A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Sunday
Jul042010

ICC Nuuk, Greenland, part 7: On the flight out, the song of a Greenlandic choir slips through my inflight movie headphones

Although I have much left to report from ICC Nuuk and more pictures to display, I must now do it from another place. As you can see, I boarded an Air Greenland Dash 8 turbo-prop and flew out of Nuuk. At first, we went north, to Kangerlussuaq, where the US military once built an airstrip long enough to handle the big jet that I would need to transfer to before I could continue on to Copenhagen.

Looking down at a fjord, near the coast.

The boy who sat in front of me.

This is the jet that I transferred to in Kangerlussuaq.

It was a four-hour plus flight from Kangerlussuaq to Copenhagen and so, after we flew for a bit, I put the headphones on and settled in to watch the inflight movie. About half way through, it seemed to me that I could barely hear the singing of the Greenlandic Choir, Aavaat, who I had enjoyed during the Day of the Seal, as I will yet post.

I did not believe it. I thought it was just music playing in my head, because when I leave a place, the music of that place does always tend to play in my head as I travel.

Yet, muffled though it was by the audio of the movie and the airplane noise, it began to sound real to me. So I removed my headphones.

Sure enough, there was a choir singing, right inside the airplane and it was Aavaat, who had performed so beautifully in Nuuk. Here are some of those who sung.

And here are a few more.

After the plane landed a blonde fellow stood up and he was holding a Yup'ik-style drum from Alaska. It was Christopher Lieu, a Danish musician who has traveled to Alaska many times to perform with Pamyua. He also performed with them in Nuuk.

The drum was made and given to him ten or 11 years ago by Ossie of Pamyua.

I am posting this from inside Terminal 2 of the Copenhagen airport and my laptop battery just went into the red. I had better stop now.

When I bought this computer, they told me the battery would be good for four hours. Ha! It's not even been a full hour.

Really irritating.

Hey! It's the Fourth of July! I am in Denmark, but by evening, I should be back in Wasilla, Alaska, USA. There will be fireworks blowing up.

 

View images as slideshow

Saturday
Jul032010

ICC Nuuk, Greenland, part 6: Seals are butchered, cooked and eaten; then there is song and dance

It was designated "Day of the Seal" here in Nuuk and to commemorate a hunter by the name of Lars, dressed dressed head to toe in seal skin, butchered a seal on the rocky beach at Noorliit. A couple of other hunters did the same, but with much smaller seals. After the butchering, the seals were cooked, both on rocks over an open fire and in kettles, boiled into soup.

Then all of us who had gathered ate the seals and they were very, very, good.

Afterwards, there was singing and dancing, both traditional and modern.

As you might suspect, I took many pictures and I suspect that I have several worthy of presentation here and I do want to show them to you, but it is 4:01 AM and pretty soon I have to pack my bag and head to the airport, to begin the long series of flights home, to be interrupted by a short night in Copenhagen, which right now I wish I could just skip and head straight for Alaska.

So I am going to hold off until I get home and then I will finish my ICC series there, sitting in my office, working on my much faster desktop computer there. This laptop is a wonder, but it can also be a frustrating pain when it gets bogged down while editing and processing high-resolution RAW photo files. Once I get a little rest and start up again, it will probably take me a couple of days to do so; maybe three.

I will then show you more of the Day of the Seal, and will finally do a good wrap-up that explains the Nuuk Declaration of 2010 and I will also present a better history of the ICC and a run-down of the issues the indigenous people of the Inuit circumpolar north face.

Doing the Greenlandic Polka under a beautiful open sky on a mostly sunny Day of the Seal here in Nuuk, Greenland.

I wish that I could stay another week and do whatever I want to do, but I can't. I must go home now.

I would like to say that I'll come back one day, but one never knows about such things.

 

View as slides

Friday
Jul022010

ICC Nuuk, Greenland, part 5: A break with Igloolik's Arctic Circus before I do an ICC wrap-up

Last night, after the delegations from Russia, Alaska, Canada and Greenland had ratified the Nuuk Declaration of 2010, elected Aqqaluk Lynge of Greenland to be the ICC Chair and had chosen Canada to host the next General Assembly in four years, they gathered for a farewell feast.

The after-dinner entertainment was provided by Artcirq - or Arctic Circus - from the Canadian High Arctic Community of Igloolik. According the Artcirq website, Igloolik, population 1500, suffers a suicide rate of four to six young adults every year. 

Artcirq was formed in response as a way to present young people with something that was fun and healthy, as an alternative to substance abuse and suicide.

Based upon acrobatics, juggling and clowning as has been traditionally practiced in Inuit culture, a group of youth formed a circus and then went to Montreal for professional training at the National Circus School. They have since performed in many Arctic Communities.

As for me, I need to figure out how to cover a few of the cultural events taking place here in Nuuk today as well as how to explain the Nuuk Declaration and prepare a wrap up from the thousands and thousands and thousands of words and statements that I have gathered and the two or three or four thousand images or so that I have shot.

I am suffering from a severe lack of sleep and horrible chest and sinus congestion that at times seems to border on pneumonia, so it is going to be a bit of a challenge, but one way or another, I will do it.

Thursday
Jul012010

ICC Nuuk, Greenland, part 4: Stories, both ancient and new, are carried in the songs of the people

Hivshu Robert Peary began his life in Siorapaluk, Greenland, the northernmost community in the world and when he speaks of his people's history he makes clear the ties that bind one people spread across so vast a distance as the Arctic of Russia, Alaska, Canada and Greenland. He tells of a time when his ancestors were living near where the village of Kaktovik, Alaska, sits today when they divided up to fish for arctic char and salmon. A group that he refers to as "The Elders" began to move east until they reached Greenland.

white They brought their songs and dances, some of which are still performed today in each nation.

"I was raised up among hunters, telling me the stories, and then the white man took me away from my parents when I was 9 years old," Hivshu says. He was first sent to a boarding school not too far from the village, but at the age of 12 was sent to Denmark.  "They were trying to teach me the life of the man." Hivshu questioned what he was being taught should replace his own life. "I was trying to tell teachers, 'you were teaching us from one man's way of understanding. My knowlege and wisdom is 50,000 years old from my ancestors.'

"'I am trying to tell you that but you don't believe me, you want to stick with the book and tell what it is about. When it is not right, I cannot take it as something I want to keep, so you keep it, I go home, be among the people, my people, learn more about the wisdom of life, because I was supposed to tell the stories and sing the songs.'"

When he first learned to dance as a young man, Hivshu, who is now 54, kept it secret, but then decided he needed to go before the very people who had sought to take his culture from him.

"I began to understand that the white man never understood our dance. It is very important for me to tell the white man why we are doing that. We are not cultural clowns. When they want festivites, to have entertainment, 'you entertain us and we'll eat.' I don't do that. You can get some other people who are entertaining.'

"'I am telling about life. I'm telling and dancing and singing about life. It's too important for me. When you are eating, just talking to each other. It will be like I am talking to no one at all. If you are not listening, I go. Try another to entertain you while you are eating.'"

In 1999, Hivshu met "some scientists" from the University of Copenhagen who wanted to rewrite a book about his people that was done in the 1930's. He told them the book was not accurate. They asked him to spend a year-and-half working with them, but he told them a year-and-half would not belong enough.

In 2002, he began to work with the scholars on the book. He is living in Sweden to complete the book, because, he says, if he goes home he will be out hunting and fishing and will never get it written.

Hivshu gets his name from his great-grandfather, the polar explorer Admiral Robert E. Peary, who had two son's with Hivshu's great-grandmother.

After he danced, Hivshu spotted a young man named Shane from Canada's Northwest Territories who he had seen perform the night before with the Inuvialuit Drummers Dancers. He walked over to him and draped his arm over his shoulder. "I'm proud of you," he said. "He's young, look at him. He's young,  keeping our traditions and songs and dances. He's a perfect example of young people trying their best to keep our ancestors way of life. Eighteen years old and he wants to dance his way of life, to understand life is dancing and singing. and telling the people, the beautiful dances of our people, our ancestors, life and universe.:

"That's my culture," Shane beamed. "It was my grandfather's that made me start dancing. I love it."

Shane, performing with the Inuvialuit Drummers and Dancers.

Inuivialuit drummer, Phillip Elanik.

The Kuugmiut Dancers from Wainwright, Alaska - Betty Ann Bodfish, Ardyce Nayakik, Iqaluk Nayakik and her very popular daughter, Raquel.

McRidge Nayakik and Iqaluk Nayakik, Kuugmiut Dancers, Wainwright. 

Jimmy Kagak drums for Kuugmiut Dancers. 

After their performances, Wainwright and Inuvialuit gathered together in the middle of floor to do an invitational dance. All present were invited to join them.

In this picture there are faces from Russia, Alaska, Canada and Greenland, all dancing together.

Three Russian Inuit girls, dancing in front of the Wainwright Drums.

Afterward, Hanne Qvist and Leif Immanuelson of Nuuk performed on the fiddle and according. Leif is originally from Kangersuatsiaq in north Greenland and only recently moved to Nuuk. He learned to play the accordion as child and notes that there are several accordion and fiddle players from his village.

The instruments were introduced to them by commercial whale hunters. "They wanted to teach us how to polka," he explains. Even as the whale hunters introduced the new instruments, a zealous priest went through the village, gathered up all the Inuit drums and burned them.

Leif is proud that, at this ICC, he beat his traditional drum in the opening ceremonies. When he first learned to drum, he would perform only with a mask on his face. "Now I am more confident. I drum in the open," he says.

Soon, many in the crowd spun about the floor in a vigorous square dance.

Jack Hopstad, fiddler - Alaska's Kuskowkwim Fiddle Band. Here, he plays the lonesome "Eagle Island Blues," an Athabascan love song written by a trapper wintering on the Yukon River's Eagle Island. He is missing the woman he loves.

As I listened to the longing that came out of Jack's fiddle, I found myself missing her, too.

Three little girls, loving the Kuskokwim Fiddle Band.

Anthony Shields, base guitarist for the Kuskokwim Fiddle Band.

Kuskokwim Fiddle Band lead guitarist Bobby Gregory puts his whole soul into the classic, "Take the Ribbon From Your Hair." Each time he repeated the verse,

I don't care what's right or wrong, 
I don't try to understand.
Let the devil take tomorrow. 
Lord, tonight I need a friend...

he brought the crowd to a cheering scream.

When he sang it, everyone could understand.

 

View as slideshow

Wednesday
Jun302010

ICC Nuuk, Greenland, part 3: Streets of Nuuk; the floor of the General Assembly; Inuit Opera singers Heinrich and Josefsen; Pamyua and Canadian throat singers together

The streets of Nuuk:

I think it is time to give readers some idea of what Nuuk looks like. I have had little time to wander around and explore as I would like, but I have managed to take a few pictures of the community as I have walked back to my hotel late at night from the cultural entertainment.

I am trying a little experiment here. While I have only posted two pictures from my walk here in the main blog body, if you click the Nuuk walk link below it will take you to a nine image slideshow. The same is true for the other three segments of this post: the ICC General Assembly floor, the Greenlandic Inuit opera singer and Pamyua, performing with Canadian throat singers. 

Each has a link that opens up to a slide show with several more images.

A young girl manipulates her cell phone while skateboarding through the streets of Nuuk.

See more of my walk through Nuuk in this slideshow.


From the floor of the General Assembly

A very serious agenda is unfolding on the floor of the 2010 General Assembly of the Inuit Circumpolar Council, under the overall theme of "Inoqatigiinneq-Sharing Life." Today, Edward Itta, Mayor of Alaska's North Slope Borough and the President of the Alaska delegation is conducting the meeting. Here, as delegates from Alaska, Russia, Canada and Greenland listen, he calls today's General Assembly to order.

Before I came to Greenland, I had it in my mind that each day I would sum up all that was said on this floor, but I find that the only way I could intelligently do that is to give that task my full attention and take few if any photos - alone edit and post them. As it is, I am already spending more than half my time doing work other than taking photos and I don't even have the time to give the photos that I do take a good close look and edit.

So I think I will hold off and at the end, after the General Assembly adopts the Nuuk Declaration of 2010, I will try to communicate the essence of it. For now, I will focus my efforts on getting pictures and posting a few, which is proving to be an enormous task in itself.

National leaders have come from all the modern nations whose boundaries encompass the ancient homeland of the Inuit and many issues are being discussed - from the impacts of global warming (and here, in the Far North, where a declining ice pack is already drastically changing the way people live, it is seen as real and present danger), to economic development and resource extraction, improving the health of the people and many more issues.

At 81, Paul John, Yup'ik of Southwest Alaska, is the oldest delegate on the floor. 

The Greenlandic and Canadian Executive Council members. Left to right is Aqqaluk Lynge, Carl Chr. Olsen of Greenland and Violet Ford and Duane Smith of Canada.

The Russian and American Executive Council Members: Valentina Leonova and Tatiyana Achirgina of Russia; Willie Goodwin, Jim Stotts and Mayor Edward Itta of Alaska.

Maliina Abelsen of Greenland speaks about health issues, including healing from alcohol and drug abuse.

The highest ranking official to show up from the federal government of the United States has been Dr. Kerri-Ann Jones, the Assistant Secretary of State for Ocean and International Environment and Scientific Affairs. Dr. Jones works just below Interior Secretary Hilary Clinton.

After she addressed the General Assembly, she met with the Alaska delegates in their caucus. She received both praise and hard questions - the praise being that relations between the indigenous people of the Arctic and the federal government seem to be improving with the new administration of Barack Obama.

Even so, the Iñupiat and Yup'ik of Alaska stated that they must be more fully included in the establishment of US Arctic policy.

ICC Assembly chair Jim Stotts of Alaska addresses Assistant Secretary Jones.

See more from the GA floor in this 12-image slide show

 

Inuit opera singers

Two Greenlandic Inuit opera singers, Ida Heinrich and Josef L. Josefson, wait to perform at a reception hosted by the Greenlandic delegation. They sang two Greenlandic songs, Pigaaara Illunni Asslt an Illaanni Unnulermatt and it was exquisitely beautiful.

Ida Heinrich, back up by members of the men's chorus Qissiat, which means "driftwood."

See more of the Opera singers in this nine-image slide show

 

Pamyua with Canadian throat singers

Karina Moeller and Pamyua put on an energetic performance before an equally charged audience, as you can see in the slide show.

Pamyua was joined onstage by Akinisie Sivuarapik and Sylvia Cloutier of Canadian Throatsingers Aqsarniit.

I have many more performances, by artists of all four nations and will post them as I find the time. I need an assistant!

See more of Pamyua and the throat singers in this 17-image slide show