A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Wednesday
Dec082010

Goodbye, Warren Matumeak - part 1: A gathering at his house

I am a couple of days behind, but I will pick up where I left off and try to catch up by the weekend. As friends and readers know, I had come to Barrow for the funeral of Warren Matumeak, a good man. He was buried yesterday following a funeral that, despite the bitter pain of loss, was truly beautiful and sweet. How could it have been otherwise, given the beautiful and productive life that Warren lived?

Despite the fact that the sun has not risen since November 18 and will not rise again until January 22, by Monday noon, shortly after I arrived in Barrow, the southern sky was aglow with that soft combination of dusk and twilight that exists only in the polar latitudes.

I set out to walk to the Matumeak home, and soon came upon Max Ahgeak's umiak frame, where it awaits the spring. Beyond it were two graveyards, a small, family, one on this side of the middle lagoon and the large community cemetery, where Warren would be buried, on the other.

I stopped to take this picture. It did not dawn on me until later that the brightly lit spot across the lagoon, just over the middle of the crosses to left, was where family and friends were just now finishing up the hard task of digging Warren's grave in the Barrow permafrost.

I was hungry when I arrived, but was quickly offered hot soup, frozen whale meat, maktak, and hot dogs. I partook of it all and it was all good. Sitting across from me was Josie Kaleak and her daughter, Michelle.

Ora Elavgak and her son, Asa, soon sat down with us.

Darlene Kagak, one of Warren's daughters, sat down at the table to look through recent pictures of her father on her iPhone in the hope that they could find a good one for the bulletin. She was joined by her sister, Alice, her husband Jacob and Warren's granddaughter-in-law, Nancy Akpik with baby Carly.

Soon, the friends and family who had just completed digging the grave began to arrive. They had been working in - 20 F. weather with a strong wind blowing. They were hungry and ready to warm up. Darlene received a hug from her nephew, Sakeagak.

And another hug from her nephew, John Titus.

As those who had been digging the grave sat down to eat, Darleen hugged her brother, Peter Matumeak. 

Knowing that her father could use a hot cup of tea, Warren's greatgrandaughter, Carly, brought a hot thermos to dad Tommy Akpik.

However hard it may be,many things must be done before a loved one can be buried. Alice showed two poems that the family planned to put in the bulletin for Warren's funeral. One was a poem dedicated to Warren, the grandfather - "Aapa" - the other to Warren, the Dad.

The house was filled with gospel music, brought into it through a recording of the Native Musicale, a celebration of Gospel music that takes place in Anchorage every year in late February-early March. I do not know what year the recording was from, but many of older the performers featured in it have passed on themselves and some of the children singers are now adults, so it was awhile back.

As people visited, I noticed a beautiful cloud beyond the window, backlit by the dusk/twilight.

I stepped onto Warren's porch to take a picture of that cloud. Many people have the idea that once the sun goes down for the season, it is pitch dark here all the time.

As you can see, that is not true. Sometimes, a full moon will appear and the northern lights will glimmer, glow and dance in the sky.

I have not yet seen the lights this season, but have heard reports of them.

Warren's youngest daughter, Annie Luafulu, cradles her baby, Theresa Luafulu.

Darlene found a picture of her father for the bulletin cover, and another of her father and late mother, Martha.

Jacob thanked all those who had dug the grave, and those who had helped in many other ways.

Having had almost no sleep the night before, and very little for the previous painful weeks, I was extremely tired. Jacob invited me to come next door to his and Darlene's house and to nap on the couch. I did, and dozed into and out of a sleep that I felt that I wanted to stay in forever.

Not long after I awoke, Jacob's daughter, Nancy Grant, who lives with her husband in Oregon, came in. She and her dad exchanged hugs as they spoke of their love for Warren Matumeak, and for each other.

This story will continue, but it will take me some significant time to get the next part together. To give myself that time, I will keep this post into Thursday afternoon and will then put up a happy, quick and easy one covering a visit Santa Claus made to Barrow the other night. 

Then I will return and do my best to pay Warren the respect that he deserves.

 

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