A blog by Bill Hess

Running Dog Publications

P.O. Box 872383 Wasilla, Alaska 99687

 

All photos and text © Bill Hess, unless otherwise noted 
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Wasilla

Wasilla is the place where I have lived for the past 29 years - sort of. The house in which my wife and I raised our family sits here, but I have made my rather odd career as a different sort of photojournalist by continually wandering off to other places to photograph people and gather information, which I have then put together in various publications that have served the Alaska Native Eskimo, Indian and Aleut communities.

Although I did not have a great of free time to devote to this rather strange community, named after a Tanaina Athabascan Indian chief who knew Wasilla in the way that I so impossibly long to, I have still documented it regularly over the past quarter-century plus. In the early days, my Wasilla photographs focused mostly upon my children and the events they participated in - baseball, football, figure skating, hockey, frog catching, fire cracker detonation, Fourth of July parade - that sort of thing. 

In 2002, I purchased my first digital camera and then, whenever I was home, I began to photograph Wasilla upon a daily basis, but not in a conventional way. These were grab shots - whatever caught my eye as I took my many long walks or drove through the town, shooting through the car window at people and scenes that appeared and disappeared before I could even focus and compose in the traditional photographic way.

Thus, the Wasilla portion of this blog will be devoted both to the images that I take as I wander about and those that I have taken in the past. Despite the odd, random, nature of the images, I believe they communicate something powerful about this town that I have never seen expressed anywhere else. 

Wasilla is a sprawling community that has been slapped down hodge-podge upon what was so recently wilderness of the most exquisite beauty. In its design, it is deliberately anti-zoned, anti-planned. In the building of Wasilla, the desire to make a buck has trumped aesthetics and all other considerations. This town, built in the midst of exquisite beauty, has largely become an unsightly, unattractive, mess of urban sprawl. Largely because of this, it often seems to me that Wasilla is a community with no sense of community, a town devoid of town soul.

Yet - Wasilla is my home and if I am lucky it will be until I grow old and die. Despite its horrific failings, it is still made of the stuff of any small city: people; moms and dads, grammas and grampas, teens, children, churches, bars, professionals, laborers, soldiers, missionaries, artists, athletes, geniuses, do-gooders, hoodlums, the wealthy, the homeless, the rational and logical, the slightly insane and the wholly insane - and, yes, as is now obvious to the whole world, politicians, too.

So perhaps, if one were to search hard enough, it might just be possible to find a sense of community here, and a town soul. So, using my skills as a photojournalist and a writer, I hope to do just that. If this place has a sense of community, I will find it. If there is a town soul to Wasilla, I will document it. I won't compete with the newspapers. Hell no! But as time and income allow, it will be fun to wander into the places where the folks described above gather, and then put what I find on this blog.

 

by 300...

Anywhere within a 300 mile radius of Wasilla. This encompasses perhaps the most wild, dramatic, gorgeous, beautiful section of land and sea to be found in any comparable space anywhere on Earth. I can never explore it all, but I will do the best that I can, and will here share what I find and experience with you.  

and then some...

Anywhere else in the world that I happen to get to, such as Point Lay, Alaska; Missoula, Montana; Serenki, Chukotka, Russia; or Bangalore, India. Perhaps even Lagos, Nigeria. I have both a desire and scheme to get me there. It is a long shot. We shall see if I succeed.

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Thursday
Jun242010

I dine with Carl and the Gulls

When I opened up the refrigerator last night, I could see nothing that I wanted to pull out and make dinner of. Yes, if Margie had been home she could surely have made something from what was there and if Jacob and Lavina had been visiting, they could have put together a concoction worthy of Iron Chef, but Margie was at their house, babysitting Jobe and I could see nothing to fix.

So I decided to go to Carl's Jr. and buy a hamburger. Not a meal, just a hamburger, with water on the side.

That's exactly what I ordered, but after the guy on the intercom gave me the total, I suddenly decided that I wanted a taste of french fry, so I had him add a side.

My intent was to eat only a few fries, as I just did not need a whole small serving.

So, what was I to do with the rest?

I had just pulled off to the side to eat when the answer came to me in the form of a seagull. I held out a fry. The seagull studied it.

Seagull comes down to check out my fry.

Hmmm... this fry looks pretty good!

I think I'll try it!

Got it! Damn good, too!

 

Now I must confess to have taken a few liberties above, as what you see is not one sequence of a gull swooping in to grab a fry. I was shooting with my pocket camera and it does not have the capability to shoot consecutive frames fast enough to catch such a sequence.

In truth, many gulls had come to share my fries and each time one came to get one, I could shoot one frame and one frame only.

Now, if you would like to see the images larger and in slide show format, click below:

 

View as Slide Show.

 

And tomorrow morning, I leave for Nuuk, Greenland, to blog the General Assembly of the four nation Inuit Circumpolar Council - that's Russia (Chukotka), the US (Alaska), Canada and Greenland. I invite you all to tag along. My route will take me through Copenhagen, Denmark, where I will overnight. I will drop in short posts along the way. 

In advance, let me thank ICC Alaska, for teaming up with me to pick up my travel, lodging and dining expense, so that we can do this project together.

Wednesday
Jun232010

Feeling over-burdened and overwhelmed, I take a 12-mile walk in Wasilla's magnificent back yard

On Monday morning, I wrote in here that I had a great deal to do before I leave for Greenland early Friday and would likely post lightly all week. Shortly after I made that post, I was thinking about all that I face and all that I must do. I thought, too, of the summer that I have always imagined that I will one day take - the summer that I don't really travel that far from home, but just spend the entire time living as I see fit - hiking, canoeing, camping, working my way into the mountains, up and down the rivers and sometimes perhaps out onto the ocean waters to snatch up a halibut, to ride a wave by surfboard.

And flying of course, always flying, because this is country that one must fly about to really see. And I just love to fly. 

Not so long ago, I had imagined that I might make this summer half-way that - get some good work that would take me out into the field and spend half the summer doing that, then spend the other half wandering about this area, doing just as I have described above and blogging about it.

The latter part was all fantasy. That surfing trip I was going to take to Yakutak on my birthday, July 14? 

It ain't going to happen. I've just got to get out there and work my tail off if we are to survive. Once I leave for Greenland, I expect to be traveling into the fall, with only short breaks at home and little time for play.

Fortunately, I love the work that I do, but still, sometimes, I just want to get out and play and make my play my work. And I don't see any good reason why I shouldn't be able to, but I just can't seem to make it happen.

Yet, the weather was beautiful Monday. With all that I needed to do before I leave for Greenland, with all the burdens that now sit atop me, some of which readers may have an idea about and at least one, big, huge, one that they don't, which I will one day write up but can't just yet, I decided to take advantage of this one, beautiful, day, chuck all my responsibilities and go take a walk up in the Talkeetna Mountains.

As I had but one afternoon, I chose a trailhead of easy access - Gold Mint, in the Hatcher Pass area.

So I drove there, parked my car and hit the trail.

This is what I saw before me as I started to walk. As you can see, it is country of the most wild and dangerous nature, ready to smite down the ill-prepared and weak at a moment's notice, without mercy.

It is the kind of Alaska country in which only the toughest, most fit and daring of individuals dare tread, because it will surely kill the weak and unsavy.

I had gone but a few hundred yards when I saw these tough, fit, daring, intrepid individuals coming in the opposite direction.

"Sorry to ruin your picture," one of the young mothers apologized.

"You didn't ruin it," I assured her. "You gave it human perspective."

The fact is, I would not have even taken it had they not appeared to be in it.

Soon, I came upon another group of people with children and a toddler in a stroller, walking ahead of me.

I quickly overtook and passed them. After I passed, I turned, introduced myself, told them about this blog and how to find it and shot a couple of photos. It turns out this was the Wilkins and the Wilsons and maybe a couple of other names thrown in, too. They live right here in Wasilla, but this was was their first time ever to hike the Gold Mint Trail. They planned to reach the two-mile post and then turn around.

I wonder if they made it?

Before it reaches the two mile marker, the trail narrows and steepens and many rocks protrude from it. It could be a challenge to push or drag a baby stroller up it.

Still, I have no doubt at all that if Jake had set out to take Kalib to the two mile-post when he was in a stroller, he would have done so. In fact, I think maybe he did, when I was recovering from my shoulder injury and unable to accompany them on such a hike.

A bit further up, I met a dog coming the other way. The dog is Kiska and, according to her human, has made many hikes up Gold Mint and will in the future as well. She wanted me to make certain that readers understood that Kiska is an Alaskan Malemute - not a husky.

She doesn't like it when people mistake her Malemute for a husky.

So here she is, Kiska, the Alaskan Malemute, frequent hiker of the Gold Mint Trail.

About a mile or so up, there is a beaver damn with two beaver houses, one large and one small, built in the placid waters behind it. When I came around the corner where that dam and pond come into view, a husky stood atop the largest house.

The husky was traveling with two other dogs and a small group of humans.

If I had been carrying one of my DSLR's, I could have taken a picture of that husky atop the beaver house, but by the time I could pull my pocket camera out of my pocket, turn it on and then wait for it to cycle itself into shooting mode, the husky had jumped off the house, swam to the shore and then all three dogs were bouncing about all around me and against me and all were soaking wet.

They shook their fur and sprayed me with water. I had to protect my camera, but I did manage to shoot this frame.

As one moves forward up Gold Mint, the trail grows ever steeper and more narrow, and people fewer. So I hiked on, listening to the calls of birds. Then I heard the sound of distant jets, roaring mysteriously from high in the sky. I scanned the patches of blue ahead of where the sound seemed to originate and then I spotted these four jets, seen here as tiny white specks, zipping towards the clouds.

If I had had one of my big DSLR's and a good telephoto, it would have made a really neat picture.

But I had chosen to keep the hike light and simple, and so had only the pocket camera. As much as I would have liked to have gotten that good picture of these four military jets appearing so white, up in the blue, racing toward white, I don't regret my decision.

Even the best photo is only impression of the instant that appeared before the camera.

This photo is an impression of the impression that I might have captured had I been with better equipment. As such an impression, it will do just fine.

I hiked on until finally I was far enough up the trail that I quit seeing so many people and dogs and no babies in strollers at all. Don't misunderstand - I am very happy for all those people to be able to come out and enjoy, same as me, and I love the fact that there are parents who love their children enough to take them out and expose them to the country even when they are tiny and in strollers.

Still, I like solitude, and solitude is what I sought.

Soon I had it.

Solitude.

My mind went over many things. It wrestled with many problems. It put those problems into a different perspective than it would have, had I stayed down below. There is one project that I have already put considerable time and effort into, over a period of years, but had pretty much decided was worthless, going nowhere, and that I might as well waste no more time on it.

In the midst of this solitude, as my muscles worked and the fresh mountain air flooded my lungs and invigorated my blood, a new approach to that project came into my head. I decided to give it another go.

Not complete solitude. Somewhere between mile posts four and five, I came upon Kate, another seeker of solitude. She had ascended, and now she was descending.

As you can see, the clouds are gathering and thickening.

Not far beyond Kate, I came to a place where the trail comes right to the edge of the creek, which readers already know much further downstream as the Little Susitna River.

I decided that I wanted to take a picture of a certain mountain from a very low angle, with my camera held just above the surface of the flowing water.

So I positioned myself among some rocks at the edge of the creek, leaned over a fairly large one, braced myself, reached out, and concentrated on positioning my camera just above the water without getting it wet.

As I concentrated on this task, I heard the sound of footsteps in the rocks, coming toward me, toward the creek. I heard a laugh. I did not turn to look, but kept my concentration on my task.

Then I heard a female voice say, "Oops! I don't want to ruin your picture."

"You won't ruin my picture," I said. "Just go ahead and do whatever you want to do."

"Okay," she said and she did.

Finally, I looked up from my camera and saw this 20-year old woman, Kelly, filling her water bottle. Once she had filled it, she stood up and we chatted for one minute, maybe less, then she left to catch up with her two friends.

I returned to my photo, but I like the one of Kelly filling her water bottle better. In fact, the one I worked so hard to get proved to be pretty worthless, so I didn't bother to include it here.

By the time that I had passed Mile Post 5, I could see rain in the clouds ahead. I knew that rain was going to get me. I didn't really care. I'd rather stay dry, but if I got wet, even if I got soaked and cold, I would still complete the hike, I would be okay and it would just be part of the experience.

I saw a flying bug land upon a white flower. I stopped to take a picture. As I did, I felt a raindrop fall upon my neck.

Soon, it was raining and the rain fell hard. In the six months since Melanie and Charlie gave it to me, this poor little s90 pocket camera that I have kept with me at all times has taken one heck of a beating. The mechanics remain good, but the optical qualities are diminishing, because the lens surface is so tiny, so impossible to properly clean.

I did not want to damage it further, so I shut it off and tucked it safely into my pocket, then hiked on, through the rain. It was cold, but my body was hot from the hiking. I did not mind the feel of cold rain striking me.

In a bit, the intensity of the rain dropped off. I saw three people ahead of me. They appeared to have stopped to wait out the downfall. I was quite certain one was Kelly.

Sure enough, it was Kelly. She was with her friend, Allison, age 25 and Matt, 26. They are all from Anchorage, but all have hiked in this area a number of times before. They were relieved to see that the rain was easing off, and that nothing bad seemed to be following it.

They had decided that this was as far as they would hike. Now they were going to turn back.

I knew that I had to turn around soon, too, but I wanted to reach Mile Post 6, so that I could make a good 12 mile hike out of the day.

They told me to have fun and we parted company - they going downhill, me up.

As I climbed further, I got to where the bushes crowded the trail. The bushes had captured much of the rain in their leaves and branches and were now like paintbrushes, painting me and my clothing, especially my Levi's, with rain water.

I finally decided that I had been painted enough; I knew Mile Post 6 - assuming Mile Post 6 had been planted - had to be very close. I had already spent considerably more time walking from Mile Post 5 than I had between any other two Mile Posts.

I looked at the trail ahead of me. The water laden bushes pressed hard against it.

I decided that was good enough. I turned around and headed back.

A ways down the trail, I stopped at a beaver dam. A beaver came out and splashed the water for me.

Somewhere between Mile Posts 5 and 4, I decided to eat my lunch. Peanut Butter and honey. It was good. I drank down a bottle of water, and finished off some gummy cherry candies that I had also brought. I did not eat my apple, because this was enough to cause me to feel full.

Somewhere between Mile Posts Three and Two, I came upon this fellow, Stafford, pausing to rest with his bicycle. It must be a pretty hard grind, I commented, pushing a bike up this mountain trail. Yes, he said, but the coming down part was so easy, fast and fun that it was worth it.

I imagined what could happen if one lost control of bike coming down some of the steep, rocky places.

"I imagine it gets kind of scary sometimes, too," I said.

"I've got good brakes," he said. "You've got to have good brakes."

"How far are you going?" I asked.

"Until 7:00," he said. "Then I am going to turn around."

I looked at the clock on my iPhone. There is no reception up here, but the iPhone clock still works - as does the compass. He had less than 20 minutes to go.

As I walked along somewhere between Mile Posts 2 and one, Stafford suddenly came flying by me. "Eight minutes from just above mile 3 to here!" he shouted. "That's why I bring my bike up!" He disappeared.

I must try it one day.

Shortly after that, I came to the bridge that spans the Little Su. This meant that I was almost to the parking lot - yet, my severely out of shape body and legs had grown tired and weary. It felt like that parking lot was still a long ways away.

When I came to this broad, graveled stretch of trail, my mind knew the hike was almost over. Yet, in some ways, this was the hardest part. I knew that as soon as I went around the turn you see ahead, I would see the outhouse, and beyond that the parking lot and my car.

It didn't feel like it, though. It felt like I had miles and miles to go. It felt as though I could walk and walk and walk and never round that corner and see the parking lot.

Yet, I did round that corner. Right there in front of me was the outhouse, and just beyond that, the parking lot. And there was my red Ford Escape.

Sitting between me and the Ford Escape was this young couple and their dog, Ambrosias. They called me over to talk. They wanted to know how far I had hiked, and what they might expect to find if they went hiking the same way.

So I told them and then I drove home, where Margie fed me left-overs from Father's Day - fried chicken, corn on the cob, mashed potatoes and strawberry short cake.

I hate to admit it, but I am growing old. I will be 60 in less than a month. When will I get the chance to live always as I want, on my own terms, hiking, boating, canoeing, flying, moving about the country?

Should that time ever come, will I still be young enough, strong enough, to do it?

Yet, I am fortunate. Given all the things that have happened to her health wise, including her series of broken knees, this kind of thing is impossible for my wife. She will never experience a day such as I had here again.

So I am fortunate, yet unfortunate, for I wish Margie could sometimes experience it with me.

Not always. Sometimes, I just like to venture out alone. But there are times when I would really like to have her with me, but she can never come along.

 

Note: Thinking it might be a neat thing to allow viewers who want to be able to see the images from a post in a slide show, I created one in Squarespace's gallery feature. Unfortunately, the Squarespace interface does not have the tools to make it look nice, but the link below will take you to it such as it is. Perhaps in the future, if I can learn enough about CSS, I might be able to make nicer looking slide shows.

Here is the link to this first, crude, attempt:

View as slideshow

Tuesday
Jun222010

Anchorage's M.A. Hot Dogs Mike Anderson head to be burned by L.A. Laker Cap; Hot Dog Jeep driver gains no advantage

My last stop in Anchorage was Stewart's Photo and when I stepped out the door, I felt pretty hungry. I had been wondering where I should pick up lunch before heading home, but suddenly my nose was struck by the wonderful aroma of hot dogs and onions on the grill.

The scent came from M.A. Hot Dogs, an outdoor stand that operates only during the time of light. All indecision left me - I knew that was where I had to go. There is no lunch to be had in Anchorage that I enjoy more than M.A. Hot Dogs. M.A. has reindeer dogs, M.A. has beef dogs, M.A. has Polish dogs, Kosher dogs, all cooked just like you see here and all, oh, so good!

The guy behind me ordered his reindeer dog with no onions.

"You want no onions, tripled?" owner Mike Anderson asked him. "Okay, that'll be no onions, tripled."

The guy, who appeared to be a tourist, looked flummoxed. "No," he protested. "I don't want the onions tripled. I want no onions at all."

"Right," Anderson agreed, "no onions tripled."

The guy didn't get it, but he didn't get onions, either, so I hope he was happy.

Another guy asked Anderson who he had betted on during the NBA playoffs, the Boston Celtics or the L.A. Lakers. Anderson answered that he was going to have to wear a Laker cap for a full-day. He had no choice. You lose a bet, you lose a bet. "That's going to burn a hole right through my head," he said.

About that time, these two little dogs came walking by as another observed from a parked truck.

I should note that Anderson has sign posted under his umbrella boasting that his hot dogs have been voted best in Anchorage, by M.A. Hot Dogs.

After I left M.A. Hot Dogs, still savoring my lunch, I traveled west down Fourth Avenue toward Cook Inlet for a couple of blocks, then took a left until I came to Sixth Avenue, then turned east onto the three one-way lanes to begin the drive back to Wasilla. 

I had barely entered the middle lane on Sixth when this pretty red jeep raced up behind me, practically ran atop my bumper, then careened around me to the right. The driver then shot past me and jerked into the small space that separated me from the driver ahead. In an instant, he was on that driver's tail and then he careened around him as well.

I watched in amazement, wondering why no cop ever seems to be present when this kind of thing is happening, as he careened, weaved and jerked his way through the traffic ahead, charging back and forth across all three lanes of traffic.

But you know what? Without ever speeding up or doing anything to try to cut the distance between us, but just riding with traffic, I found myself right alongside him about two miles down the road and took this picture.

What this image does not show is that the driver is swaying from the left to the right in his lane, looking for the next chance to careen his way around somebody and blast forward. I am now in the left lane, he is in the middle.

He has been driving like this for two miles or so and has gained no advantage.

Finally, he gets his break, races around the pickup truck and speeds ahead of all the rest of us. If you were to click on this picture and blow it up, you would barely be able to make out a traffic light up ahead. The light was red when I reached it and, yes, there was this guy, sitting there waiting, just one car length ahead of me.

When the light turned green, he shot off again, zagging, zigging, doing all that he could to pass everyone whom it was possible to pass. When we reached the next light, same thing - there he was, one car length ahead.

The next light was the last traffic light in Anchorage, so I thought maybe he would now zoom down the highway, zigging in and out of traffic and finally leave me behind.

This didn't happen. Not far down the road, he took an exit off the highway into an Anchorage neighborhood. By now, I had observed his antics for a good four miles or more and he had gained no practical advantage at all - maybe two car lengths, max.

 

ps: The Gold Mint hike is still coming - Wednesday, not later than noon. I hope.

Tuesday
Jun222010

To the folks I met while hiking on Gold Mint Trail...

I am running behind and am in Anchorage at the moment, but I will post the pictures of each of you that I met and photographed on the trail, dogs included. Please check back tomorrow. The pix should be up by then.

 

Monday
Jun212010

A spider escapes to spin its web; we eat breakfast as a train rolls by

I leave for Nuuk, Greenland in less than four days and I have a great deal to do between now and then, so I suspect that I will be blogging lightly for the rest of the week - although one never knows for sure with me.

So I won't write much about Kalib or about any of these pictures. As you can see, he is playing in the yard. What more do you need to know?

I suppose it would be helpful to know that these images were taken Father's Day afternoon, this one shortly after Kalib's dad fired up the grill.

Lavina and Melanie than set out to cook bread on the coals, and peppers, too.

Here is the bread and peppers - Apache style bread, of course. It turned out excellent.

This was the first time I had ever seen Jobe eat solid food; I think it might have even been the first time that he ever did. Lavina or Jacob will correct me if I am wrong. He ate beef. Margie noted a study that she had read about that indicated that when a baby eats beef for his first solid meal, it helps further that baby's brain development.

Rex brought a piece of art work with him that he was very proud of. He has been working on some kind of project to renovate a day care center and a five year-old girl who is a student there has become very fond of him. She was sad when he had to go, so she gave him these pieces of art that she had made especially for him.

Okay - left to right: Kalib, Jobe, Jobe, Lafe, Kalib.

After we had eaten, Kalib went out into the front yard to play in the dirt and I followed, to make certain that he did not run into the road when a car was coming. Later, his dad came out and found a nice little critter to show him.

The critter escaped and ran up his dad's arm.

This is the critter - a spider and a rather cute one at that.

Kalib scrutinizes the spider as it dangles beneath Jacob's hand from a string of web.

In the evening, as usual, everybody left. Muzzy would run for the first block.

I had planned to drive Margie into Anchorage this morning so that she could begin her week of baby-sitting Jobe. Jacob called just as we were about to leave and said Lavina would be working at home today and so I did not need to bring Margie in until tomorrow.

Instead, I took her to Mat-Su Valley Family Restaurant, where we had the first of what should be several free breakfasts.

Yesterday J2KLM2 Hess gave me a $100 gift certificate to Family Restaurant for Fathers Day.

J2 = Jacob and Jobe, K = Kalib, L = Lavina, M2 = Muzzy and Martigne.

As we were sitting there, eating our free breakfast, the train came rolling by.

It was thrilling. How could the breakfast experience get any better than this?