A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Wednesday
Mar232011

Study of the young writer, Shoshana; my first bike ride of spring; whales spotted off Barrow - Kivgiq whaling dance

Study of the young writer Shoshana, # 3 Million even: After an anonymous blog reader bought me an Americano and pastry at Metro Cafe, Shoshana finds a chocolate frosted biscotti.

If Metro Cafe runs out of fresh cinnamon rolls, then I will sometimes go for a biscotti. And the fact is, the chocolate-covered almond biscotis are damn good.

Last week, I shot a few studies of the young writer that I have not yet had a chance to post. I still will. And when I do, I fear the posting will make some readers feel very sad.

A little after 8:00 PM in the evening, I took my first bike ride of this spring. I don't know what the temperature was, but the puddles that had formed earlier in the 37 degree heat of the day had refrozen. Still, it was warm enough that  I had no need for gloves and was fine in a light jacket.

I enjoyed the ride, but it also caused me to feel very sad. I could not help but think of Soundarya, and how she had looked forward to visiting us here in Alaska, to riding a bike, and to experience snow for the first time.

Naturally, a dog came after me. I wasn't scared of the dog, but I was a little scared for the dog. This is Seldon Road and Seldon Road is a busy road.

I have been hearing reports of bowhead whales being spotted in the lead offshore from Barrow. Pretty early. Every year, a little earlier, it seems. When I was first hanging around on the Arctic Slope, the first sightings usually seemed to come in the last half of April. So maybe it won't be long until whaling starts - depending on what the wind does, what the currents do, what the ice conditions are.

One never actually can predict until it happens.

So here is a "pre-whaling" shot, taken in February at Kivgiq: youth of the Tagiugmiut Dancers of Barrow, performing a whale hunting dance.

No, I did not shoot it in black and white, I shot in color. But I wanted to match it up with some of my old black and white whaling work and so I converted it. When I put it in Uiñiq, it will be color. Truth is, although I do everything in color these days, I still like black and white the best. 

Not everybody understands this.

I can never make digital black and white look as good as film black and white, though.

Maybe this is not quite true. I shot this picture with a slow, 5.6 telephoto lens and to do it I had to push my ISO to 6400. There was no film that held together this well when pushed to ISO 6400. 

Circumstances have pulled me away from my Kivgiq work for awhile, but I am going to open it back up today and so I intend to finally post a final (for now) set of Kivgiq 2011 pictures tomorrow.

 

View images as slides

 

Tuesday
Mar222011

Hopson Middle School scientists study bowhead whales and lava lamps, compare clams to humans, make music with glasses, examine declining permafrost and make tea

Okay - I now have enough information to finalize my post on the young scientists from Barrow's Hopson Middle School who participated in the Alaska Science & Engineering Fair, held at Begich Middle School in Anchorage.

I begin with Molly Adams, who studied the bowhead whale and received an award for her work.

Molly posed the question, "why do bowhead whales float when harpooned?"

She advanced this hypothesis: "I think whales will float when harpooned because water is more dense than the whale. I know this because harpooned whales float. The whalers only put one float on the whale to keep it up when they harpoon it because of all the blubber."

She conducted experiments in which she floated blubber in different mixtures of water mixed with sodium chloride (table salt), baking soda, epsom salt and just plain tap water.

In all these cases, the blubber floated.

Trenton Sovalik likes to watch the mysterious colored globules inside a lava lamp float up, sink, float up, sink and just keep doing it over and over - but he did not why it happened. So he made lava lamps in three bottles to find out.  He mixed oil, water, food coloring and salt together and applied heat to the bottom. 

He determined that when the oil is close to the heat source it expands, becomes less dense and rises to the top. There, it cools, sinks toward the bottom, turning wax-like, then heats up and the process repeats itself.

Emily Brower loves music, so she made her own musical instruments out of bottles. She found that she could control the pitch each bottle would ring at when struck by filling each bottle with a different level of water.

Update: I have just learned that today is Emily's birthday. I don't which birthday, but as soon as I find out, I will add it in. 

Happy birthday, Emily!

Randy Patkotak explored the impacts of global warming on permafrost and discovered that the permafrost is shrinking.

Nicole Anderson's project was "Clams vs. Humans" and she worked off the hypothesis that "the muscles of a clam will be similar to the muscles of a human."

To find out if these was indeed the case, "we used a standard clam and a standard human. We then precided to compare and contrast their muscles."

To accomplish this, it was necessary to engage in a little dissection work, so she had to get out her dissecting knife, scissors and screwdriver and then start cutting and dissecting...

...clams, that is. Nicole dissected clams... to do her study of human muscles, she went to the internet.

Her analysis revealed that "the muscles in a clam and human help them move. The clam and human muscles give them strength. The muscles in the clam and human are strong in the body."

Nicole's conclusion:

"There are similarities and difference between clams and humans. Both have muscles. Humans have over 500 muscles and clams have three main muscles."

Ariana Salamat loves tea and did a study of tea and how sugar dissolves in. I am not certain what all she discovered, but I agree with her - tea is good.

 

View images as slides (includes high school scientists from yesterday)

 

 

Monday
Mar212011

Barrow High Science students examine topics from the effects of oil upon seal fur to the diets of Arctic fish

Even as the Barrow Lady Whalers were battling their way through the final game of the 3A tournament, another group of Barrow youth were engaged in a statewide competition held in Anchorage. These were bright students from Barrow High and Hopson Middle schools who had come down to compete in the Alaska Science & Engineering Fair, held at Begich Middle School.

Their competition started early in the morning and lasted until evening. I attended portains that took place both before and after the girls game.

This competition does not attract the same kind of crowds as does basketball nor does it bring its participants the same high degree of recognition.

But do not doubt the importance of it. It was good science, instigated by Iñupiat whaler hunters, that gave the Alaska Eskimo Whaling Commission the scientific data necessary to refute the inadequately researched information that the International Whaling Commission used in 1977 to try to put an end to the bowhead hunt.

Because the Iñupiat were able to teach scientists how to incorporate their traditional knowledge into their research and to improve their methods, the bowhead hunt is doing well today - as are the bowhead.

Now, with the Arctic taking the advance brunt of global warming, with potentially heavy oil exploration looming in both the Beaufort and Chukchi seas and ever more development on land that can impact the rivers and lakes, the importance of science to the Arctic and its people only grows.

This is Jadyn Edwardsen-Harrington with her project on caribou sinew, which she chose because "I am interested in things that were made by my ancestors."

In her project, she explained that sinew "has played an important part in the Iñupiaq's survival kit. It has been around for more than a thousands of years in Alaska's Arctic. Sinew is a type of thread ancient Eskimos used before store bought thread was invented." 

She tested the strength of sinew compared to dental floss, and with different treatments using whale blubber and beeswax. "If I can discover the strength of sinew," she stated, "it may be easier for people to sew with. I think that whale blubber will cause the sinew to work stronger after it has been prepared."

The more homegrown scientists, the better.

Jadyn and some of the students here just may prove to be the ones the Arctic will need in the future.

The importance of the topic Ben Voss chose to study will be obvious to anyone familiar with Alaska's Arctic. 

Ben posed the question, "will oil cause animal fur to lose its ability to insulate? As oil drilling steadily approaches into the Arctic Ocean it seems that the answer is becoming increasingly important in the face of an oil spill. This relevant question became very interesting to me as I heard more and more about the likelihood of Arctic oil drilling.

"I believe that if an animal's fur is contaminated by oil it will be less insulated than clean animal fur."

Ben conducted his test on strips of seal fur that he obtained from an Iñupiat friend who hunts. He conducted conducted various tests that included applying oil to the strips. Among other things, he found that the oil penetrated all the way through the fur and to the inside of the skin.

He also did a good deal of reading as he researched the impact of past oil spills, such as the Exxon Valdez and the BP Gulf of Mexico. Among his many findings:

"An oil spill has potential to cause great amounts of damage to animals and the environment and people involved in the clean up efforts. Oil when mixed with water creates a sticky black tar known as mousse, which sticks to any substance it comes in contact with. Most marine animals can't avoid an oil slick and when they become coated in mouse their fur begins to lose it's insulation properties and many animals perish due to hypothermia.

"Oil can also be absorbed through the animals skin, which slowly poisons it. In seals, oil destroys their fur and damages their insulating layer of blubber."

Stephanie Talbert's family has been eating fish since antiquity and still do, so Stephanie decided that she would like to know what the fish eat. She did some reading and research on the diets of white fish and least cisco and then hypothesized that the fish dined primarily upon snails, and that they did not eat eggs or rocks.

Starting with three white fish, she then conducted her own research. Using an ulu, she cut off their head and dissected them, opening up their stomachs and intestines to see what they had been eating. She then did the same with four least cisco, or Iqalusaaq. 

What she found was that in both cases, her hypothesis had been wrong.

"The male whitefish ate eggs and rocks and the females only ate eggs. I think that my project was awesome," she stated in her conclusion," I learned a lot of new things about the two types of fish I observed. I learned that the whitefish either eats other fish eggs or their own. Also, the least cisco east eggs and has smaller stomachs than whitefish, because it is smaller. I also learned to gut fish. I didn't know how before the experiment.

"I think that it is important to know how to gut fish because my family members do and I can now carry on the past of my culture." 

Okay... now it is getting late in the day and I need to get this post up and go on to other things. So I think I will let the above three serve as examples of the efforts the student put into their project and out of necessity and not to lessen any of the accomplishments of those that follow I will hurry along.

Joe Martelle studied insulation and examined the best, most economical ways to stay warm in the Arctic.

In Barrow and the villages of the Arctic Slope, this is vital knowledge, for certain.

In her Oil Dispersants project, Svetlana Terzioski studied the challenges of removing spilled oil from the oceans.

Billy Thompson looked into wind generated energy in his windmill project. 

In "Food Preservatives," Alaina Bankston studied bacterial growth.

Elmer Thompson took a look at "Electromagnestism."

Inspired by television shows such as CSI: Crime Scene Investigation, Victoria Codamon studied forensic crime investigation in her project, "Who did it: DNA CSI."

Chan Chroonsophonsak did an examination of "Igloo vs. Snowpit."

During the many hours that the students spent with their exhibits, a variety of judges wandered by. The judges would often stop, study their projects and then grill them with questions - sometimes tough ones. 

Alaina Bankston answers tough questions posed by judge Tom Hennessy.

For her work dissecting and learning about the eating habits of whitefish and least Cisco, Stephanie Talbert received the Alaska Fly Fishers Annual Award of Merit. The award is given to "students whose projects best contribute to our knowledge of fish and their habitats. We feel that your entry was clearly deserving of this award."

The award included a $100 savings bond.

Other special recognition awards going to Barrow High students included:

Billy Thompson: a backpack from the US Air Force.

Svetlana Terzioski: U.S. Metric Association "Best Use of the International System of Units."

Chan Chroonsophonsak: Alaska Professional Communicators Honorable Mention for Best Abstract.

Jadyn Edwardsen-Harrington: U.S. Army ($50), Marine Mammals of Alaska Book and COSAA Notebook.

Elmer Thompson: U.S. Army ($50).

Ben Voss: U.S. Army ($50).

Ben Voss: AK Science Teachers Association (Flash Drive).

It is not yet known if any of the Barrow students placed first, second, or third in their categories, as they had to board their plane back to Barrow before the ribbons were given out.

Congratulations must also go to science teacher Emily Rosenberry, who is also Iñupiat. It was she who taught and prepared the students. She also received help from her husband, Mark, at right. Both served as Chaperones.

I originally intended to also include the Hopson Middle School science fair participants in this post, but I am missing some vital information that I must have first. Once I get it, I will post the Middle School participants. Anyone who wants can take a preview peek at their pictures as they are included in the slide show linked below:

 

View images as slides

 

Sunday
Mar202011

The Barrow Lady Whalers explode on the floor and then in joy as they win State and finish undefeated 

There are two girls teams from the Arctic in the Alaska 3A Division, Barrow and Kotzebue. It was the two Arctic teams that, after a hard fought season that had left Barrow Lady Whalers undefeated, came to Anchorage's Sullivan Arena yesterday to battle each other for the state championship.

Just before the game began, Dana Chrestman dashed through the friendly but competitive slapping hands of her Kotzebue Huskies opponents.

Early in the game, team captain Nicole Smith put two points on the board. Nicole, btw, is the granddaughter of Kunuk and Mabel Aiken, who took me into their whaling crew and are featured in my book, "Gift of the Whale." Mabel passed away last October while I was in Utah for my nephew's wedding.

"Tears finally came at about the last 3 minutes of game," Nicole's mother, Violet Smith, said. "That feeling of the end of our basketball trips with our daughter was bitter sweet. This morning we(father-in-law, jack and I) shed tears thinking of how Nic's grandma and my mom would have been so proud of her. My mom use to call me to ask what time Nic's game would be broadcasted on kbrw so that she can listen. She was a big fan of Nic's.  Same with Grandma who lost her battle with breast cancer in June."

The Kotzebue Huskies were determined to stop Lynette Hepa, Barrow's tallest team member at six feet, three inches. It wouldn't work. Hepa would lead in scoring with 14 points, 23 rebounds and five blocks.

Lynette Hepa passes the ball over the top of her opponents to teammate Melissa Gerke.

Gerke grabs the ball and head for net.

Gerke snags a rebound. Gerke would follow Hepa with 12 points, eight rebounds and two blocks.

At half time, the Lady Whalers led by ten - but earlier they had led by 18. Coach Jordyn Danner told them that the only place they were getting beat was in turnovers, of which they had 12 in the first half. She urged them to pull themselves back together and to go out and play the second half harder, smarter and tougher.

Rallied, the Lady Whalers give each other a yell, then head back to the floor.

Gerke goes for two.

Going for two more.

Lady Whaler Hilary Lowery outjumps her opponents to snag a rebound.

Lynette Hepa and Julia Kim on defense.

Coach Danner gives her players some time-out instruction.

Julia Kim steps to the foul line.

Kim concentrates as she takes her shot.

Kim made a number of free throws...

...but not this one.

Mei Havea contemplates a hard shot. 

With one minute and 52 seconds left in the game and the title securely in the Whaler's hands, Coach Danner honored her four seniors when she pulled them from the game to give some of her younger players more action time.

The four seniors received a standing ovation from Barrow fans - most of whom had come 850 miles to see this game. That's how high school sports are in Alaska. Often, teams and fans travel well over 1000 miles for a game.

Seniors Nicole Smith, Julia Kim, Jaleen Simmonds and Melissa Gerke.

They burst with joy as the game ends, Barrow Lady Whalers, 58 - Kotzebue Huskies, 31.

The lady whalers exploded with joy.

Hepa and Kim embrace.

What more can I say?

Melissa Gerke received the Player of the Game award.

The Lady Whalers of Barrow High - Alaska Division 3A State Champions!

...another burst of joy. Coach Danner, by the way, has roots in both Barrow and Hawaii, had been living in Hawaii but returned to Barrow to coach. Assistant coach Roland Hepa, Lynette's father who married an Iñupiat, also hails originally from Hawaii.

Hench, the leis. 

Margaret Opie, grandmother of Lynette Hepa, gave each team member a hug.

When it was all done, the lady whalers joined together in a prayer of thanks - it was a rather exuberant prayer.

Kim receives a hug from Violet Smith, mother of team captain Nicole Smith. Jack Smith, Nicole's dad, looks in from the left.

 

Now, I must note that there was another group of young competitors from Barrow who came to Anchorage yesterday. You could call them "mental athletes." They did not have the cheering crowds that the basketball players did, but I was there, before and after the game. Tomorrow, I will introduce them and tell you what they did.

This means I will have to postpone my Kivgiq finale for another day, but that's okay.

 

View images as slides

 


Saturday
Mar192011

Four pose for couple's fifth anniversary; spatula in the snow; tissues on the floor; Jobe stands

It is well past midnight and I must get up very early in the morning and I tend not to sleep all that well, anyway and worse yet when I have to get up earlier than normal, so I am going to hustle along, so that I can least spend a little more time lying in bed, tossing and turning.

Jacob and Lavina brought Kalib out this evening so that he could join Jobe and overnight with us. This, because it was their fifth wedding anniversary and they wanted to celebrate alone.

Before Jacob and Lavina left, I thought it would be nice to do a fifth anniverary family portrait.

When it came time to pose, Kalib ran off with his spatula.

Jacob had to chase him down and carry him protesting back.

Jobe observed all the commotion peacefully as he cooperated fully.

Jacob and Lavina Hess on their fifth anniversary, with the two little ones their union has produced. I think this picture captures each of them rather nicely.

Kalib dropped his spatula.

Kalib retrieved its spatula and used it to turn snow.

Kalib set out to sweep the snow away from the wreckage of the Running Dog. Oh, the good times that plane and I used to have! It will never fly again, unless by rare chance I score a best seller, get rich and can afford to spend three times as much to put it back together as it would cost me to get another.

I am about to try to get another, but all I can spend is $50.

I will explain in subsequent post.

Some of you Alaskans will have already figured it out.

But please don't tell.

Lavina kissed both of her babies goodbye, in turn.

Although their personalities are very different, in some ways, Jobe is following in his big brother's footsteps.

As you can see, he is not completely over his eye infection. He has a few cold symptoms as well.

That didn't stop him from standing up, all on his own. He stood there for about 30 seconds, fell on his butt, got up, stood again, fell again, stood again...

I kind of was hoping he would take his first step and start walking, so that I could photograph it, but then I did not want his parents to miss that moment.

Maybe he will walk tomorrow. Unfortunately, if he does, I will be in Anchorage. I will then just have to photograph him walking later - but there is nothing like those first steps.

 

View images as slide show