A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Wednesday
Jun302010

ICC Nuuk, Greenland, part 3: Streets of Nuuk; the floor of the General Assembly; Inuit Opera singers Heinrich and Josefsen; Pamyua and Canadian throat singers together

The streets of Nuuk:

I think it is time to give readers some idea of what Nuuk looks like. I have had little time to wander around and explore as I would like, but I have managed to take a few pictures of the community as I have walked back to my hotel late at night from the cultural entertainment.

I am trying a little experiment here. While I have only posted two pictures from my walk here in the main blog body, if you click the Nuuk walk link below it will take you to a nine image slideshow. The same is true for the other three segments of this post: the ICC General Assembly floor, the Greenlandic Inuit opera singer and Pamyua, performing with Canadian throat singers. 

Each has a link that opens up to a slide show with several more images.

A young girl manipulates her cell phone while skateboarding through the streets of Nuuk.

See more of my walk through Nuuk in this slideshow.


From the floor of the General Assembly

A very serious agenda is unfolding on the floor of the 2010 General Assembly of the Inuit Circumpolar Council, under the overall theme of "Inoqatigiinneq-Sharing Life." Today, Edward Itta, Mayor of Alaska's North Slope Borough and the President of the Alaska delegation is conducting the meeting. Here, as delegates from Alaska, Russia, Canada and Greenland listen, he calls today's General Assembly to order.

Before I came to Greenland, I had it in my mind that each day I would sum up all that was said on this floor, but I find that the only way I could intelligently do that is to give that task my full attention and take few if any photos - alone edit and post them. As it is, I am already spending more than half my time doing work other than taking photos and I don't even have the time to give the photos that I do take a good close look and edit.

So I think I will hold off and at the end, after the General Assembly adopts the Nuuk Declaration of 2010, I will try to communicate the essence of it. For now, I will focus my efforts on getting pictures and posting a few, which is proving to be an enormous task in itself.

National leaders have come from all the modern nations whose boundaries encompass the ancient homeland of the Inuit and many issues are being discussed - from the impacts of global warming (and here, in the Far North, where a declining ice pack is already drastically changing the way people live, it is seen as real and present danger), to economic development and resource extraction, improving the health of the people and many more issues.

At 81, Paul John, Yup'ik of Southwest Alaska, is the oldest delegate on the floor. 

The Greenlandic and Canadian Executive Council members. Left to right is Aqqaluk Lynge, Carl Chr. Olsen of Greenland and Violet Ford and Duane Smith of Canada.

The Russian and American Executive Council Members: Valentina Leonova and Tatiyana Achirgina of Russia; Willie Goodwin, Jim Stotts and Mayor Edward Itta of Alaska.

Maliina Abelsen of Greenland speaks about health issues, including healing from alcohol and drug abuse.

The highest ranking official to show up from the federal government of the United States has been Dr. Kerri-Ann Jones, the Assistant Secretary of State for Ocean and International Environment and Scientific Affairs. Dr. Jones works just below Interior Secretary Hilary Clinton.

After she addressed the General Assembly, she met with the Alaska delegates in their caucus. She received both praise and hard questions - the praise being that relations between the indigenous people of the Arctic and the federal government seem to be improving with the new administration of Barack Obama.

Even so, the Iñupiat and Yup'ik of Alaska stated that they must be more fully included in the establishment of US Arctic policy.

ICC Assembly chair Jim Stotts of Alaska addresses Assistant Secretary Jones.

See more from the GA floor in this 12-image slide show

 

Inuit opera singers

Two Greenlandic Inuit opera singers, Ida Heinrich and Josef L. Josefson, wait to perform at a reception hosted by the Greenlandic delegation. They sang two Greenlandic songs, Pigaaara Illunni Asslt an Illaanni Unnulermatt and it was exquisitely beautiful.

Ida Heinrich, back up by members of the men's chorus Qissiat, which means "driftwood."

See more of the Opera singers in this nine-image slide show

 

Pamyua with Canadian throat singers

Karina Moeller and Pamyua put on an energetic performance before an equally charged audience, as you can see in the slide show.

Pamyua was joined onstage by Akinisie Sivuarapik and Sylvia Cloutier of Canadian Throatsingers Aqsarniit.

I have many more performances, by artists of all four nations and will post them as I find the time. I need an assistant!

See more of Pamyua and the throat singers in this 17-image slide show

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Reader Comments (9)

I'm hoping to hear more...take lots of photos and use a tape recorder (or a transcript) to relay to us the news of this event!

June 30, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterWhiteStone

I am so thrilled to be on this journey with you, Bill. Your slide shows are most enjoyable but I miss your entertaining and insightful captions. I know it's a lot to ask but is there some way by which you could add captions to the pictures in the slide show?

June 30, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterAsh

what an impressive country...wish i was there

June 30, 2010 | Unregistered Commentertwain12

The meeting is being aired on www.kbrw.org; Heard it on my way to Nalukataq.

June 30, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterQimmiqsaq

For those who were curious about 'throat singing', here is a link. http://www.folkways.si.edu/explore_folkways/throat_singing.aspx

The video screen allows you to listen to examples. Inuit throat singing is the third video.

June 30, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterdebby

thank you so much for sharing. i love the 'regular' post but i also just loved the beauty of your pictures in the slideshow. thanks for bringing us along on your journey.

June 30, 2010 | Unregistered Commentergloria

The slideshows are a wonderful way to give a feel for the events and places !
Soak it all up, don't wear yourself to a frazz...
Thank you for what you have had the time to post- checking in everyday to keep up...

June 30, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterAlaska Pi

Agree with Ash - slideshow effective but like the captions also

July 1, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterMark W

Pictures are phenomenal...I look forward to your blog every day.

July 1, 2010 | Unregistered Commenterdenrg32

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