A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

All photos and text © Bill Hess, unless otherwise noted 
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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Friday
Jul232010

Boy and Girl fiddle dance at the Gwich'in Gathering

Oh boy! Have I been neglecting this blog! Not by choice. As I have explained, conditions for me here in Fort Yukon have not been conducive to blogging and I have no time for it right now. Still, one cannot leave a daily blog unfilled for too many days in a row before it ceases to become a daily blog so, very quickly, I dropped into my folder from last night's fiddle dance, went to the middle and then pulled out this little series of this boy and girl dancing.

So, readers, at least you know that I am still alive and going.

Next week, I hope to get deep into this week. 

I just asked my host if she could identify these two kids but she can't. This means they probably are not from Fort Yukon, but came in from one of the villages - either here in Alaska or in Canada's Yukon Territory, for the Gwich'in is a nation that had two big countries come onto their land and draw a line through it and claim it as their own.

Even so, it remains... the Gwich'in Nation.

 

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Update, 6:39 PM: I saw this young man at the Gathering this afternoon and learned that he is from Arctic Village and was dancing with his sister: James and Athena Chilkoot.

 

 

Tuesday
Jul202010

Three beautiful young people at the Gwich'in Gathering; Sunshine takes the wheel; my condolences for the death of William Hess, but Bill Hess remains among the living and loves salmon

Four days have now passed since I last posted and I fear I can't make but a token post now - just enough to tell you that I am alive and shooting here in Fort Yukon. Up until now, however, picture blogging has been impossible for me. I have been able to get only the slowest wireless connection, one that works for a minute or two and then cuts out for 15 or 20 minutes - one that did not allow me to upload pictures at all.

Now I have unplugged a friend's direct line and plugged the ethernet into my laptop, but I have little time before I must run. I have shot many pictures since the Gwich'in Gathering began yesterday morning - of dancers, ceremony, speeches, feasting, the Yukon River, a fiddle band, a jig dance contest, square dancing and what have you but I have not had time to go back and look at any of those pictures, save this one.

I chose this one for today's post because shortly after I took it, I showed it to Jayme Thomas and promised her that I would put it on the blog. So, no time to sort through, edit and prepare photos - I just went straight to this one, so that I could keep that promise.

That's Jayme with the Gwich'in dance group that came up from Circle. She holds Esau Ervin John, the baby of a friend. Sitting beyond them is her friend and fellow dancer, Denise Carroll.

I think the problems that I face blogging here are going to make it very difficult, if not impossible, to blog in my usual manner and I will go home with another huge pile of photos to add to my unseen backlog, reaching everywhere from the Arctic Slope to here, to Arizona, Greenland, India and many places in between.

I don't think that I will ever catch up.

But check back anyway. Anything could happen.

On Sunday, I mentioned that I had prepared a dozen photos to post but was unable to, because of the problems that I encountered. For the most part, those photos dealt with my travels to Fort Yukon and that no longer feels very relevant to me.

Plus, lunch is about to be served and I want to go get some of it.

Yet, I will include three from that dozen, beginning with the above. That's my host, Ben Stevens and his two-and-half year old son, Alex, better known as "Sunshine. We were on a road with no traffic, Ben was driving maybe one mph, Sunshine wanted to take the wheel and Ben let him.

Sunshine was born January 20, 2008 - just a bit less than one month past Kalib's birth. January is generally not only a cold, cold but dark month here in Fort Yukon, where wintertime temperatures can drop into the lower - 70's.

But on the day that Alex was born, the sun rose to shine brightly upon Fort Yukon, so one of his uncles gave him his Athabascan name, Hech' edee' 'onh' - Sunshine.

Not long after I had arrived in Fort Yukon, I was taking a nap when I heard an energetic voice that I recognized, so I got up and went out to find Bruce Thomas. In years past, Ben and Bruce had taken me on a number of trips up and down the Yukon and Pocupine Rivers, plus Birch Creek, to visit fish camps and to hunt moose and geese (we didn't get a moose, we did get geese - or they did. I got pictures).

It was a good time and I would be happy to do it again.

First thing Bruce told me was that everyday he likes to read the obituaries. One day awhile back, he read about the death of William Hess.

"I gave you up for dead, Bill Hess!" he told me.

In the event that any of William Hess's friends or relatives should read this, my condolences. I am sorry for your loss.

I, however, am Bill, not William. I have never been a William, I never will be a William and I am still alive.

I say this with caution, because one never knows about tomorrow.

That evening, Ben and I went to visit Bruce in his backyard by the fire, along with whoever else showed up, to share conversation and many did.

As we were leaving, Bruce showed up at the driver's window with these two bottles of salmon that he had just put up. "I have something I want to give you," he said. "Take this home to your wife."

So I will.

Gwich'in hospitality.

 

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Sunday
Jul182010

I am experiencing technical difficulties here in Fort Yukon; when they are solved, I will blog

I prepared a dozen photos for this post, but I am experiencing technical difficulties here in Fort Yukon that have so far prevented me from uploading them. I think it is a problem that can be solved, but, for the moment I am unable to build a proper post.

I'll be back - perhaps within the hour, maybe tonight, possibly not until tomorrow. Who knows when?

Friday
Jul162010

Five cyclists from Kentucky pedal onto the stage that Scot built for his wife, Carmen - Metro Cafe; the huge challenge Scot and Carmen now face

When it comes to Metro Cafe and the couple who created it, it is mostly Carmen who appears in this blog. Her husband Scot gets in now and then, but Carmen is the public face of Metro and it is her face with its bright and exuberant smile that tends to appear in front of my camera and then wind up here. On the day that I took this picture, sometime last winter, I was inside the cafe, visiting with Scot and I told him what a remarkable thing he had brought to us when he designed and built Metro. 

For those fortunate enough to have taken the time to stop in, this little coffee shop has given a whole new feeling to this neighborhood. It has created options to relax and enjoy that never existed here before. On a cold day, it is a warm place where people gather - warm not only in temperature but atmosphere and spirit. In my opinion, the coffee is the best to be found in Wasilla; Children come here for smoothies and Kalib really likes the hot chocolate. It is a place for old people, teens, young adults, conservatives, liberals. It doesn't matter. Carmen wraps her warmth around all who enter. She causes all to feel that they are special to her and that this place that belongs to her and Scot is theirs, too.

Metro is a pleasant place for us all. There has never before been anything like it in all of Wasilla. This is what I told Scot that day.

"I see Metro Cafe as a stage," Scot answered. "All I did was build the stage. It is Carmen who directs the show. She is the one who gives it spirit and brings it to life."

Take a close look at Scot's face, and then come back and look at it again after you finish reading this post. News of great import had just come into his life, into Carmen's life - the life they share together, the life they share with their five-year old son, Branson.

Late yesterday morning, this three-year old girl, Robin Harrison, pedaled into the Metro parking lot from Kentucky. She entered the stage that Scot had built and ordered a hot chocolate from Carmen. Yes, you read right - she pedaled in from Kentucky. I am not making this up. It is true.

On August 1 of last year, she pedaled away from her home in Mt. Vernon, Kentucky, headed south to the tip of Florida, turned north again and continued on in a 7,000 mile bike ride that took her across the south, through Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California, Oregon and on to Seattle, Washington. From there, she put her bike on a series of ferry boat rides up to Prince Rupert, BC, Juneau and then to Whittier, from where she had so far pedalled on to Wasilla but still had more than 300 miles left to go.

I asked her how it had been for her, a little girl, to ride a bike all that long way?

"I'm not a little one!" she shouted in feisty indignation. Well, she looked kind of small to me, but how could I argue, given what she had done?

I pressed on. How had she liked her bicycle journey?

"Good!" she shouted. What she had liked best? "I like riding the ponies!"

Readers probably suspect by now that Robin had not pedaled all this distance alone. This is correct. That's her seven-year old sister, Cheyenne, sitting across the table from her. Cheyenne had pedaled with her. I asked Cheyenne what had been her favorite part of the trip.

"I liked riding the horses," she agreed with her younger sister. So far, they had had two horse-riding excursions - one in Tennessee and the other in Texas. Since entering Alaska, the sisters had also seen a moose, eagles and bears.

Could two girls of such young age really have made such a journey alone?

I must confess... no, they did not pedal alone...

Their five year old sister, Jasmine, pedaled with them. And what had been Jasmine's most memorable experience thus far?

"The sea horses," she answered. "I loved the sea horses. All the colors, the texture..."

These they saw when they stopped at the Monterey Bay Aquarium in Monterey, California.

Okay... the girls' parents came with them and they all rode on one bike, a five-seater. Here they are, all together with their bike and with Carmen, Scot and Metro Cafe. That's their dad, Bill, on the left, and their mom, Amarins, on the right.

The family name may be Harrison, but on this trip they call themselves the Pedouins, which, they explain on their website, is derived from the Arab word Bedouin, "signifying a member of an adventurous family" traveling the continent by bicycle.

They have had adventures and they have met many people, most of them helpful and good. They plan to write about it in a book. Once that book is released, they hope to come back to Wasilla and do a book signing at Metro Cafe.

Many people, such as the dentist seen waving at Robin in picture two, have put them up for a night or two and have fed them. They have been helped in many ways, but on occasion they have met unfriendly people, too. The worst incident happened in Alabama, when they were pedaling up a hill on a four-lane highway in the right hand lane of the two that went up. There was no shoulder so they had to stay on the road, but there was plenty of space for drivers to go around them. Even so, a man driving up that hill grew angry with them. He honked and shouted.

After they topped the hill, they pedaled into a gas station and there he was. He scolded them and called the cops. An officer came, but he took their side, not his.

What they have found on the whole is that truck drivers generally show them the most courtesy. They give them a wide berth and appear to radio ahead to their colleagues so that they can be on the lookout. The most problematic drivers they encounter tend to be driving big RV's. All too often, these are the ones who crowd them the most closely.

Many people honk and wave in a friendly way. Some stop to take their picture, or invite them to dinner.

They have pedaled over mountains ranges and the uphills have grown harder as they have progressed - in part because the girls have grown and their weight has increased. On the downhills, they never let their speed climb above 20 mph. "If we did, we would become just like a runaway train," Amarins explains. "There would be no stopping."

Amarins says they have been most impressed by the magnificent beauty of Alaska. She has visited Wyoming's Grand Teton Mountains, which were breath taking - but Alaska "quardruples that - and we have only seen a little bit of Alaska," she adds.

From Metro, they pedaled off toward Denali - 200 miles, hoping to go 20 miles a day. Many people visit Denali National Park and never see the mountain as it spends so much time buried in the clouds. The Pedouins have already seen it - on a clear day from Anchorage. Before they get to Denali, they are going to make a little detour into Talkeetna. Now, on their behalf, I make a plea to anyone in Talkeetna or who has good relations with any of the mountain flying services that operate out of there.

Think what this family has done! Please, if the weather is suitable, load them into a 185 or 206 or 207 or whatever the hell you've got and fly them up the Ruth Glacier into the Great Gorge. They have come so far - please! Let them see the Great Gorge. Then they will truly see the truth of Amarin's statement about the Grand Tetons, not merely quadrupled, but multiplied ten times over.

After Denali, they will go on to Fairbanks, where their bike journey will end.

Bill and Scot found they had something in common. They both love old cars and machines, particularly machines that transport people from one place to another.

That brings me back to Scot, to the day that I took the picture that opens today's entry as well as this one. Not long before that day, after undergoing more tests than he was comfortable with, Scot and Carmen learned that he has a dangerous - but not unbeatable - colon cancer. Until now, I have been quiet about it but many of their regulars know. On this day, one of them, a church-going Christian man, had given Scot the book that he holds in the hope that it might encourage him.

I have few left and it is hard for even me to get more without paying more than I can afford, but I gave him a copy of Gift of the Whale. I did so because Scot has a long history in the oil fields of the Arctic Slope and operates his own, very successful spill containment business there. An Iñupiat man who is the son of the late Mary Edwardsen, the woman who made the white hunting parka that protected me from the cold for so many seasons before it finally wore out, has often worked with him.

This man respected Scot so much that he secretly had his mother prepare a polar bear ruff for him and then had that ruff delivered to Scot by snowmachine to a camp nearly 200 miles from where Mary had made it.

I figured that if Doug Edwardsen respected Scot that much, then I would give him a copy of my book. Plus, he had brought this fine thing called Metro Cafe into my neighborhood. I wanted him to have the book.

Scot, who is determined to beat his cancer, says it is okay to let people know about his cancer now. Carmen adds that Scot is a fighter and does not give up. She hopes that maybe someone else who has cancer and who feels like giving up can learn about Scot and find more courage to wage his or her own fight.

Scot, sitting where he had told me that he built the stage, but Carmen had created the play.

I should add that Amarins told me that in all her travels across the United States, she had never found a coffee shop to equal Metro in warmth and coziness. "You just don't find something like this," she stressed.

Carmen now carries this token of divine strength with her. It quotes from Psalm 23:

The Lord is my Shepherd, I shall not want.

He makes me lie down in green pastures

and leads me by still waters...

It was a gift to her from her friend, Elaine, who lost both breasts to cancer and carries her own, pink ribbon, pendant.

Scot and Carmen, late last winter, before Scot went in for his first surgery.

Once, as Scot was out of state for medical care, I was in the shop with Carmen and their son Branson, who was still four. Scot called on the phone. Branson talked to his dad.

Carmen shows me - and a young visitor whose name I have forgotten - some of the drawings that she and Scot made as they put together their plan to build Metro Cafe.

Yes, many people have stepped into this stage that Scot made for Carmen. Several of them have appeared in this blog.

There is Sashanna, the 19 year-old barista who uses her earnings to help fund her college courses. This summer, she is taking a creative non-fiction writing course. Last week, she let me read a piece she had written, about rain and how rain not only nourishes the soil and plants, but helps to heal the hurt soul.

I was moved by that piece. When I read it, I knew that, as one way or another we all must, the writer had experienced pain but knew she had to continue on. In the rain, she found the courage to do so.

The fellow she is serving is named Paul, another player on the stage. He is a regular, comes by just about every day. That's all I know about him.

Yesterday, Jobe was carried onto the stage that Scot built for Carmen. He was warmly received...

...by Scot as well as Carmen.

I took this picture in late spring, of Branson as he rode his bike past my rearview mirror. Close to the same time, Scot told me how he planned to teach Branson to drive a snowmachine, because he wanted him to be a responsible driver. He told me how he had discovered a Metro bus, decades old, how he planned to rebuild it.

Two days ago, on my birthday, as I sat at the Metro drive through window, I looked out the passenger window. I saw Scot on his Harley. 

"You look really good," I told him.

"Yes," he answered. "Today."

On Monday, he will go in for his regular Chemo treatment. There is no way to describe that experience, he told me. He will not look so good afterwards. He will feel awful for days. But to survive this cancer, he must survive the chemo. Survive is what he is determined to do.

It was a hot day, so I ordered a raspberry mocha frappe. As it was my birthday, Scot would not let me pay for it - not even with the gift card Funny Face had purchased for me. He pulled out his wallet, removed the few dollars that it would cost and handed the money to Carmen, who stood within the stage that he had built for her. He paid for my frappe.

I think it just may have been the very best frappe I have ever tasted.

I mean it. It was that good.

 

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Thursday
Jul152010

The celebration my family threw for me; afterward, we took a walk in the dog park

After making a quick stop at Metro Cafe, I drove into Anchorage to Jacob, Lavina, Kalib and Jobe's house, as the family had invited me to come in so they could throw a birthday party for me. I arrived a little before 6:00 PM. I found only Margie and Jobe there.

Jobe was snug and happy in the Apache cradle board that his great aunt LeeAnn had made for him before he was born. Hanging on the wall behind is a picture that I took of Kalib, not long after he was born.

Soon, Lavina came walking home from work. She saw me in the window and waved.

Next, Lisa and Bryce arrived with two little boys who Lisa was babysitting for one of the doctors she works with. The older boy was named Jacob and he was frightened of Muzzy - he did not fear that Muzzy would bite him, but rather that he would slobber on him, or perhaps roll on him.

Margie removed Jobe from the cradle and put him on my lap. I told him a series of ridiculous little sentences. Everytime I did, he smiled and even laughed.

That was his birthday present to me.

Next, Charlie and Rex showed up. I felt kind of sad that Melanie would not be here. Regular readers will recall that she is in Donlin Creek, doing work for the engineering company that she works for and she is carrying a slug-loaded shotgun, just in case she is forced to shoot a bear.

She called just before I took this picture. She said she had seen some bears, but only from the helicopter that they had been flying around in. She had seen no bears from the ground and she was not really worried about bears at all, but it did worry her to have to carry the shotgun around.

She had experienced some ridiculously hot weather (yes, Alaska's Interior can get surprisingly hot in the summer - in the 90's. Fort Yukon, where I will be next week, has recorded 101 - and in the winter, -78).

I had hoped that Rex would bring his new girlfriend, but she had gone down to Seward with her parents to do some kayaking. Rex met her a few weeks back after she came out from the San Francisco Bay area to summer in Alaska. Now her parents are here visiting, too.

I am very glad that he has found her.

As for Caleb, he had stayed in Wasilla to sleep and then go to work his nightshift, but, as I noted yesterday, I had seen him in the morning and he had given me the rain fenders for my bike.

I would bring food home for him.

After Jacob and Kalib came home, Jacob went out to the back porch to barbecue our dinner on his and Lavina's new grill. 

Little Anthony and little Jacob - the two boys who Lisa was babysitting - watch a few minutes of Ice Age.

Jacob comes in from the porch with the grilled corn. I tell you - that corn was good! As was the bread, the steaks, the chops, the hot dogs and the salad.

I don't know how it happened, but one bad problem I find with all digital cameras, including the professional models, is that they can change settings all on their own, just because you are moving around. Somehow, my pocket camera had set itself to compensate for whatever exposure I was trying to make by two stops over. I did not discover this until after I took this picture.

I don't feel all that bad about it. The feeling that I wanted to catch is still there. 

What I don't like is the fact that I forgot to recharge the battery to my pocket camera. It was on reserve power when I arrived and I knew the battery would soon die. So I had to shoot sparingly, just to be certain I had a frame or two available for my cake.

"Happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you, happy birthday dear Billy - daddy - grampy, happy birthday to you..."

And here is my cake - Margie baked it and made the frosting. Heavenly, it was just heavenly. Six candles - one for every ten years that I have so far lived.

I could have eaten six such cakes and I would still have wanted more.

Kalib helped me blow out the candles.

Then Kalib brought me the family gift - a hands-free set for my iPhone that will allow me to plug it into the car radio and play music stored in it. Rex gave me some top-of-the line, adjustable walking sticks that can convert into ski poles.

Next, most of us headed to the dog park. My camera battery died before we got there and I was very disappointed, because we went to a lake and I was amazed at how beautiful and still it was, right there in Anchorage. It looked like we were nowhere near the city.

Ducks swam in the lake and repeatedly came right up to the little boys.

Just as we were preparing to leave the lake and move on, a friend of mine happened along. She was taking pictures with her iPhone. I suddenly remembered that I could, too. Yet, even my iPhone battery was almost dead. Still, I would shoot while it lasted.

So the images from here to the end were all done on my iPhone.

"A bear!" Lavina exclaimed when she first spotted this teddy bear laying at the side of the trail.

"A bear? Where?" Jacob responded, then scanned the trees. Bears, grizzlies even, do come into this neighborhood and Muzzy once had a frigthening encounter.

Lavina figured that someone was lonesome for  this little teddy, so she suspended it in the fence in the hope that they would come back looking and would easily spot it.

As we walked, Kalib stopped every 40 or 50 feet to throw a rock into the creek.

In time, we reached the playground. My friend who had been taking iPhone pictures was there. This is she, Kelly Eningowuk of ICC Alaska, with her daughter Mina and dog Alexis. Kelly is the one who found the funds to take me to Greenland. Yes, I still intend to post more from that trip, but mostly I think I will save it for the publication we hope to make.

The thing about this dog park is that dogs are allowed to roam free here. They do not need to be on leashes. This seems like a recipe for big trouble to me, but I saw many dogs and not even one bad incident.

You can see Muzzy in the background.

What do you think he is going to do?

Muzzy charges in, shakes his mane, and throws slobber everywhere. That's what he was going to do. Right after I took this picture, my iPhone battery died.

So I could take no more pictures. This was okay, though. It was after 10:30 PM and I needed to drive back to Wasilla. So I went into the house, hugged everybody goodbye, including my precious wife, who still had two days of babysitting Jobe ahead of her.

Then I drove home alone, under an exquisitely beautiful sky surrounded by magnificent mountains, so strikingly beautiful in the radiant, late-night, northern light of summer.

I could not take a picture, but I did not care.

It was wonderful just to be driving home in the midst of such fantastic, magically-lit, beauty.

Many people wonder why I would ever even want to live in Alaska.

If they could only have seen it!

Even if I had been carrying my best camera and lenses with me, batteries fully charged, I could not have captured such beauty.

Such beauty is beyond the reach of any camera. A good photographer can hint at it, but that's all.

 

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