dozen more passengers, then headed on to Barrow. Now we are about to get off. I am sorry, but I have forgotten their names. 

I join my fellow passengers and debark in Barrow, where the temperature is still - 33. I am a little disappointed. I had hoped it would be colder.

People come from all over the world to drive Taxi's in Barrow. I have had drivers from Latvia, the Middle East, Korean, Phillipines - from all over. This fellow is from Asia and had a strong accent, but I don't know what country.

He dropped me off here, at Roy Ahmaogak's house. Roy is my host and that is his dog, Dawson, who has been around for a long time.

In the summer, Dawson jumps in the boat and goes to caribou and fish camp.

 

This morning when I got up, it was still -33, but then temperature started to drop. I took this picture at 12:30, as I walked to lunch at Osaka, eager to order Bento Box #3, which comes with three pieces of sushi, Terriyaki chicken, miso soup, rice, and a wide array of tempura vegetables and shrimp, plus a pot sticker.

About 3:30, I headed over to Aarigaa Java. "Aarigaa" is the Iñupiat word for "excellent, superb - very good."

"Hi Bill. You want your Americano?" Thelma asked when Noe drove us up to the window. Thelma does not forget, even though it has been six months since I last came to this window.

By now, the temperature was approaching -40 and still dropping.

This caused me to feel better about things.

In the evening, I took a short walk and photographed the steeple of the Utgiaqvik Presbyterian Church. I brought my big DSLR's on this trip, but I did no photography work today so I never got them out.

I stuck with the pocket camera.

No, it can't match the DSLR's in so many ways, but I love the pocket camera. It is so much fun.

 

PrintView Printer Friendly Version

EmailEmail Article to Friend

Reader Comments (14)

I just looked up the satellite view of Barrow. Wow.

Hope the rest of your trip goes well!

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterMartha

looks cold enough for me, have to say i prefer cold over hot though. Have a god stay

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered Commentertwain12

Wow! This is going to be an interesting trip.

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterMichelle

I love your life, except for the cold part. I think I'm exactly the opposite. I thrive in 110 degrees. Sigh.. no Alaska living for me.
Love the steeple, love the coffee shops, even that far north, that remember your name and drink 6 months later. LOVE IT!!!
Um, I'm missing Kalib though.....

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterMikey

i like how you are integrating yourself in more shots...LOVE the church and moon shot...awesome composition. coffee huts in barrow!! who knew! another great post from my favorite blogger!

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterdahli22

I love barrow. I've been there quite a few times for work. It's great to see it again. Isn't Osaka's just GREAT?! They always cater for us when we work there. Pepe's is great because the owner has such an interesting past (as seen in the photos of her displayed in her banquet room). I can't wait to see what you post next. Thank you for sharing.

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterTanyalaska

How cold does it have to get before the dog gets off the chain and indoors?

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterconchscooter

How cold does it have to get before the dog gets off the chain and indoors?

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterconchscooter

How cold does it have to get before the dog gets off the chain and indoors?

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterconchscooter

I'm with conchscooter, when does the dog get off the chain and indoors? LOL

Reading the temp in Barrow at 40 below makes me awfully glad that I spent the day on Maui. And tomorrow. And the next. Visiting family, of course, this is not a superficial nor touristy visit..just here because of family.

At home we have freezing rain and ice glazing everything.

January 20, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterWhiteStone

Martha - Thank you and so far the trip has gone very well.

Thanks Twain.

Michelle - yes, but a short one and not as visually interesting as many of my trips up this way.

Mikey - Well, in a couple of days I will see what I can do about the Kalib part.

Dahli - Why, thank you.

Tanya - To know Barrow is to love Barrow. Some people don't believe that, some don't believe it at all - but its true.

Conchscooter by 3: Keep in mind that Dawson is a genuine husky, recently descended from hard core sled dogs who never spent one day indoors in all their life despite the fact that they lived in places like this when they were even colder than they are now. He's got his little shelter, if he wants it, between Roy's house and Savik's, but he is as suited to his cold environment as the polar bear is to its.

Whitestone - Maui! One day. Wow, you are just having an extreme winter at home, aren't you?

January 20, 2010 | Registered CommenterWasilla, Alaska, by 300

Oh, gosh! Reading the name Roy Ahmaogak was very exciting. I feel like I know him, a little, from your book. I can't wait to see pictures. I think that you should have enough pictures to do a study of Mr. Ahmaogak. And Savik, as well. And it made me laugh. Where ever you go, you're going to find a coffee house.

And, yes, that WhiteStone is having an extreme winter. The lucky duck. Probably surfing too. Just saying, Bill.

January 22, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterdebby

That is Tuuq Okakok zipping up her daughter Sarah's parka, with her son Jeremiah behind her. Hey I'm still identifying pictures for you hehe

January 25, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterMiss Mary

Thanks Mary!

January 28, 2010 | Registered CommenterWasilla, Alaska, by 300

PostPost a New Comment

Enter your information below to add a new comment.
Author Email (optional):
Author URL (optional):
Post:
 
Some HTML allowed: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>