A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Entries in religion (15)

Monday
Dec132010

Goodbye, Warren Matumeak - part 5: Singspiration slide show; when Tommy saved his aapa's life

I am going to do things a little differently with this, my final post in this series. Anyone who has followed this blog for the past month or so will probably understand when I state that, at the moment, I am drained. I am exhausted.

So, instead of presenting my 14 image singerspiration post in the usual way - with images that alternate with narrative, I am inserting this one photo into the post and I present the rest entirely as a slide show. This means there will not be captions or any kind of explanation, but I think you will get the idea.

I do want to say a little more about two images, however. Very near to the end of slide show, you will see an image of Warren's daughters Alice Akpik and Darlene Matumeak standing just behind the pulpit. As they were bringing the singspiration for the their father to an end, they were suddenly struck with such emotion that they had to step back from the pulpit to fight off the tears.

As they stood there, the congregation spontaneously began to sing - softly, tenderly and lovingly, "Praying for You." So in that photo, Alice and Darlene are wrapped in that song of prayer offered by those gathered with them in the Utqiagvik Presbyterian Chapel.

While all the people of Barrow and just about anywhere on the Arctic Slope will recognize the gentleman standing with his guitar in the final two shots as Peter Matumeak, Warren's son, I want to be certain that readers who do not know him understand this as well.

Click here for full, 14-image Singspiration for Warren Matumeak slide show.

Before I went to Barrow, I mentioned that I had rounded up a number of pictures that I had taken of Warren in life, but that there were many more that I could not find - including my very favorite. I have found that photo, of Warren with his grandson, Tommy Akpik, which I present below, along with the story. I believe that I took it in the fall of 1986, not long after I had begun Uiñiq magazine:

 

Beneath a full, October moon that hung in a pale blue sky, Warren Matumeak and his nine-year old grandson Tommy came upon three caribou. Warren shot the first, and Tommy the other two. As they dragged the dead caribou onto the sled, Warren felt a pain in his chest. He began to sweat. His muscles grew weak, his breath short.

He realized he was suffering a heart attack. “Tommy,” he said, “I am going to go to heaven now. You take me to your grandmother. Now, drive toward the moon. Going that direction, you will see your aaka."  Warren did not expect to be alive to see her himself. Tommy was frightened, but he helped situate his grandfather on the sled. Then he started up the snowmachine, turned it toward the moon and began to drive.

He cried as he pulled the sled upon which he expected to deliver the body of his aapa to his aaka.

Aapa Warren had taught Tommy how to shoot, to hunt and how to live on the land and sea. Tommy would not let Aapa down in the moment of his death. Tommy drove slowly over the bumpy tundra, until the snowmachine became stuck in a drifted-over ravine. Tommy tried with all of his strength, but could not push it out.

“Let’s pray" Warren suggested. They did. Warren then found the strength to help Tommy push the snowmachine out.  An hour later, Tommy pulled up to the tent. He and his grandmother lay Warren down upon some caribou skins, then snowmachined to a nearby camp with a radio which they used to call Search and Rescue.

When the helicopter arrived, Martha joined her husband on board, but there was no room for Tommy. He went to the camp of his aapa's sister and brother-in-law, Thomas and Myrtle Akootchook, but lingered outside. Finally, Myrtle went looking and found him sitting outside, crying. Myrtle brought Tommy in, and gave him a can of soda pop.

That seemed to cheer Tommy up a bit.

Saturday
Dec112010

Goodbye, Warren Matumeak - part 4: final military honors; Psalm 23: I will dwell in the house of the Lord for ever

As the service draws to an end, Barrow veterans, including many who have fought in foreign wars, took turns in paying Warren Matumeak their respect. Wesley Aiken, who served with him, salutes his life-long friend and closest cousin.

James Kapu Ahsoak and Thomas Hopson during the folding of the flag.

As Hopson takes the folded flag, Nowpakahok salutes.

David Leavitt presents the flags of the State of Alaska and the Alaska Territitorial Guard  to Warren’s daughter Darlene Kagak.

Wesley Aiken presents the American flag to Warren’s eldest daughter, Alice Akpik.

 

His fellow veterans give Warren Matumeak a final salute. To see a larger version of this image, click on the picture. "View as slide show" will display larger versions of all pictures.

Warren’s grandsons Warren Kagak and Tommie Akpik lead the way as Warren's pallbearers carry him from the church…

…and then to his grave.

Family members gather around as Warren Matumeak is lowered into the permafrost. Afterward, when they gather at his home to eat, they will express great confidence that he has gone to a better place and that in time, short by eternal standards, they will join him there.

The Reverend John Chambers conducts the graveside service.

The grave is filled in.

Warren loved Psalm 23 and had recited it a few times during the final weeks of his life, so the family asked Mark Ahsoak if he would create a plaque of Psalm 23 for the cross that would mark Warren’s grave. He did. Darlene examines the plaque and is pleased by it.

Robert Akpik places a wreath on the cross that now marks his aapa’s grave.

Family members gather behind him.

The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want.

He maketh me to lie down in green pastures: he leadeth me beside the still waters.

He restoreth my soul: he leadeth me in the paths of righteousness for his name's sake.

Yea, though I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil: for thou art with me; thy rod and thy staff they comfort me.

Thou preparest a table...

 

View as slide show


Saturday
Dec112010

Goodbye, Warren Matumeak - part 2: The visitation at Utqiagvik Presbyterian Church

Most often, funerals for people who have reached a position of prominence* in Barrow are held in one of the school gymnasiums in order to accommodate a number of mourners too large for the chapel. Warren Matumeak was such a man, but before his death he made it known that his funeral was to be held inside the Utqiagvik Presbyterian Church, where he had attended services and been a faithful member for all of his life.

He was a trustee and Elder of the church and served as a choir director since the early 1950’s. He was a man devoted to his Iñupiat culture – the language, the hunting, fishing, whaling, traditional song and dance and to his family.

He also made it clear that he had no higher devotion than that he gave his God and this was the place where that relationship took hold. This would be the place where his final service would be held.

The visitation began at noon, but I was unable to make it over until about 12:40. I followed these two into the chapel to find that it was already full.

*I would note that before the funeral, I was contacted by a few friends of Warren's who would not be able to attend and they let me know they were looking forward to attending vicariously through this blog.

So, for all those who would have been here if they could, I am making this an extra large series of pictures, beyond what may be of interest to many readers outside the scope of Warren's family and friendship. I will put three posts up this afternoon, one almost immediately following the other, and will then follow up tomorrow with another post or two to finish off with the singspiration, and a small glimpse at Warren's life.

These are the living sisters and brothers that Warren left behind, plus a couple of cousins and a niece. Through his father, mother and step-mother, Warren had a total of 13 brothers and sisters.

As slides from his life were projected onto a screen behind his coffin, grandchildren of Warren gathered around to share some final moments with their beloved Aapa.

The chapel was filled with gospel music, played in the heart and soul-felt way that the Iñupiat perform it. Among the musicians were Bradford Nageak, Fred Elavgak and...

Clifford Okpeaha...

Frank Long, Jr....

...Tom Opie...

...Leona Okakok...

...and Adeline Hopson.

Soon, the casket will be closed. The service will begin.

 

View images as slides

Tuesday
Nov172009

Preaching, feeding and healing at First Native Baptist; late though it be, our first cold snap finally arrives: NC on Rogue release

I had gone to Anchorage to do an interview and get a couple of photographs of an 11 year-old boy who fed the first bull caribou that he ever shot to the homeless people who gather each Sunday at the First Native Baptist Church in Anchorage to be fed. 

I misunderstood a little bit, as I thought that the feeding would begin at 3:00 PM, so I made certain to be there on time. In actuality, a church service lasting just over an hour is held first, and then the feeding follows.

I had not intended to take any pictures during the service, but then this fellow was called up to speak. Alalsredo lives in Bangalore, India, where I have many in-laws. His stay in Alaska would be short. As I write these words, he should already be on a jet to continue his tour, which will now take him to several cities in the Lower 48.

"Why would I come from India to preach in the US?" he asked. His answer: Jesus had called him to travel across our nation, stop in all the churches that he could along the way and deliver this specific message:

The people of the US - particularly the church people - need each day to get down on their knees and pray to God. If they don't, he warned, "then this great nation of the United States will fall."

He said that the reason Jesus had sent him specifically to the church people of the United States is because they are God's choice people.

Afterward, he announced that he wanted to call up one person, at random, to pray for that person. He chose this young woman. She came up and he prayed for her.

I had my professional digital SLR's with me to do the picture of the boy, but I did not touch them during the worship service. I tried real hard not to take any more pictures at all, but I could not altogether stop myself, so I did them with my pocket camera, which is perfectly quiet, whereas the DSLR's are noisy.

I had been greeted by one of the pastors when I first entered, and he had expressed his admiration for my professional DSLR's, as if he expected that I had come to use them, so I assume it would have been okay. Yet, they felt too intrusive so I stuck to the pocket camera and even then only shot a little over a dozen frames.

I think one day I might come back and do a complete story on the church's feed-the-homeless program and then, after I have spent more time with them and gotten to know them better, I will photograph the happenings to greater depth.

There was a time to call for healing. This man was suffering pain in his legs. Maybe he felt better afterward, I don't know. I could not take the time to follow-up, but had to do the job that I had come to do.

This woman suffered so badly that she wept. I hope she felt better when it was all over. As for the young man who I came to interview and to photograph, it all came together excellently. I am saving those pictures, though, until I put them to their intended use.

The temperature in Anchorage had been about five degrees, but when we got home last night it was ten below. This morning, at 9:28, it was -18 (-28 C.). So it looks like we have finally entered our first cold snap. Not terribly cold yet, but still a cold snap.

I decided to check online and see what the official temperatures were at a few other Alaska locations, including true cold spots, like Fort Yukon. I had expected that it might be in the -40's, possibly even -50s, there, but it was -31. Fairbanks, a much colder place than Wasilla, was exactly the same as us: -18. Barrow was in the grip of a heat wave: PLUS one.

Anchorage was two above.

In some ways, this is not fair to Anchorage, as the official temperature is taken at the airport, right by Cook Inlet and there are other places in the city that can be 5, 10, 15, or even as much as 20 degrees colder.

I might add that I have checked our car thermometer against official sources and it is amazingly accurate.

The Little Su.

Grotto Iona.

Two moose - momma and calf.

Sarah Palin releases her book:

As if you didn't know. In theory, being as how I am a Wasilla blogger and Wasilla's most famous resident seems at the moment to be the biggest news story in the world, what with the release of Going Rogue, I suppose that I should be writing about Sarah Palin today.

But 42 million people are already doing that and I have other concerns, so I have "no comment."

Not that I couldn't write about her today - I just choose not to.

That circus can tumble on without me.

Friday
Jun122009

Meanwhile, back in Wasilla, skateboarders roll for Jesus

I went to the bank this afternoon to transfer money from the business account to the family account so that the mortgage check would not bounce. I was kind of horrified at how little money was then left in either account. As I drove away via the city park route, I suddenly became aware that there were an unusual number of kids rolling about in the skateboard bowl. I had only a second or two to react, but lifted my G10 pocket camera and shot a blind frame through the open passenger window as I passed. As I did, a man's voice, amplified by a loudspeaker, entered the car.

"Dear Jesus," the detached voice pled, then paused, "will you be my Lord?"

That was all I heard. I drove on. The camera had failed to focus.

Oh well. Life is a blur, anyway.

Next, I drove to a nearby kiosk and ordered an Americano for $1.50, plus tip. Afterward, as I headed toward home, I saw this kid carrying his skateboard away from the park.

I wondered what his role in the revival had been, or if he had gone there to skate and that was it.

Maybe there was free food, too.