A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Sunday
Nov142010

After hanging out in Barrow on the Anchorage waterfront, I pass by a moose on the way to Rex's birthday party; Larry Aiken and Mona

I had spent the day on the Anchorage waterfront, hanging out in Barrow, where I had experienced a great temptation to go into Pepe's and order some tacos, but wound up beneath a bridge, eating Cajun food instead. I know this makes no sense and I do not have time to explain today.

I can't explain tomorrow, because I have already committed tomorrow's post to Friday's mysterious flurry of activity. So I will explain Tuesday - just before I leave for Barrow on the Arctic Coast.

The most important thing about yesterday for this family is that it was Rex's birthday. So I left Barrow on the Anchorage waterfront about 5:15 PM to drive to Jacob and Lavina's, where the family would gather to throw Rex a small celebration.

As I drove over, a moose calf trotted across "C" Street.

I did not see a cow - only this calf. Still, a cow could have been nearby, lurking in the shadows, watching her baby run through traffic.

When I stepped onto the stairs that lead up to the living room, I could see Kalib looking down at me. "Who is that?" I heard Melanie's voice in the background. "Is it Charlie? Is it Uncle Rex?"

No.

It was just me.

Upstairs, I found that everybody in the living room was absorbed in one exciting activity or another.

In the kitchen, I found Lisa and Bryce, eating five can stew. I was already stuffed with the Cajun I had eaten down in Barrow on the Anchorage waterfront, but I ate a little more, anyway.

In time, the birthday boy himself arrived, with Charlie. Rex. Thirty-two years old. Or is it 33? It gets harder and harder to keep track of these kind of things.

This past year - it has been a tough one for him. Hence for us all. The wife that he so loved and adored divorced him.

Yet, things have gotten much better. He now has his new friend, Ama, and he is going to go spend Thanksgiving with her and her family at Lake Tahoe, California.

Afterward, the first week in December, they are going to drive back to Anchorage.

This worries me a little bit.

Have some 60 degree below zero sleeping bags, I told him, plenty of extra blankets, lots of warm clothing and a Coleman heater.

He said they planned to.

I don't know how Jobe got the little scratch between his eyes - probably he scratched himself - but, just before I took this picture, he had done a little crying. The tears had flowed down to his chin and now they were hanging there, in a big drop.

Jobe reminds me a lot of Rex at the same age. Despite the tears, Jobe is almost always happy. He is optimistic, bright and alert. He studies everything around him with wonder and eagerness.

Just like Rex at the same age.

Kalib observes as Bryce lights the candles on the cake that Melanie baked.

Kalib turns away to avoid the oncoming blast of air as Rex prepares to blow out his candles. We were all a little surprised to see Kalib turn away, as he has always seen it as his role to help blow out the candles on anyone's cake.

With one mighty blast, Rex blows out all the candles but one.

Kalib then leans forward to blow out that one last candle. I guess he was just waiting for the right moment, when his breath could make the greatest impact.

Caleb helps Kalib devour cake and ice cream. I sure didn't need any, but I ate some, anyway.

I missed where it was that they found them, but Melanie and Charlie gave Rex a set of Star Wars glasses from the year 1980. Rex, for those who don't know, Rex grew up with Star Wars and is a huge and loving fan.

A better gift I cannot imagine.

Muzzy had been out on the back porch, complaining. So Jacob let him in. You see no pictures of Lavina in this post, because she was flying home from Nome.

They are watching a video about a kitten getting wrapped up in paper.

Shortly after the party began, it ended, because these three had a rock concert to go to.

Then, leaving Margie with Jacob and the grandsons, I set out to pay a visit to Larry and Mona. I soon came upon this scene, where someone had been rear-ended badly.

I found Larry playing an online video game with a friend in Barrow. This has been a challenging week for Larry. His treatment has sometimes been painful and has often left him exhausted. Yet, whenever I see him, his spirits are good. His desire to do whatever it takes to live is strong.

He had been reading a book written by a cancer survivor who faced a similar ordeal to the one he is going through. Part of what got her through her treatment was the natural food of indigenous societies. 

One of the best foods of all was salmon, rich in oil, skin and all.

Larry took a break while Mona got on the computer to search for nearby places that might have some good, oily, salmon.

Afterward, I drove them to Carr's, where they bought some smoked salmon.

On his Facebook page, Larry says this:

"Today I have cancer and pray everynight that I wake up each morning and when I do I pray and thank God..I think of my family, father, mother and sisters that I love very much... and I do think of my nephews and nieces too and they belong in my heart."

I then returned to pick Margie up and bring her home for the first time in six days. I found Kalib throwing a ball at his dad and brother.

I then drove Margie home. We reached downtown Wasilla at the same time as did this train, but we passed it in the dark and were soon ahead of it. This upset me and left me hoping that we would have to stop at a red light. My wish was granted. The train caught us there, rolled into the light of the intersection, and chugged on towards Fairbanks.

Truly, this was one of life's good moments.

 

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Reader Comments (8)

As usual Bill, and appreciated, don't you forget, is that you can pack so much into one blog post. Always enjoy reading!

(what concert?)

November 14, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterMichelle

Happy birthday Rex!!! I hope you had a wonderful day(looks like a great time with family) and Iife brings you nothing but happiness!

My heart just breaks reading about Larry, but his positive spirit will serve him well in this battle. I just hate cancer so much, and what it does to those we love. My dad would have been 63 ys old on Nov.12th but because of cancer he isnt here with us to celebrate anything anymore.

Please tell Larry that he has many, many folks he has never met thinking of him and sending happy, healthy thoughts his way.

November 14, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterLisa J

When i first saw the smiling photo of Rex...i thought it was you Bill with a darker beard! I love these photos!

November 14, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterdahli22

Happy birthday, Rex. Wow, you are the same age as MacLean. there is even a lot of resemblence when you wear your hat. Be safe when you drive back to Anchorage.

November 14, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterMac

Muzzy's head could probably support a planetary system.

November 14, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterLisa H.

Happy birthday Rex!

And Bill? It's Monday. The mystery must be revealed!

November 15, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterdebby

Bill it was great to see you in Barrow, Im glad you made it, was sad to see you at another table eating cajun food..... Now you have to explain!!! Take care.... Art

November 15, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterOthniel Oomittuk Jr

Ah, Rex is definitely your son. The resemblance is striking. And what is going on with all the fine beards in the family? Keeping your faces warm in the cold Alaskan winters? Or is everyone heading to the competition in Norway? I think, you must.

November 16, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterShaela

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