A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

All photos and text © Bill Hess, unless otherwise noted 
All support is appreciated
Bill Hess's other sites
Search
Navigation
Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

Blog archive
Blog arhive - page view
« ICC Nuuk, Greenland, part 2: Launch of the Inuit Film Festival | Main | Two people met enroute - one likes to hunt, fish and install elevators... »
Monday
Jun282010

Getting there - two flights from Copenhagen to Nuuk

After falling so far behind on sleep, I hung up my Skype call with Margie, and went to bed in my Copenhagen hotel at midnight, but I was so afraid that I might somehow oversleep that I hardly got a wink. I finally just gave up at 4:30 and got up.

Later, as I waited to board the first flight of the two that would take me to Nuuk, Greenland, I saw a man wearing a red cap with the word, "Russia," on it. This is he, Sasha Eynetegin Alexandar, standing with Tatyiana Achirigina. Sasha is an artist known for his walrus ivory carvings and he lives in Lavrentia, Chukotka.

Tatyiana is the Vice President of ICC Russia and the leader of this year's Russian delegation. She is a journalist from Providenyia, who I had met before when she had come to Barrow to observe a convention of the Alaska Eskimo Whaling Commission. She reminded me that I had taken some picture back then of her and the other Russians who had come and told me she wants them. So I have another task to perform sometime after I get home.

The first leg of our Air Greenland flight took us over Norway, enroute to Kangerlussuaq, one of only two civilian airports in Greenland with a runway long enough to accommodate large commercial air carriers.

As it was a four-and-a-half hour flight, I eventually had to undo my seat belt and head for the restroom. As I waited in line, a little girl fell off her chair, bumped her head and began to cry. Her father picked her up and comforted her. 

And then we were over Greenland, headed for Kangerlussuaq.

In September of 1996, I accompanied a delegation from the North Slope Borough that traveled to Chukotka, Russia, by helicopter. In the village of Lavrentia, I came upon a Russian photographer, Vasily Dobriev. Although we could not speak the same language, we communicated by taking each others pictures simultaneously, each of us using film single-lens reflect cameras.

At the airport in Kangerlussuaq, I happened upon the very same Vasily again. Again, there was a language barrier, but we communicated as we had before - this time, with small, digital, pocket cameras.

At Kangerlussuaq, we switched to smaller turbo-prop Dash 7. The stewardess gave us the safety briefing.

Then we were in the air, headed for Nuuk, one hour to south.

Although she looked like she could be Inuit, the lady next to me said she was from China, but we did not share a common language, so I learned no more about her or the purpose of her trip. She took pictures all the way. 

When we stepped into the Nuuk terminal, the group, Pamyua, of Anchorage sang a quick song of greeting. Pictured above is Ossie Kairaiuak, Karina Moeller (now of Anchorage but originally of Greenland) and Phillip Blanchett.

You will see more of Pamyua in here this week.

Following registration, there was an "ice breaker" at the convention center. Three Greenlandic choirs, including Aavat sang songs of greeting. At the same time, a display of Inuit art opened in the same building. During the course of the week, I will attempt to track down some of the artists.

An Inuit film festival was also about to begin.

Out on the streets of Nuuk, I saw some young people skating and riding skateboards.

 

view as slideshow

PrintView Printer Friendly Version

EmailEmail Article to Friend

Reader Comments (7)

great post! thanks for sharing!!!

June 28, 2010 | Unregistered Commentergloria

Phew, what a roundabout trip, glad you finally made it! Hope you can get a bit of rest, looking forward to future posts from Greenland.

June 28, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterPat in MA

Yay! You made it! Look at the interesting people you've met. Love the pictures of the lively Pamyua performers and the happy children of Nuuk.

June 28, 2010 | Unregistered Commentermocha

Fascinating already and you had barely made it to your destination. Great posts Bill, thank you for taking all of us on this journey with you.

June 28, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterLisaJ

I keep seeing top rate facilities for Native/Indian/ Aleut people in countries other than the US where everything seems to be ramshackle by comparison. I think of pictures I have seen of well built structures in Canada and now Greenland and compare them to the shabby villages that the US territories specialize in. I am wondering iof I am seeing what I expect to see or if this is actually the case.

June 28, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterconchscooter

Wow, exciting times Bill! Being so far away yet so close to home! I loved seeing the Pamyua folks; when Benton and I worked at the PAC in Anchorage they were some of the best artistic acts that we had the pleasure to work with in our ticket office. Phillip was always our ticketing contact and he was always so pleasant.

Have a nice stay in Greenland and as always thanks for the education that you provide us that have not traveled as extensively as you have.

June 28, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterAlicia Greene

Got caught in a blizzard in April in Kusuluk Greenland.

Interesting, but we came via Iceland.

Visit Iceland if you get the chance. Another interesting country.

June 29, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterlilly-lily

PostPost a New Comment

Enter your information below to add a new comment.
Author Email (optional):
Author URL (optional):
Post:
 
Some HTML allowed: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>