A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Thursday
Feb172011

Kivgiq, 2011, part 3, day 1b: A race is run, honors won, a seal oil lamp lit and the dancing begun

Briefly stated, the Kivgiqs (Messenger Feasts) of old took place after a village experienced enough successful hunting seasons that they were able to store up an abundant supply of food and gifts and to invite at least one more village to come for great celebration of feasting, dancing and gift giving.

When the guests would draw near to the host village, the most athletic and swift of the young men of each community would meet and then race back to the Qargi where the celebration would take place. The winner's village would receive special honors.

Kivgiq continued strong up until the beginning of the 20th Century, but then stopped during a time of diptheria, flu and cholera epidemics. The celebration was revitalized in 1988 by the North Slope Borough under the leadership of then Mayor George Ahmaogak. The race was restored in 1991, when runners from each participating village raced from the airport to the high school.

In recent Kivgiqs, the race has been from the Airport Inn to the high school, a distance that I would estimate to be close to one-half mile.

After the colors had been posted, the 14 young men and women who would race on behalf of their villages were called to the stand to be introduced and acknowledged. There, Christian Young of Point Lay raised his hands over his head.

During that race of 1991, I had a bicycle in Barrow and I had imagined that by pedaling that bike along the race route, I could catch the beginning, the middle and the ending. It turned out not to be so easy. The runners covered the distance fast and I had to stop a few times to work my cameras and so I missed some parts, including the finish itself.

This year, I wanted to get the start, the finish and at least a piece of the in-between. I was not sure how to do it. I thought about jumping in one of the vans that would take the racers to the finish line and then to see if I could ride the van back ahead of the racers, but I quickly surmised that this would not work.

Instead, I found a taxi driver wandering aimlessly about in front of the high school. I jumped in. The driver was from Asia and his English was not good, but after putting in some effort, I did manage to explain to him that what he needed to do was drive me to a spot just down the road from where the race would start and turn the cab around and point it toward the high school. Then, I would get out of the car, leave the door open, take a few shots just as the runners took off, then jump back in the cab and he would zoom me straight to the high school, where I would jump out, shoot a couple more frames as the runners drew near and then I would run inside the school ahead of them and get the finish.

I told him I would not have time to pay when I got out, so I gave him a $10 bill. He was very worried about this, but $10 was twice the normal fare for such a ride so he took it and reluctantly did as I asked.

The starting gun was fired. The runners took off. I shot a few frames and jumped back into the cab. For Barrow, it was a very warm day, - 4 F.

The driver took me to the high school, but he could not zoom because there were people all about, wandering in and out of the road.

Still, he got me there in time for me to get out and shoot an image of the race leader as he entered the high school parking lot.

It was Christian Young.

Next, I bolted for the door, hoping to reach it before Young drew too close.

I raced to the door and turned around. Young was dashing up the ramp, followed closely by other competitors.

I zipped through the door and the Arctic entry, turned and saw that I now had no chance of catching Young at the finish line. Still, I would do what I could. I shot this image as he raced into the building as Colleen Akpikleman, the energetic, hardworking woman who had been in charge of organizing Kivgiq, shouted instructions to him and those behind him. 

June Elavgak of the Mayor's Office, who helps me out in so many ways, was also there to encourage the runners.

Christian Young charges down the hallway.

I try to run alongside, snapping pictures, fantasizing that somehow I still might get into the gym in time to catch the finish.

Christian Young enters the gym.

I tried real hard to get the finish, but I failed. All I managed to do was to get this blurry shot right after Christian Young charged through the finish rope.

Christian Young and the legs and mukluks that carried him to the finish rope ahead of all other competitors.

Christian Young catches his breath.

Christian Young is congratulated by Barrow Whaling Captain Eugene Brower, emcee.

Christian Young, who has just taken the Qargi for Point Lay.

Now, the honors go to his village of Point Lay. Village elder Esther Tuckfield lights the seal oil lamp as Christian Young and Lily Aniskett observe.

The seal oil fire is lit. Mayor Itta offers his congratulations to the village. In the past, such lamps would have provided the only light inside the Qargi.

The Point Lay trio pose for pictures from a few of their now many admirers.

Point Lay also receives the honor of being the first dance group to take the stage - thanks to this young man, Christian Spencer Young!

Point Lay dancing.

Point Lay whaling captain Thomas Nukapigak, who took me into his crew in 2008, the year that Point Lay rejuvenated its hunt after 75 years since it had last landed a bowhead, dances with his village. In the middle part of the 20th Century, the United States government relocated many of the people of Point Lay to big cities in the Lower 48, hoping to assimilate them.

In time, only two people, Warren and Dorcas Neakok, were left in Point Lay. In the 1970's, the people came back, but did not get a bowhead quota until 2008.

The village did not land a bowhead the year that I whaled with them, but in 2009, they did. I made it to the Naluktak, or whale feast.

Point Lay dancing.

The youth of Point Lay dance.

I think they enjoyed it.

 

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Reader Comments (4)

Thank you so much for sharing your pictures, words, and time. I appreciate your work.

Smiles,
A California Grown Eskimo

February 17, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterNancy Grant

Oh wow! It's so cool to connect with my heritage through your blog. I left Alaska when I was only 1 and have only visited once when I was 10 years old. Thank you so much for your time, energy & effort to capture & share the culture. You rock!

February 17, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterCassandra Kinaviaq Rae

I'm Anish from www.picxy.blogspot.com and my blog is listed in blogger choice awards 2011 http://bloggerschoiceawards.com/categories/13 . I would like to build a healthy blogging relation with you.So i would request you for link exchange. I will link back from my home page.Please think about it

Hoping for a positive reply.

With regards,
Anish
http://picxy.blogspot.com

Sorry for posting it here.as i couldn't find a contact page

February 17, 2011 | Unregistered Commenterpicxy

great shots, bill. today i posted my own photos and article about a library director here in willow grove pa who died on jan. 19. i'll get paid for my work from patch.com, which is just crying for a reporter in wasilla who could easily post on patch, i'm thinking, and make a little moolah. when my article is printed next monday i'll send you the link. i included about 9 photos and captions.

February 17, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterRuth Deming

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