Buddy, a dog from Wasilla, makes good in Barrow; Flossie feeds me a good Iñupiaq lunch
Friday, January 22, 2010 at 4:00AM ;)
As I walked from the far end of the sprawling Barrow neighborhood of Browerville, I passed by the Northern Lights Restaurant. I was hungry, and for a moment I thought maybe I would go in and buy some chow mien or Kung Pao chicken.
What a foolish thought! I was on my way to the home of Roy and Flossie Nageak and I knew that they would feed me - and it would be a bigger, better, meal than I would get in a restaurant. I needed to save room in my tummy for it, so I just walked right by Northern Lights.
Soon, I was sitting on the living room couch. Roy was out for a bit, but Flossie was there and so was Buddy, a half-dalmatian dog that came to Barrow from Wasilla.
Buddy was happy to see me. He wanted to know everything that had happened in Wasilla since he left as a pup, all these many years ago.
When I told him, he simply could not believe it.
I mean, if it wasn't something that we have witnessed, who could possibly believe it?
;)
Roy and Flossie's grandson Amare Roy, a beautiful mix of Iñupiaq and Filipino, was there. He pedaled about as Flossie pulled together the ingredients for a good lunch.
;)
Soon, she called me to the table. Laid before me was bowhead maktak and flipper, frozen caribou, frozen fish and seal oil. That's a frozen grayling that she is cutting with her ulu.
;)
When I was still new to this country, I once took a seat at an Iñupiat table and my hostess asked me if I needed a steak knife. "Yes," I answered, picturing one of those flimsy, serrated things that mainstream America calls steak knifes.
Instead, she sat a big, sturdy-bladed, razor-honed, hunting knife in front of me. This, and even better, an ulu, is the kind of knife it takes to slice up Iñupiaq food. Using what Mainstream America calls a steak knife, you could not possibly cut up the maktak you see on the other side of the knife.
I soon learned to carry a good knife with me at all times. This worked out well for awhile and I stayed well-fed, but then along came international terrorism and tightened airport security. I kept forgetting to take my $50 to $70 folding knives out of my pocket and the good folk of the Transportation Security Administration kept taking those knives away from me.
So now I must borrow a knife whenever I eat an Iñupiaq meal.
I had not had such a meal for awhile. This one was excellent - and the blubber that you see attached to the black skin is not at all like beef fat and it is healthy. It is full of the good kind of chorlesteral. The black skin is rich in Vitamin C.
It is the food of the Arctic, and it is the best food to eat in the Arctic - especially if you want to stay warm.
Plus, my tummy had been feeling irritated for a couple of days. This good, oily, food calmed it down and made it feel much better.
;)
Flossie offers a piece of frozen grayling to Amare, but today he wants a hotdog.
;)
Flossie slices up a hotdog with her ulu and then the three of us chow down. My fingers quickly became too oily to handle my camera, so I put it down.
;)
After we had eaten, Flossie brewed tea.
;)
And cookies go good with tea.
;)
This is what it looked like out the window. The sun has been down now since November 18, but, as you can see, it is on its way back. It will rise for about half-an-hour on Saturday, January 23 - tomorrow. It's time above the horizon will then increase for about 15 minutes a day until midnight on May 10. It will then slide across the northern horizon of the sea ice and then not set again until early August.
Sadly, I will not be able to photograph the return of the sun. Lavina is having labor contractions, more than a month early, and while they are far apart and the hope is she can hold off for another week or more, I am going home. I have accomplished all that I needed to accomplish this trip and, as much as I would like to photograph the returning sun, I want even more to be there when my next grandchild is born.
I want Margie to be there, too, and Mary, Lavina's mom. So I really hope this new baby waits awhile - but, just in case these contractions grow strong and push it out, I am going home so I can be there.
;)
After Roy returned, everybody gathered around my laptop to see a picture spread that I did with images that I took of them last summer.
;)
Roy and Amare, with Flossie in the background.
Reader Comments (9)
Checked the temperature in Barrow using weather.com: -38 F ! Yeow! Is that right?
Had to laugh at weather.com's comment: "We were unable to find any golf courses near your location."
Geez! No golf courses!?
Thanks for the great photos and story. Hoping that Lavina is doing fine. Safe travels to everyone.
The Nageak house looks like a very comfortable place to hang out. I heard once that eating whale flesh actually heats up your body....is that true? thanks for another great post...can't wait to read about your next grandchild!
Kalib's going to have a new brother/ sister.. that's so cool.. Can't wait to see the new baby :)
Amare is such a sweet looking kid.. And perhaps Buddy would like to know about this blog; so that he can keep himself updated on Wasilla news ;)
Awww best wishes to you and Lavina and family for a happy healthy delivery of your new grandbaby. Have a safe trip home.
save travels and i wish Lavina all the best
A most amazing place. And obviously you are a special friend to deserve this wonderful lunch. Not raised with this type of Native food, and fully 800 miles away, I had my first taste of maktak about 10 years ago. I was leery of it at first, but one taste, and I was hooked. I fully understand the craving for it. Those so called "energy drinks" don't hold a candle to what a mouthful of blubber does. Truly, the pictures made my mouth water. Thank you again for sharing your friends, and friendly places.
Prayers with Lavina and the new baby. Hope all is well!
Albert, that is correct. And it could get significantly colder than that, but on the whole, here in Alaska, this has been a very mild and warm winter - so much so that even in Barrow people were thinking it was pretty cold, whereas I have seen past winters when nobody would have seen such temperatures at this time of year as anything but expected. Actually, there is a golf course. A tournament is held each spring on a lagoon. Come break up, the golf course melts and disappears.
Michelle - Thank you.
Dahli - It is a comfortable house. The oils of the whale provide great heating fuel to the body.
Ash - I told Buddy about the blog, but, sadly, he is computer illiterate.
mocha - well, I am late getting to these comments and here I am, already home. So I traveled safely. Thanks.
twain - thanks.
Sylvia - Thank you, glad it made your mouth water. What I forgot to mention is that Flossie packaged up several pounds and I brought it home.
Cynthia - all is well. Thanks. I hope it is for you, too.